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Best rust reversal/treatment products???

RCP Phx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix,Az
I just noticed some rust on my frame-rail/floor-pan above my pass side cross-member. I'd like to address this right a way with the best stuff available.
 
I'm looking at the Eastwood Frame Rail Rust Converter because it has a tube the can spray inside the frame-rail. Maybe something else to spray on exposed areas.
 
I'm looking at the Eastwood Frame Rail Rust Converter because it has a tube the can spray inside the frame-rail. Maybe something else to spray on exposed areas.

I am assuming you mean the Internal Frame Coating. I used that in my XJ.
Wished I had one of those snake cameras to see what it looked like before and after.
If you use it be careful cause it will seep out in certain areas. Most you won't care about. A couple you will.
Also I moved my rear diff breather. Figured gunking that up would not be a good thing.
I also Fluid Film in there.
 
I'm looking at the Eastwood Frame Rail Rust Converter because it has a tube the can spray inside the frame-rail. Maybe something else to spray on exposed areas.

Eastwood rust converter is a bad product, I have found it to promote rust. Eastwood is a cheapo mailorder company selling a lot of red chinese tools, the harbor freight of car tools. their coatings are all cheap low quality products.

You are much better off to buy coatings from a real automotive coating company, like 3M, Dupont, PPG, SEM, etc.... These companies spend milions on research, testing for great products. dont skimp on your automotive coatings, run away from Eastwood, their coatings are discount quality at best.

SEM makes some great rust converter products

I have been burned by Eastwood rust converters, discussion with their staff revealed they didnt know what they were selling, and had no clue as to chemistry. They admitted that they had nuerouscustomer complaint for their product, rather than pull the product from sale, they then offered it on half off price sale in the neg catalog they mailed out!

Eastwood is a goodsource for some cheapo red chinese tools, but coating experts the are not, go with the pros, the big names that have been developing coating chemistry for decades, not a mail order discount toll outfit.

Visit your local body shop supply company for real products that work. or use the web to read up on the chemicals.

http://www.semproducts.com/sem-catalog


Keep in mind that you want a system of coatings that work well together. for example, some epoxy paint will not properly cure when used over some acid based rust converters or metal prep.

also note that some converters may not cure if used on areas not rusty.

how bad is your rust?

anyway for coatings, run away from Eastwood, just run fast and far away from them. sure the Eastwood discount 6 piece chinese body hammer kit is ok for home use, but not their chemistry, no way!
 
Those look like some good products but they don't show anything that could spray "inside" the frame-rail. That's where I want to start, the exposed stuff will be easy to take care of.
 
I'll give them a call tomorrow, but if it is a (stiff) "wand" it wouldn't do me any good.
 
I'll give them a call tomorrow, but if it is a (stiff) "wand" it wouldn't do me any good.

Maybe. Maybe not.

Depending on what material it is made of and what pressure the tube needs to withstand you may be able to cut the tube in half and then put it back together with a piece of flexible material. This would be something to inquire about when you call them.
 
I'll give them a call tomorrow, but if it is a (stiff) "wand" it wouldn't do me any good.

Actually for the uni-body you want it to be stiffer so that it lies straight/flat.
I Fluid Film in there too. And the wand for the spray cans kinda coils.
So I found out that 3M makes a set of wands for their cavity wax.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MMM08851?keywordInput=08851

Those lie nice and flat. Problem was those are made for the 3M stuff.
Spray cans comes in 2 different types. Sprayer that has the nozzle that goes in the can and sprayer that attaches to the nozzle that is part of the can.
The 3M is the second one. So to get it to work with Fluid Film, which is the first one, I swapped the sprayer part off a Fluid Film wand on to the 3M wand.
So stiffer so it lies straight/flat and is more then flexible enough.
 
I'm not looking to do that much work for so little gain. "lil sis" was originally from Colorado but ended up in Az about 5yrs after that. It only has (from the bottom side) 3 "pencil eraser" sized spots and 1 "dime " sized spot, I'll look under the carpet at the floorboard after I do whatever I can in the frame-rail. It looks like the Eastwood product would be best suited for my needs without a lot of addition prep or products. I definitely don't want any "wax" style products but something that dries hard and can survive our heat and be thoroughly washed now that's a AZ rig.
 
Assuming there is rust in the uni-body I just figured if you could get some of the flaky/loose stuff off before using the Internal Frame Coating it would do a better job.
 
I support the notion that Eastwood products are junk; complete and total junk in my experience. Don't waste your money on their crap. A WHOLE lot of marketing for below-average results. Google search SEM 71120 or KBS 75015.
 
I have used POR15 for years and like it with a couple of exceptions. It is not UV resistant and available in limited colors. Being an aerospace engineer, I found a place called Top Secret Coatings. It is the real deal, many of their paints are MilSpec. Their marine single part moisture catalyzing epoxy, similar to POR-15, is fully UV protected and is tougher than nails and has built in rust converters. It covers in a very thin coat and is available in almost a hundred colors. They have lots of other tailor made paints for different uses.

It is not cheap, but well worth the cost. A quart will cover what a normal gallon will coat. I have been using it for over 20 years. It works great on axles because it does not chip easily due to its hardness and how thin it is to cover.

Just a warning, just like POR, if you get it on your skin and don't get it off in less than a minute, you will have to wait for the skin to wear off to get rid of it. Also, always use a good paint respirator when spraying.

If you spray it on aluminum, you will never be able to sand it off due to the fact that it is soo much harder than the metal, once you break through, the aluminum gets removed before the pain.
 
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I was going to try a product called Agriguard. I think sold at Tractor Supply. I'll look at the Top Secret Coatings. I have used POR15 sine the late 80's. I think they have some of their coatings that are UV resistant. I like to buy it in the small pint 6-packs.
I used a product in the late 80's from JC Whitney called XP2000. It was a spray on undercoat. Suppose to convert the rust etc. I can't find it. I'll have to look at the SEM stuff.
 
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