Bendix swap questions..again.

First post, and I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death, but here we go!

So I picked up a '91 Laredo for a good price, but it's got the crap Bendix 9 ABS system, and to no one's surprise, it's shot. The pump motor runs constantly, and I have virtually no brakes, just a rock hard, vibrating pedal. So I want to do the 96 booster/MC swap, after reading about how simple the swap is, not to mention the dual diaphragm booster.

I'm sure this has been covered in a thread or 5 hasta, but after a couple of days on several XJ forums there's still a couple things that aren't quite clear.

- Do I just need the MC and booster from a 96? I was going to buy the MC new, and the booster used. Is this okay? Can I reuse my prop valve?

- Do I NEED the pedal assembly from a 96? Or can I modify my pedal pretty easily?

I already read the writeups about swapping in a WJ setup, and read the "Removing OEM ABS" tech article, just wanted someone who's done this swap to chime in.

Thanks! Looking forward to hanging around here!

I've converted a couple '90s with the Bendix 9 ABS.

1) If you can pick a used booster from the boneyard, get the master and the proportioning valve too, unless the used MC cost more than the core charge for new. You can not reuse your proportioning valve, it is integral with the ABS.

2) If you can pick your own at the boneyard, get the hard lines for the front brakes. Get the hardline for the rear if you think you can't do a double flare. I have my own flaring tool, and a lot of practice. I installed a union between my existing hard line, and the section I took with the MC.

3) I modified the rod from the booster to work with my existing brake switch and pedal assembly. I don't know if the pedal stud and switch in the '91 is different from the '90, but all I had to do was remove some material from the '96 rod eye.

4) One question you have not asked is about the 9" brake drums and smaller wheel cylinder that compliment the Bendix 9 ABS. My bud converted to 10" brake drums from the boneyard, I swapped out my axle. What I learned tonight, is that I had been running a C-clip axle the whole time. I could have easily swapped rear disc brakes into the ol' D-35. :banghead:

HTH

currently in the process of this as well. the brake switch used in the bendix 9 system is identical to the 96 i found this out when i ordered a new brake switch when i went to pick it up it was completely different. looked at a 96 same. found out 96 looks near bolt in for 91 bendix 9

carter442 said:

found out '96 looks near bolt in for '91 bendix 9

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Good to know, thanks!

Priceless info guys, thanks!

I bought a new MC and booster and plan on bending my own lines, i'm just having a hard time finding the prop valve anywhere. Trying one more junkyard today, then i'm gonna be hitting up ebay I guess, hah.

shoot you guys always say its hard to find jeeps in a junkyard. the local picapart in indy ALWAYS has jeeps i have never had an unsuccessful trip. we average atleast 10 jeeps a trip as in thats how many we look through. and it is priceless information i have noticed no one follows up on their write ups for the swaps. i wanted a bolt in swap so i gathered parts then began the swap. big mistake because i bought all 91 parts believing that it would be a bolt in.

I did mine using a donor 96. Cut the donor hardlines at the prop valve (leaving the fittings and several inches of line in place), leave it attached to the master cylinder, got the booster, spacer, and just kept going, taking the entire brake assembly off the inner firewall. No issues with rod length, etc. As I recall looking at it, the pin on the brake pedal the rod connected to was in a slightly different location too.

People make it work without going to that length but I think it was simpler getting the whole assembly and eliminated any questions about compatibility.

Make sure the ABS system is depressurized (disconnect battery and pump brakes about 50 times). Cut the existing lines as close as possible to the ABS prop valve and gut the ABS system. Pull the fittings from the donor prop, slip over existing lines, flare, attach everything, bleed, enjoy. Yeah the wheel cylinders for ABS are smaller than normal brakes.

3XJFamily said:

I did mine using a donor 96. Cut the donor hardlines at the prop valve (leaving the fittings and several inches of line in place), leave it attached to the master cylinder, got the booster, spacer, and just kept going, taking the entire brake assembly off the inner firewall. No issues with rod length, etc. As I recall looking at it, the pin on the brake pedal the rod connected to was in a slightly different location too.

People make it work without going to that length but I think it was simpler getting the whole assembly and eliminated any questions about compatibility.

Make sure the ABS system is depressurized (disconnect battery and pump brakes about 50 times). Cut the existing lines as close as possible to the ABS prop valve and gut the ABS system. Pull the fittings from the donor prop, slip over existing lines, flare, attach everything, bleed, enjoy. Yeah the wheel cylinders for ABS are smaller than normal brakes.

Click to expand...

i am already in my swap too much money to go back but if i could this is the route i would take and reccommend to anyone

Is there any remanufactured bendix 9-10 cores sale any more or is this a get lucky part ?