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Need help with mis at idle

MVU2ORC

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Temecula, CA
Hello everyone. I have a 2001 xj with a rebuilt engine (approximately) 10000 mile on it. Ever since the rebuild I have had a rough idle and suffer from poor fuel economy. Here is a list of what I have checked replaced so far.
New plugs, coil pack and injectors at the time of rebuild.
Cam shaft sensor synced at the dealer.
New idle air controller
Map Sensor 0" 4.56, 5" 3.91, 10" 3.03, 20" 1.45, 21" 1.1
Throttle position sensor was within spec at time of test but I don't remember the numbers.
Compression test over 165 in all cylinders
Leak down test 5% drop in cylinders 1 and 2. 2% drop in cylinders 3-6
Resistance test from PCM driver wire to pin 2 of injectors: cylinder 1 injector 0.4, 2 0.2, 3 0.2, 4 0.2, 5 0.3, 6 0.1
 
Vacuum test feel off the initial post. 15.5-16.5 at idle. did a smoke test and got smoke out the throttle body rod. Replaced the o rings and rod, seemed to help. Also new fuel pump and and crankshaft position sensor
 
Two things to look at, first did you use Mopar parts? Second I would take a good look at your wiring harness.
 
Do you have an OBD-II scanner or APP with live data ?

What brand of O2 sensors are installed, and 2x on the genuine Jeep OBD engine sensors ?
 
I don't have a OBD II scanner, just a code reader. One shop put two scopes on it and did not find anything. I used the NTK o2 sensors, not sure on the crank sensor. Not sure I under stand the second part referring to the genuine jeep obd engine sensor
 
...... Not sure I under stand the second part referring to the genuine jeep obd engine sensor

Most auto parts stores sell cheap crappy Chinese made parts, some that even come with a "Lifetime Warranty". These parts are poorly manufactured and/or made from inferior materials. They are often out of specification, or even failed, right out of the box. The ones that are not faulty many times will have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top quality replacement parts and genuine Jeep engine sensors.

Numerous threads detail long and frustrating searches for a "problem" that ended up being cured simply with genuine Jeep engine sensors.

Cheap parts are cheap for a reason.
 
Is it a single cylinder misfire? To test this, unplug one injector at a time. Look for the one that doesn't seem to affect the idle as much as the others.

A good (cheap) tool to have is an ELM-327. They're about $10 on Amazon, and you can download a free app to your phone to use it. It gives you live engine data and will greatly help your troubleshooting efforts.

I see that you replaced the injectors. By any chance would you happen to still have the old ones?
 
Is it a single cylinder misfire? To test this, unplug one injector at a time. Look for the one that doesn't seem to affect the idle as much as the others.

A good (cheap) tool to have is an ELM-327. They're about $10 on Amazon, and you can download a free app to your phone to use it. It gives you live engine data and will greatly help your troubleshooting efforts.

I see that you replaced the injectors. By any chance would you happen to still have the old ones?

Yes I put them in and the idle mIS did not change but I did start getting mis fire codes. Put the new ones back in and no more codes

I had what appears to be the ELM 327 but did not have luck connecting to it. Seemed to be a wifi issue as other OBD II units seem fine. I switched internet providers I will try hooking it up again
 
Please describe in more detail your "misfire". Likewise, I'd very carefully go over the intake manifold looking for hairline cracks, gasket air leaks, etc. Hairline cracks, in intake-manifolds, can be a PITA to detect when the cracks open and close during heat cycling.

Best regards,

CJR
 
Please describe in more detail your "misfire". Likewise, I'd very carefully go over the intake manifold looking for hairline cracks, gasket air leaks, etc. Hairline cracks, in intake-manifolds, can be a PITA to detect when the cracks open and close during heat cycling.

Best regards,

CJR

The engine has a rough idle. Bounces around 675- 725 rpm. Sitting in the drivers seat you can feel the car shake. It is fairly consistent. Would spraying started fluid around the intake manifold work to detect leaks or are suggesting a purely visual inspection?
 
You definitely need to spray around the intake while warm/running.
 
Does the rough idle clear-up at higher speed? Yes, spray manifold looking for cracks, but also do a very intensive visual inspection of the manifold.

I bought my 88XJ years ago and was plagued with a rough idle. Then one day my son and did a thorough visual inspection, on a hot engine, and my son's sharp eyes picked up the hairline crack. The PO had mixed up some aluminium epoxy to cleverly cover-up and hide the manifold crack. However, when the engine heat expanded the manifold, the epoxy patch cracked and allowed extra air to enter the engine. On cool-down, the epoxy crack closed-up tight and was invisible to the eye. Also, if you have spark plug wires , check them out as well.

Best regards,

CJR
 
Does the rough idle clear-up at higher speed? Yes, spray manifold looking for cracks, but also do a very intensive visual inspection of the manifold.

I bought my 88XJ years ago and was plagued with a rough idle. Then one day my son and did a thorough visual inspection, on a hot engine, and my son's sharp eyes picked up the hairline crack. The PO had mixed up some aluminium epoxy to cleverly cover-up and hide the manifold crack. However, when the engine heat expanded the manifold, the epoxy patch cracked and allowed extra air to enter the engine. On cool-down, the epoxy crack closed-up tight and was invisible to the eye. Also, if you have spark plug wires , check them out as well.

Best regards,

CJR

Yes it runs great under load, good acceleration, does not lurch or sputter, or appear to misfire at freeway speed or acceleration
 
You definitely need to spray around the intake while warm/running.
feel pretty confident that I have done this but will give it another shot. Going to try and go find another harness that I can put in so I can fix the one I have. Need to kept running while I work on it.
 
Good luck with that specially since they are very application specific. Did you read the entire thread? Out of 3 harness's all had wire degradation.
 
At this point, I'd hang a vacuum gauge on it and see what the needle movements tell you. There are many symptoms that can be diagnosed with how the vacuum gauge needle is acting. Likewise, try swapping in a spare TPS to see if there's an improvement. Based on what you've described, there seems to be an air leak at idle which smooths out on acceleration.

Best regards,

CJR
 
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