FUSE BLOCK BULKHEAD CONNECTOR

I recently posted a request for help in removing the bulkhead connector/fuse block and was gratified by the responses, especially those from GSequoia, very helpful. Anyway, got it done today and thought I would pass on what I learned in case someone else has a similar problem.

While towing a boat trailer with my 88 MJ, i smelled smoke and shut her down. Found the park/tail-light fuse melted but not blown. Previous owner had installed a 20 amp fuse in the socket and it melted the fuse and the block. Chilton's calls for a 20A, FSM calls for a 10A.

Installed an inline fuse to restore the circuit, but then the parking lights stayed on. Removed the headlight switch and found two wires melted together. In the process, i wiggled the bulkhead connector and lo and behold, I then had a no start condition.

Speculate that in wiggling the connector (which is very similar to the infamous C101). some of the black tar got between the contacts. Making a long story short, I removed the connector and fuse block and cleaned the contacts, works good now.

Some tips to pass along......

1. Remove the lower instrument panel faschia. Remove the washer bottle. Loosen the 6.5mm bolt between the two bulkhead connectors. It is a long captive screw.

2. Remove the dust covers on the connectors above and below the center bolt. Push in on the sides of the covers to release the locking tabs.

3. Remove the lower connector first, then the upper connector will come out, it is held captive till the lower is removed.

4. Remove the fuse block, two phillips screws

5. Remove the steering wheel braces to gain working slack on the interior harness (two 15mm bolts and one 15mm nut)

6. Use a solvent to clean out the black tar, I used Xylol and carb cleaner. Repair damaged wiring

7. Re-assemble by LOOSELY installing the fuse block. If you tighten the block at this stage, you will not have clearance to re-insert the connectors from the engine side.

8. Slide the upper connector into the retaining shell from the rear before pushing both connectors into place and tightening the center bolt. If you install the lower connector first, and then try to install the upper, it will not go...

Tighten everything down and check her out.....

On a side note, I have always had an uncontrollable high idle and a lazy O2 sensor, now she idles fine at 750 and I think the O2 sensor will be more effective....

First time thru, it's about a 4 to 5 hour job, depending on number of beer breaks.

Did you replace the headlight switch? Also check the instrument light fuse. That circuit, parking light, also supplies power to the instrument lights. The path for the instrument lights is power from the parking light fuse, to the dimmer in the headlight switch, back down to the instrument light fuse, back up to the instrument lights.

Next time you have the headlights on and the instrument lights lite for awhile (half hour or more) slip your finger behind the headlight switch knob onto the metal knob rod and feel for heat. The dimmer for the instrument lights sometimes gets a partial short and generates a lot of heat, it will slow blow the parking light fuse and sometimes even the instrument light fuse.

Maybe you overloaded the circuit with the trailer lights, maybe a loose connector that got jot, maybe the dimmer, worth checking out so you don't have a repeat.

I installed a rack of relays for my trailer hookup, dedicated fuse and hot wire and relays for all of the trailer lights/functions. It was a kit I bought many years ago, some trailer rental places have it, fairly inexpensive.



Dimmer circuit, often overlooked when troubleshooting the parking light circuit and a known trouble spot. I finally gave up finding an after market headlight switch with a good dimmer that lasted and jumped the dimmer, my dash lights are always full bright.