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Water pump?

soopergoober

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Marcos, CA
98, 4.0, aw4/231 - Got a dumb question.

So money is tight and I thought I'd run this by the masters before I take any action. My temp gauge has been running at about 210* for a week or two now, this is 15-20* higher that normal. Also the aux fan is constantly on and it also sounds like a pully is about to go out.

This is a water pump going bad right?


Mods - Please move to oem tech - don't know what I was thinking!
 
Last edited:
Pull the belt and check the accessories and idlers. Check for play on the shafts and how the bearings feel when spun.

With a 195 degree thermostat your engine should be operating at 205~210 degrees as its normal operating temperature.

Your efan shouldn't be kicking on until about 213~217 degrees. Perhaps there is a problem with the a/c system and that is causing it to run. Maybe the fan relay is stuck on.

Jumper power to the efan with the engine off--maybe that is the bearing noise you are hearing.
 
Not necessarrilly... Could be a couple different things...

Fan Clutch.. plugged radiator.. (Been mudding lately?) Stuck stat.....

I just went thru a overhaul on mine as well..

(COPY PASTE FROM COMANCHE CLUB)

COOLING SYSTEM UPGRADE!! This took place over most of a week...

SUNDAY: My water pump is going south fast and I'll be swapping it this week.

Contemplating a HI-FLO pump, hi-flo T-stat and massaged higher flo water neck. BTW, I already have a 3 core radiator and a new heater core. I will also be upgrading the overflow bottle to a aluminum tank.

Definitely NO CHEAPIE/REBUILT pumps for me this time!!!

BTW, I ordered the Howe aluminum tank, Dorman overflow tank and Mopar hi-floaT-stat from Summit last nite. I should have it by Wednesday.
Today I'm heading to NAPA as you suggested to get/order the pump. I see a couple choices from them. First I wanted opinions on the high Flo models. NAXJA has mixed reviews, more said it wasn't worth the extra cost. I'll likely end up with a newly manufactured NAPA unit. I'm also getting new "Y's" (the heater disconnect valve) and hoses for the heater core.

Gonna try to get started today, if it warms up higher then the 21 degrees it is now!!! I figure I can at least get everything apart and ready for the install.

I am not a fan of running only or converting to electric. Altho I do have the factory A/C electric fan installed and on a manual switch in the cab. I use it on the trail or on freeway on long grades.
Don't get me wrong, it has has never overheated on me, but it does get to 220 on the factory gauge. (I suspect it as not being very accurate either)I changed out everything a couple years ago and it (the temps) where much improved. I installed a 180 Tstat, new, clutch, new heater core, new 3 core rad, all new hoses and rebuilt water pump.
The NAPA was closed today, so ordering/picking up the parts will have to wait till Monday. BUT, It warmed up enough so I was able to get everything dis-assembled and ready for the new parts to go in.

MJWaterpump013-1.jpg


One casualty... my shroud. FREAKIN' THING IS ALWAYS I THE WAY!! I also found the idler, just to the right of the A/C idler is also noisy. Hopefully this is not a dealer part, but I fear it is. OH well, not a huge deal as its easy to swap at a later date if it doesn't come in i time.

I opened up the water neck with a air grinder in about ten minutes!

BEFORE:

MJWaterpump001.jpg


AFTER:

MJWaterpump004.jpg



Everything came out easily sans that shroud.

MONDAY: Got to NAPA tonight, A NEW pump in hand along with new real radiator cap, some 1/4" hose and couple new gaskets another bottle of indian head cement and a bottle of green juice.

Tomorrow I'll be out there buttoning it back up. Then its just a waiting game for the aluminum bottle, overflow bottle and hi-flo T-stat.

WEDNESDAY:

MjwaterpumpII001.jpg

MjwaterpumpII004.jpg


I got the water pump and the PS brackets back in tonight. I am still missing the T-Stat, pressure bottle and overflow tank so I cannot finish, but its moving along nicely!!!
It shouldn't take but a hour to finish this up and I'll be ready for Sunday!!
Poor me, guess I am driving the TJ a couple more days... I'm glad I still have the AT's on it!!! The thing drives like a sports car with the Lil 33's!!
THURSDAY: Parts just arrived and I have to leave for the meeting!! GRRR

I gotta get some fittings I forgot about anyhow...

here is some pics...

MJpressuretank001.jpg

Tomorrow night.. in the cold.. I'll be out there installing this...

I also received the replacement bearings from EBay... five minutes and the old one was pressed out and the new one in!!

Bearing.jpg


FRIDAY: I ran back to NAPA on the way home and picked up the hose barbs and hose I needed. A few minutes with some Teflon tape and I had the tank ready to install.

MJwaterpumpIII004.jpg


I had a couple big hose clamps and I grabbed a piece of 2" "C" channel. It worked perfectly to hold the tank at 90 degrees while being very firm.

MJwaterpumpIII003.jpg


A few more minutes routing the hose to the overflow tank and it was complete.

MJwaterpumpIII005.jpg


The overflow tank fit perfectly beside the air box after I moved the ballast resistor and vacuum fitting a bit toward the firewall.

MJwaterpumpIII006.jpg


The temprature is now running right at 160. The heat is a bit cooler, bit plenty warm.



One problem..... I got a bit of a leak at the water neck... SO the freaking thing comes apart again....

Saturday is my next available time.. hope its warm....

I did end up going back out there tonight... Threw in the heater and it was rite cozy!!

I decided to throw in a sealer as I noticed the radiator itself was leaking a bit. Just a small leak, but a leak just the same. My heat at the water neck was just a drip, but as the pressure built and the fan pushed it around, it looked bad.

Sealer seems to have worked at least slowed it to a tiny stain.

Also noticed that my math sux.... the factory gage goes from 100 to 260 with 210 straight up. (Bear with me here) that's 90 degrees from 100-210 so the mark I was calling 180 is really only 145. Now add 15 more for the 1/3 past the center mark and we get 160 degrees. That's 20 under the 180 that the stat is... seems the gage IS way off as its IS rock steady where it sits.

Also, my upper rad hose doesn't even get firm... OR overly hot!! SO, my guess is I have a air bubble. Squeezing the hose doesn't seem to move any fluids. Comparing the heater hose with the upper rad hose isn't close in temps. I ran it tonight for most of an hour idle and revving to 2000 and 3000 rpms and held there for a couple minutes multiple times.

Hopefully it will relieve itself as it cools tonight, I filled the overflo bottle to near full.

SATURDAY: When I got out to the truck this AM, the overflow was empty, (I 3/4 filled it last night when hot)so the system IS working.



I took it for a ride to get more Kerosene for the heater, it was fine, but never got above the revised 160 degrees.
I pulled the upper hose off while it was warm and it was indeed empty... There was a amount in the water neck on top of the T stat. I added fluid to the upper hose and it immediately came out of the water neck.. so the T stat is indeed open. then I removed the upper heater hose where it enters the pressure bottle and again filled or tried to add more fluid. I got a bit in, but not too much. I "burped" the upper rad hose at the same time and was able to add even a bit more. I also found a bad pos batter terninal..

SO its now a waiting game to see what gets sucked into the system, then refill and repeat. Only potential problem I cam see is if the new T stat is stuck open...

OK, Good to know Daniel!! Thanks, so its safe to assume that its working!!
I have given it about two hours to cool, time to go see what happened...

Just checked it out... nothing was "sucked" back into the block/radiator this time... I know its got room as the upper hose was still soft. SO, I jumped in for a cruse.. need fuel anyhow. Put about 25 miles on it and that freakin' hose is still not full... or hot...and the overflow bottle is full near the top. So some was pushed into it on the free way. The temp never moved more than the thickness of the needle. Maybe Juan is rite... I'm over thinking and stressing on nothing.. what do you think??

Its now got a couple hundred miles on it and its NEVER run so temp steady...ever!!

CW
 
You want to be running around 210, maybe a bit lower but definitely above 170 or you'll never enter closed loop mode. Great for pissing gas out the tailpipe and lowering your gas mileage to ~13mpg.
 
210 F is fine for your 98. My 99 runs at 205 and most that I've worked on are in the 200-210 range.

Also consider that there can be some inaccuracy within the gauge circuit.

If you want to verify the temp, get your mitts on a point and shoot infrared thermometer I bought a Raytek MT-6 for under $50) and point it directly at the thermostat housing for a reasonably accurate coolant temp.

Don't want to chase a problem that really isn't there.....
 
Okay, so I took the belt off and checked all the pulleys. The ac compressor pully seems shot - it is difficult to turn by hand and seems to be where the "whining/grinding" noise is coming from. Is it possible to replace just the bearing assembly and not the whole compressor? The clutch is still working fine.
 
Not sure on the compressor in the 98, rockauto.com only shows complete compressors, they don't even list the clutch separately.

Someone more familiar with the later model a/c will chime in soon
 
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