what XJ to choose

Hey everybody, I'm new to the 4x4 thing but have ridden in my buddies 91 cherokee and would like to build one of my own, will be using it primarily as a huntin, fishin and campin vehicle. What year should i look for, r some better than others, have heard to go at least 91 and newer. Which year has the Dana rear axle? How much lift should i go with, which brand of lift, what size of tires? Looking at spending 5000 to 6000 can. dollars. Thanks for your response.

Just browse around the site a bit. There is a lot of info. On all the questions you asked.

Personally, I would opt for the years with the HO engine. They have the Chrysler computer. The Renix enignes have the Renault Bendix, the French computer system.

You can fit 31's easily on a 3" lift. Might have to trim a bit, but most don't. Id look for a distrubitor in Canada, shipping might be less for a lift and such. For a good driving tire, id reccomend a BFG MT or the SS Trxus MT's. Both are fairly aggresive, and offer long road life. Id look into an RE lift, or possibly an OME, for a great ride. Go with full leaf packs, too.

All years have the Dana axle, its wether the rig was optioned with the chrysler 8.25. Id look for one with an 8.25, HO, AW4, and a HP30 front. Good starting point for a rig, IMO.

My .02.

Welcome to 4x4 world. I'll be the first to say it because alot of guys will tear you a new one saying it. This forum has a good search function at the top of the page that will be very helpful. Do a little browsing and see what you think will fit your application. It is nearly impossible for us to make a solid recommendation so browsing around will help. here I will start you out. 84-96 XJ is the old body style and 97-01 is the newer body style. Pretty much the same though with eash year having minor changes. The newer body style is mostly great for an updated interior. The lift, tires, and everything else is all opinion which has been stated thousands of times in previous posts. Good luck.

darn it looks like i wasn't the first. oh well. slow typer

waserwolf said:

Hey everybody, I'm new to the 4x4 thing but have ridden in my buddies 91 cherokee and would like to build one of my own, will be using it primarily as a huntin, fishin and campin vehicle.

Click to expand...

Friendly nitpick: hunting, camping, fishing, unless apostrophes are involved.

What year should i look for

Click to expand...

The latest and cleanest your budget can afford. Another diversion:

r

Click to expand...

Nothing against you... But, c'mon. 'Are' vs. 'r'. Grammar and spelling Nazi that I am, plz 2 not b using teh intarwebz talk.

some better than others, have heard to go at least 91 and newer.

Click to expand...

'91 and up got the HO engine - meaning approx. 191bhp vs. about 173bhp; there were similar torque gains. 2000 and 2001 model-year XJs got another slight boost courtesy of distributorless ignition, better porting on the manifolds, and a few other things..

Which year has the Dana rear axle?

Click to expand...

All of them. The rear axle that the specific vehicle was fitted with depends largely on specification at the time of sale.

How much lift should i go with, which brand of lift, what size of tires?

Click to expand...

Can't answer that; nobody can. It depends on the type of wheeling that you do and what you want to get out of the vehicle.

The best advice I can give you is to start going through the classifieds for the nicest, cleanest, least-abused XJ you can find and go from there. Once you've got it, run it stock for a while and surprise yourself with what it can do - then go from there and figure out how you want to build it out.

98 or 99 . 00- 01 have head issues . or right before the refresh i think that was 97 . get a D44 or 8.25 rear AVOID dana 35

I have a '99. HO 4.0L, High Pinion D30, 29spline Chrysler 8.25, etc. The newer models I think look a lot cleaner, and the interior will also probably more clean, and comforatable than the older models. If you want older styles, look for an '88 or '89, those are the years that you could find a Dana 44 on the back.

i had both a 92 and still have a 97

97-98
you get the cleaner more finished models the best motor(in my opinion)
earlier

years weren't as finished seems like they all had a few problems(headliner fell down on almost all of them from what i understand)

99 and later models are good choices but they had more emission bullshit to deal w/, this caused a 15hp loss so chrysler redesigned the intake to get it back, so using this intake you can get an extra 15hp

i would go to a junkyard find this intake for 15hp, and maybe get a bank header(love mine), then do a short (3") lift and 31" tires
if you have probs with the 35 axle you can always swap it for a 44

i think this would be the best setup for you

British Columbia?, I'd be concerned with corrosion, 97 or newer.
or
91-96, but be sure to check the floors and rockers for rot.

2 cents

Welcome to Jeepin, XJ style. Good luck finding a Dana 44, it came with a rarely optioned tow package, but some areas seemed to get them more than others.

All the above is good advice - search is your friend here and on the internet. I have a 12" stack of printouts on XJ mods from various web pages, so don't take the vagueness of response as more than we just can't keep up.

To be more specific, the 87-90 Renix models don't give you codes, and suffer from Jeep QA, as in more broke little stuff. No codes is OK if you're old school and diagnose things yourself. '91 up gives OBD codes, which can be informative if you know what they really mean. Quality is much better under Chrysler, the HO engine generally better but can't always hop up as easily in some minor respects - modding the sensors and controls. Not a big deal.
Shop for the XJ that has the options you need - Laredos have a lot of gizmos that break over the years. It's annoying to have a cruise that won't work, or remote doors that aren't, especially if you just don't need it - it jacks up the cost anyway.

As for all the other, bumpers, lockers, lifts, mods, cages, well good luck again. We all find the perfect mod a month after we finshed the last one we thought would do.

PolishX said:

00- 01 have head issues .

Click to expand...

Ehh, the 0331 head issue is somewhat blown out of proportion in my opinion. There are thousands of XJs out there (mine included) running around on the 'timebomb' 0331 with no problems. Yes, there has been a higher percentage of 0331 heads cracking compared to other years - but I'd be interested in seeing some stats comparing build dates to head failures: my suspicion is that there was likely a bad batch or two of the heads that were delivered to Jeep, but that not all 0331 heads are bad. It'd also be interesting to know how many of them went because basic maintenance wasn't followed, thus accelerating their demise.

The one big advantage of 2000 & 2001 XJs: distributorless ignition on the 4.0. They don't have quite as nice a character as the Renix and HO engines in my opinion, but you don't have to worry about moisture in distributor caps, rotor arms eating the big green weenie, or plug wires rotting out over time. The torque curve for a distributorless 4.0 also comes on approximately 1000 RPM lower than in an HO or Renix.

get a D44 or 8.25 rear AVOID dana 35

Click to expand...

You're only likely to find a D44 in an '87-'89 model. While it's certainly a better axle to have than the D35, the D35 is just fine for DD and moderate wheeling use. If you really feel the need for something stronger, you can always swap in an 8.25 or D44 later - but spending time trying to track down a D44-equipped XJ (which, given its age, is likely to be a beat-to-hell vehicle otherwise) probably isn't worth the effort.

Again, I'll reiterate my earlier point: find the nicest one you can for the money and go from there. You're pretty much always better off in the long run spending more on a clean, well-cared-for vehicle than trying to put right neglect.

cjovertj said:

99 and later models are good choices but they had more emission bullshit to deal w/, this caused a 15hp loss so chrysler redesigned the intake to get it back, so using this intake you can get an extra 15hp

Click to expand...

But overall the later emissions system is much easier to deal with - a pre-cat, catalytic converter, and either two or three oxygen sensors depending on whether you had a California- or Federal-emissions-spec vehicle. No EGR valves, fewer vacuum lines. '95-up would be a good timeframe to be looking in; a friend of mine picked up a Lapis Blue '96 a couple of months ago in very good condition despite its 175,000 miles for $3500. It also came with a Garvin Wilderness rack, rack lights, a Hi-Lift, and 3 inches of lift (RE, if memory serves) on 31" BFG T/A KOs in nearly-new condition. There are deals to be had out there, you've just got to sniff them out.

casm said:

The one big advantage of 2000 & 2001 XJs: distributorless ignition on the 4.0.

Click to expand...

Not sure I'd call that an advantage. If you have problems with it it's the difference between $400 for a new ignition system or trouble shooting it down to the suspect component like a distributor or wires. You can buy a whole "tune up" kit with a new cap, rotor, wires and plugs for $150.
As for the best stock setup, I'm biased and like the mix of my 97. 8.25 axle, 231 t-case, AX-15 5-speed, 4.0L. I'd look for the lowest mileage, best condition 97-99 I could find. Mods are personal preference and for average trail running you'd be surprised what a "stocker" can do if you simply disconnect the front sway bar.

Most people have already mentioned to stay away from the dana 35, but that's only if you plan on running huge tires and want to do serious rock crawling or mud bogging.

But for a hunting/camping/fishing vehicle, the dana 35 will serve you well if you take care of it (oil changes) and keep the tire size modest (like 30" or below).

Most Xj's used off road get most of their off road performance from excellent articulation, not massive ground clearence.

I run a 2 inch lift kit with 29" tall tires with front swaybar disconnects, and I really give the big jeeps a run for their money.

Get a 97-99 Jeep. The 99 is the absolute best because it has the best stock combination of parts (better intake, good cyl. head, and high pinion dana front axle). Mine is a 99 and its kick ass.

ridgeone said:

Not sure I'd call that an advantage. If you have problems with it it's the difference between $400 for a new ignition system or trouble shooting it down to the suspect component like a distributor or wires. You can buy a whole "tune up" kit with a new cap, rotor, wires and plugs for $150.

Click to expand...

New coil rail is ~$130 AT THE DEALER. I know, I bought one yesterday. Add plugs and you're at the magic $150 you quote.

reece146 said:

New coil rail is ~$130 AT THE DEALER. I know, I bought one yesterday. Add plugs and you're at the magic $150 you quote.

Click to expand...

Adding on from this:

I've currently got 114,000 miles on my 2000. The departed 2001 had about 113,000 when the flood got both of us, and between the two I've put roughly 65,000 miles on distributorless XJs. Slightly more than five years after the last XJ rolled off of the line, we're seeing very few replacements of the coil rail; God knows I'm still running my factory one.

This is not an unreliable ignition system by any means. Sure, it might cost more to have to replace than a cap, rotor, and wires - but when you factor in the longevity, it's at least a break-even proposition. And given that it eliminates a number of vices seen in a traditional ignition system, it's worth its weight in D44s.

As was said earlier, get the cleanest, best cared for, newest, low mileage XJ you can for the amount of money you want to spend on it. There have been small changes through the years, but as you can see, there are no clear cut "bad" or "good" changes. Theres no clear cut "best". Theres only the best for how ever much you want to spend.
Set your budget including the lift and tires, and get the best taken care of XJ you can find for that amount of money. You could go back to 91 and find one for $1000 and spend the rest on top dollar accessories or you can blow your whole $6000 budget on an 01 and run it stock, or anything in between. You gotta decide that.
I would suggest not going back any further than the early 90s, not because they were bad models, but because they are getting alot of age on them now and even the well cared for ones are showing it and will need attention.

Some models come without the front axle disconnect. My 91 does not have it.
One more thing to go wrong when you need FWD in the dead of winter.

I also say shoot for a 97+. I have had two 2000's and have had no "real" issues although if I had found N.AXJA before buying my second one I would have gone 99. I don't think any one has mentioned it to you but 00s and 01s have a Low Pinion D30 instead of a High pinion. At stock heights this wouldn't matter but when you lift it puts a steep angle on your front driveshaft. I have pulled a 1996 HP out and swapped it in mine but if you don't wan't to go through that don't look for a 00-01. Also the statement about 99-01s having a loss in power is only partially true. I think mid way through 99 or even only starting in 00 they put precats on the header. Seriously mine was as powerful as my buddies 97 but if it really freaks you out just put a free-er (<--don't think thats a word but you understand ) flowing exhaust on... $175 for a hiflow cat, flowmaster, and a SS tail pipe I don't think will break the bank and you deffintily will feel the nice increase in your "butt dyno." Only issue I have had with my 00's is "heat soak." Basically ChryCo got lazy and didn't insulate the injectors on any of the 4.0s from 2000 up. The number three injector gets so hot from running that if you do quick on and offs you can encounter harsh re-starts and running for about 30 seconds before it smoothes out. Its mostly due to the ethanol content in gas now a days and fuel is evaporating in the injector causing it to kind of skip. Tjs, Xjs, and Wjs all can be prone but not every one will do it...kind of luck of the draw. My first never did it and my new one does but some cheap heat wrap around each injector took care of that!!

hope this helps
Andrew

PS: Dark green is obviously the best color don't let anyone tell you otherwise..

casm said:

Ehh, the 0331 head issue is somewhat blown out of proportion in my opinion. There are thousands of XJs out there (mine included) running around on the 'timebomb' 0331 with no problems. Yes, there has been a higher percentage of 0331 heads cracking compared to other years - but I'd be interested in seeing some stats comparing build dates to head failures: my suspicion is that there was likely a bad batch or two of the heads that were delivered to Jeep, but that not all 0331 heads are bad. It'd also be interesting to know how many of them went because basic maintenance wasn't followed, thus accelerating their demise.

Click to expand...

I agree. There have been a few times that my 0331 head should have cracked, but didnt. But it should be noted when buying a 2000+, and checked when needed.

The biggest downfall with the later models is the low pinion D30. Just a real pain to deal with when lifting higher than 3.5"s.

Getting at the power differences between the 00-01 and the 97-99s...

I have a 98 and a 01. I find the 01 has a bit more pep. By the numbers they are pissing contest different.

If you are planning on modifying a XJ (i.e. regearing the front axle), do not write off the 00-01s because a high pinion Dana 30 can be had at junk yards and within your local 4x4 club for little money.

Local prices seem to range from $100 to $200. He!!, I had one given to me by a local club member.

HTH

My 87 Wagoneer XJ is my favorite rig I own. I also have a 2000 and a 1998 but for the trail I always take the 87. Not because it is set up different than the others it is just more reliable and alot easier to work on on the trail. To each his own but for the money (and if you can find one in good shape) go with the older ones. By the way I now have 279,878 Miles on it now WITHOUT any major issues. Also the older body style's (in my opinion) look better. Just my 2 cents.