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  #31  
Old April 16th, 2018, 12:23
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denverd1 denverd1 is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

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Originally Posted by Lowrange2 View Post
Coming from DIY beadlocks, I'd never build another set. I've had several sets. I've always fought them. They stupid heavy. They leak like no tomorrow. They're a pain to bolt the ring on.

There's several aluminum wheels on the market for awesome prices.

Dirty Life wheels from Dan McPherson (DMR Offroad) being the cheapest at like $235 each.

I paid $279 each for my Raceline Monsters with aluminum rings. Like $1100 to my door.

:/ I guess that's why most folks with big boy rigs run aluminum wheels. If you hit a wheel hard enough to shatter it, you have bigger problems."

I worry constantly but not about shattering my wheels. lol
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you Lowrange. This is looking more and more like something I should pony up to pay for and be done with it.
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  #32  
Old April 16th, 2018, 12:37
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Lowrange2 Lowrange2 is online now
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

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Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you Lowrange. This is looking more and more like something I should pony up to pay for and be done with it.
My Racelines came from Scott GoForth at GoForth Tire in TN.

Definitely worth the extra few bucks. The nutserts in the wheel (Raceline) vs having to hold the nut with a wrench on the back makes all the difference in the world.
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  #33  
Old April 16th, 2018, 12:51
two_door_rob two_door_rob is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

I've never had leaking issues with mine, but the tires I mounted to them were brand new and I put silicone on the inside of the bead as a precaution. I would definitely agree that they're a huge pain to mount, and they're super heavy. If you can swing the extra cash for sure go aluminum. It just wasn't an option for me.
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  #34  
Old April 17th, 2018, 13:24
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denverd1 denverd1 is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

anybody used Method or Dirty life beadlocks? 20 and 24 bolt applications, just curious if they hold the bead as well as a 32 bolt rim
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  #35  
Old April 18th, 2018, 04:10
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89eliminator 89eliminator is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

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Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
anybody used Method or Dirty life beadlocks? 20 and 24 bolt applications, just curious if they hold the bead as well as a 32 bolt rim
i run dirty lifes. no issues thus far.
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  #36  
Old April 18th, 2018, 08:44
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smokeyyank smokeyyank is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

http://badwheelsinc.com/index.php?ro...tegory&path=59

A lot more $$ than others but 100% made here and DOT compliant.
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  #37  
Old April 18th, 2018, 10:58
VAhasnoWAVES VAhasnoWAVES is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

i ran the ultra 103 beadlocks. its a high pressure casting. made by the same guys who make walkers. and super light. measured my old ones (15x8) at 24 pounds with hardware. the 44 is an upgrade and all, but its not bullet proof. i think the lack of rotating mass is what helped mine live a happy life. and price on those wheels has come down a LOT since i bought mine.

concerning DIY... my time is money. once you factor in all the consumables and your time, you really arent coming out ahead by much, if at all. ill pay a little extra just to have a warranty.

youll never regret buying a quality beadlock until you go to tons. lol.
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  #38  
Old April 20th, 2018, 08:33
burntkat burntkat is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
Well that's not going to work! How would you cut the wheel straight/true?
Looks like you've not looked into this in a while. There are locks out there that drop into the front lip of the wheel and weld in.

A 120VAC wire-feed welder is plenty to do this, so long as it will handle the material. I used fluxcore with my Lincoln 3200HD and it worked a treat.

Honestly, I am pretty sure you could do it with a 120VAC inverter stick box. I may try that, as I have a set of wheels to build.

BTW, they don't cost $100 each, either. TMI's product (the best I have found in this product) are $50 each. Put them on a steel wheel, brand new, you're looking at $100/wheel, complete assembly. Less if you use old wheels (I am using old "trash" wheels that had a bit of rust).

I wouldn't use the diybeadlocks.com product if you made me, not due to the product itself (though it IS inferior!) but due to the way the owner comports himself. Complete asshat.
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-89 S-10: SAS, D44s front/rear. 5.7L V8. 700R4 with 4L60E upgrades. Built in my driveway.
-90 XJ 4.0, AW4, 231J: Clayton's longarms, RE 5.5" coils, hybrid 6" leaf pack, 33/12.50/15" MTs, Rancho 99012s and 99624s, Tera HD SYE, custom sliders, BW flares. Rehabbing with D44s, RE spring packs, RE 4.5" coils, and ACOS.
-94 ZJ: Budget boost, 31s. The wife's DD.
-97 XJ: Son's DD. 4" lift, ACOS, 4" spring pack, Upcountry coils, 31s
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  #39  
Old April 20th, 2018, 08:37
burntkat burntkat is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavyopp View Post
Then use it -- my 1st welder was a little Lincoln weldpac 100 -- always ran .035 flux core thru it

That little welder did a ton of work -- if my material was too thick I'd weld a pass, grind out half of the weld, and make another pass -- also bevel the edges of your work pieces prior to welding if you need -- good prep makes for good,solid welds
There really is no need to grind out the first weld if it's sound. That's just wasteful, and doesn't exhibit knowledge of the process.

Bevel the parts. Maybe leave a gap for a good root pass. Leave a good root pass, clean that up (wire brush or better yet a wire cup on a grinder) then lay in weave passes on each side of the first bead, sewing the root into the sides. Repeat on each side, and if needed to cap it off.

As long as you are properly preparing the weldment and welding properly, it's that simple.
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-89 S-10: SAS, D44s front/rear. 5.7L V8. 700R4 with 4L60E upgrades. Built in my driveway.
-90 XJ 4.0, AW4, 231J: Clayton's longarms, RE 5.5" coils, hybrid 6" leaf pack, 33/12.50/15" MTs, Rancho 99012s and 99624s, Tera HD SYE, custom sliders, BW flares. Rehabbing with D44s, RE spring packs, RE 4.5" coils, and ACOS.
-94 ZJ: Budget boost, 31s. The wife's DD.
-97 XJ: Son's DD. 4" lift, ACOS, 4" spring pack, Upcountry coils, 31s
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  #40  
Old April 20th, 2018, 08:40
burntkat burntkat is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
I still wouldn't use shielded wire, it burns to hot which leads to warping. It doesn't take to re-starts without some cleaning to avoid air leaks. I don't even use CO2 very often, I use mostly 75/25 CO/Arg mix mostly with the occasional Arg/Hel mix or a similar mix for TIG.
I've welded all of mine with either fluxcore, or fluxcore with CO2 (dualshield welding). I understand your concerns, but they are unfounded.

My beadlocks don't leak. They are straight. Tack the wheel ring in place in 8 places, then weld as you would anything else you don't want to warp- short sections and watch your tie-ins. If you had a positioner you could tack them in place and just burn in one run.

Lots of worry over nothing.
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-89 S-10: SAS, D44s front/rear. 5.7L V8. 700R4 with 4L60E upgrades. Built in my driveway.
-90 XJ 4.0, AW4, 231J: Clayton's longarms, RE 5.5" coils, hybrid 6" leaf pack, 33/12.50/15" MTs, Rancho 99012s and 99624s, Tera HD SYE, custom sliders, BW flares. Rehabbing with D44s, RE spring packs, RE 4.5" coils, and ACOS.
-94 ZJ: Budget boost, 31s. The wife's DD.
-97 XJ: Son's DD. 4" lift, ACOS, 4" spring pack, Upcountry coils, 31s
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  #41  
Old April 20th, 2018, 08:44
burntkat burntkat is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax View Post
In the last 15 years I've done a dozen or so weld on beadlocks. Honestly in the end it cost the same. It really boils down to how much time you are willing to but in to them. Weld on you have the cost of the wheels, beadlock kit, hardware (nuts and bolts), paint, valve stems, balancing beads, welding wire and a grinder. What is a weekend worth to you? Welding is a key skill need. A fair about of prep is needed.

Personally I'm not ever going to recommend someone do dyi beadlocks. For the average individual, it dose not pencil out.
OK, I'll play this game:
Buying a new wheel: $50
beadlock kit at TMI: $50/wheel
hardware: $15
paint: $5 (oh, BTW- you're not going to use all of it)
valve stems: You already have them in the wheel- $0
balancing beads: Sure, if you want to go that way. $5 of BBs
welding wire: negligible. It's not like you're using a spool of wire per wheel.
grinder: Again, negligible. I don't know anyone that buys a grinder per item they build

total: $125. Let's call it $150 to be ridiculous.

Cheapest beadlock I've seen is $275. Are you not good at math?
__________________
-89 S-10: SAS, D44s front/rear. 5.7L V8. 700R4 with 4L60E upgrades. Built in my driveway.
-90 XJ 4.0, AW4, 231J: Clayton's longarms, RE 5.5" coils, hybrid 6" leaf pack, 33/12.50/15" MTs, Rancho 99012s and 99624s, Tera HD SYE, custom sliders, BW flares. Rehabbing with D44s, RE spring packs, RE 4.5" coils, and ACOS.
-94 ZJ: Budget boost, 31s. The wife's DD.
-97 XJ: Son's DD. 4" lift, ACOS, 4" spring pack, Upcountry coils, 31s
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  #42  
Old April 20th, 2018, 09:18
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freerider15 freerider15 is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh9mile View Post
I hear good things about the dirty life beadlocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89eliminator View Post
i got my dirty lifes for less than $1k shipped to my door. that was a few months ago so idk if prices have gone up or not.
This ^^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by srb531 View Post
the dirty life ones are cast aluminum , the reason for the lower cost. steel will bend , cast will shatter if hit hard enough.
That steel wheel will be complete trash long before an AL wheel begins to see issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowrange2 View Post
Coming from DIY beadlocks, I'd never build another set. I've had several sets. I've always fought them. They stupid heavy. They leak like no tomorrow. They're a pain to bolt the ring on.

There's several aluminum wheels on the market for awesome prices.

Dirty Life wheels from Dan McPherson (DMR Offroad) being the cheapest at like $235 each.

I paid $279 each for my Raceline Monsters with aluminum rings. Like $1100 to my door.



:/ I guess that's why most folks with big boy rigs run aluminum wheels. If you hit a wheel hard enough to shatter it, you have bigger problems."



I worry constantly but not about shattering my wheels. lol
This x 10

Quote:
Originally Posted by burntkat View Post
OK, I'll play this game:
Buying a new wheel: $50
beadlock kit at TMI: $50/wheel
hardware: $15
paint: $5 (oh, BTW- you're not going to use all of it)
valve stems: You already have them in the wheel- $0
balancing beads: Sure, if you want to go that way. $5 of BBs
welding wire: negligible. It's not like you're using a spool of wire per wheel.
grinder: Again, negligible. I don't know anyone that buys a grinder per item they build

total: $125. Let's call it $150 to be ridiculous.

Cheapest beadlock I've seen is $275. Are you not good at math?
Well, that might be for a 15" wheel. But a 17" generic black steel wheel is around $100 each these days.

Also, you're not factoring in that to people, their time is worth something. Welding, grinding, and hoping it's sealed...nah.

That, and all you end up with is a flat surface that doesn't center the tire very well.

Will Steel DIY's work? Absolutely.

Will AL's work, and possibly save you a lot of time and frustration? Very likely.

I had steel wheels and planned on DIY's on my buggy. Sooooo so glad I went with my Racelines. I got them for ~$1200 to my door. Cost I guess has since gone up some, so I'd look at the Dirty Life wheels in a heartbeat from Dan at DMR Offroad.
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  #43  
Old April 20th, 2018, 09:19
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denverd1 denverd1 is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

17 x 8.5/9 wheels are 100. so that puts the project at closer to 200 per wheel. not a lot of cost savings for a full weekend in the shop.
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  #44  
Old April 20th, 2018, 09:25
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freerider15 freerider15 is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
17 x 8.5/9 wheels are 100. so that puts the project at closer to 200 per wheel. not a lot of cost savings for a full weekend in the shop
Eggzachary.

When I bought the steel wheels I did for the buggy, they were like $60 each through Summit. Sold them and MADE money four or so years later when I noticed they had gone up.

You might be able to get them cheaper on Craigslist, or during one of Discount Tire's sales. Otherwise you're at $400 for just the wheels.

Add in $200 for a Weld On Kit.

Add in $60 for Gr8 hardware (ok maybe less depending on where you go and such).

So, we'll call it $700 once you add in some consumables, valve stems (don't come on new wheels), etc.

For some, I 100% understand that the jump from that to AL Beadlocks just isn't worth it.

But, to me the money is worth a far superior product, that only takes time as far as mounting, centers the tire, and will take a hell of a beating.
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  #45  
Old April 20th, 2018, 12:21
burntkat burntkat is offline
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Re: beadlocks: weld-on vs $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh9mile View Post
I'm running waggy axles also. They are narrower than stock XJ axles. With 3.5 backspace wheels I'm running 3in spacers in the back and 2inch in the front. Just an FYI
I'd like to see some numbers on this- I'm almost certain you're wrong.
__________________
-89 S-10: SAS, D44s front/rear. 5.7L V8. 700R4 with 4L60E upgrades. Built in my driveway.
-90 XJ 4.0, AW4, 231J: Clayton's longarms, RE 5.5" coils, hybrid 6" leaf pack, 33/12.50/15" MTs, Rancho 99012s and 99624s, Tera HD SYE, custom sliders, BW flares. Rehabbing with D44s, RE spring packs, RE 4.5" coils, and ACOS.
-94 ZJ: Budget boost, 31s. The wife's DD.
-97 XJ: Son's DD. 4" lift, ACOS, 4" spring pack, Upcountry coils, 31s
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