New XJ owner needs maintenance advice.

Hey everyone. Just bought a 99 Cherokee with 110,000 miles and a 4.0 liter. I want to get this vehicle in tip top shape before I start driving it for my daily vehicle. What maintenance should I do to ensure I get years of service from her? She idles nice right now.

Change everything. Restart your maintenance calendar from that point.

Pretty much what I do.

Here's a list (probably partial - I usually do this without thinking...)
Full fluid/filter change
Radiator flush, hoses and thermostat after
Accessory drive belt
Ignition Tune-Up (cap, rotor, plugs, wires)
Heater Hoses
Check/replace power steering hoses
Clean engine and check thoroly for leaks. Valve Cover Gasket and Oil Sump Pan gasket leaks are common - I've posted instructions on replacement a few times, and searching for my posts will help you.
Check/change universal joints as required
Check gears for unusual wear while changing gear oil
Check transmission/transfer case fluid for burning (should drain bright red, or close to it.)

Remember, the AMC242 engine (4.0L inline six) likes to have SIX quarts of oil per change, not five. The AW4 automatic takes four quarts of Dexron II/III for a service change (and it don't like synthetic,) and the transfer case should take something like two to two and a half quarts of Dexron II/III (synthetic may be used here, but I've not gotten reports from the field on this. For simplicity, I just use the same stuff that goes into my automatic transmission. Check your rear axle cover for a tag that says something to the effect of "Use Limited Slip Diff Lube Only" or similar - if you see it, you MUST buy Limited Slip Friction Modifier (a well-stocked parts house should have some.) Mix according to the instructions on the bottle, or just add two ounces to your differential before filling up with oil. Alternatively, just mix it with your entire stock of gear oil - if it's needed, you're good. If you put it somewhere you don't need it, you won't do any harm. With five XJs and two LSDs, I just add it to everything and don't worry about what goes where...

Also, take the time to check torque on your manifold bolts about once a year. It takes about an hour or so, it's not wasted effort, and manifold loosening is just about THE most common cause of vacuum leaks and rough idling/poor power on the inline six. The bolts should take a 9/16" socket, and getting the socket from Sears with the inbuilt universal joint won't go amiss. Torque on the bolts is, as I recall, 21 pound-feet (if you don't have a torque wrench, get at least a small one. You'll also need a small one on valve cover gasket and oil sump gasket repalcement - you really don't want to guess on these.)

One last bit - find yourself a decent notebook, and keep your maintenance log in it. That's something else I have around - one notebook for each vehicle (and each vehicle does have its own dog tags - one on its notebook, one on its spare keys, and one of each on my own keyring, for reference. And yes, they all have names...)

Anything else?

5-90

A nice list of things that can be done not to expensively.

1. spark plugs (use champion only)
2. wires (use dealer)
3. distributor cap and rotor (use dealer)
4. change oil and filter (use mopar, bosch, wix or purolator)
5. drain tranny fluid and replace/clean tranny filter and fill with mercon/dexron III fluid
6. check vacuum lines
7. remove throttle body assy and clean, clean IAC motor and tps lightly.
8. replace o2 sensor
9. flush coolant and replace fresh 50/50 mix.

good luck
pete

jeepsrock said:

A nice list of things that can be done not to expensively.

1. spark plugs (use champion only)
2. wires (use dealer)
3. distributor cap and rotor (use dealer)
4. change oil and filter (use mopar, bosch, wix or purolator)
5. drain tranny fluid and replace/clean tranny filter and fill with mercon/dexron III fluid
6. check vacuum lines
7. remove throttle body assy and clean, clean IAC motor and tps lightly.
8. replace o2 sensor
9. flush coolant and replace fresh 50/50 mix.

good luck
pete

Click to expand...

1) Why Champion only? I use nothing but Autolite Platinum plugs - which seem to work better than Champion (and I get better emissions numbers...) I haven't used Champions since I had a set explode (literally!) in my '66 Bug years ago...

2) MSD makes excellent wires, and I believe they have a kit for the 4.0. Granted, I'm about due for another roll of bulk wire, but I like to take the DIY approach, and make things a little cleaner than stock.

3) Distributor Cap and Rotor - Borg-Warner works well for me. It has brass terminals on the cap and rotor, and costs about half of what the dealer wants. I don't usually go OEMR unless I just can't find it anywhere else.

4) Baldwin filters are my first choice, Wix my second. Wix should be findable pretty much anywhere, and I think the NAPA house brand is Wix (but ask. If they don't know, spend the extra money on Wix. Don't ask "Are your filters made by Wix?" ask "Who makes your filters?" Leading questions are more likely to get the answer you're looking for, whether it's correct or not...)

5) Correct. Clean the filter the first time (no need to replace it outright - it's just a strainer,) and every third or fourth time afterwards. The pan does have a drain plug. I like to put a magnet in the drain pan and let the fluid drain over it - if the magnet comes out "fuzzy," I'll drop the pan and take a closer look.

7) BE CAREFUL cleaning the tbody - the TPS does NOT like to get wet! Definitely remove it to clean, and I find that carburettor cleaner or acetone, and a toothbrush for scrubbing, work quite well. This only needs to be done every few years, so detail pays.

9) The cooling system should, in fact, be flushed and the coolant replaced about every other year. DO NOT use tap water, or you might as well not flush the system. Distilled or "reverse osmosis" filtered water is just fine - you should be able to get a 5-gallon or so water jug, and you can fill it at the coin-op machines (it's what I do.) Don't use "drinking water" unless it's distilled or R/O filtered - otherwise, there are dissolved solids and dissolved metals that will deposit within your system and degrade its efficiency. The same tip goes for batteries, when you can refill the cells. Tap water can (and usually will) cause the battery cells to short out internally, and I've seen this happen. If you have to use tap water in an emergency, plan to get a new battery soon. Why take chances?

Apart from that, Pete has given you good advice (I think we just need to work on details and flexibility...:lecture:

5-90

Thanks for all the advice. I will start on everything today. the one thing that worries me is the trans fluid is not cherry red right now. I hope i am not heading towards trans problems.

you would amazed at the abuse that AW4's can handle, mine wasn't "pristine" when changed but performs like a champ.Pound for pound I don't think you can find a better eng/trans combo,together they make for one hell of "workhorse". Good luck with your XJ, you should get years of faithful service out of it.

Cherry Red tranny fluid is only when it's brand spankin new. Once it gets some miles on it it will lose the cherry color, but will still be just fine. When it starts to match the color of your engine oil and has a burnt smell to it is when you should start to worry. And if the tranny is shifting well right now and not giving you any trouble, chances are everything is fine.

I just bought a 97 with 92,000 on it, light hit in the front. Beyond collision damage which did the radiator, I'm this deep in:

1. Radiator
2. All hoses
3. New water pump
4. New coil springs in front
5. New leaf springs in back
6. New shocks all around
7. New upper control arms / bushings
8. New lower control arms / bushings
9. New muffler / tailpipe, may expand to catalytic converter and O2 sensor.
10. New tires, all four corners.
11. New condenser coil in front (old was distorted from collision)
12. New universal joints (all)
13. Pinion seals on front and rear axles.

My goal is to get it ready for the next 100,000 miles. I had a 2000 model that I'd bought in 2002 with 35,000 miles, it was going strong at 110,000 last summer when my son rolled and totaled it on the street. He does not get to drive this one.

Mark

Don't forget that fuel filter. Accel makes some decent caps, rotors, and plug wires. The Mobil 1 M301 oil filter is a good one for our XJs also. I run the double plat autolites as well and Magnecor 8.5kv wires(a lil fancy).

No need to worry about the fuel filter unless you have a fuel delivery problem. The fuel filter on your 1999 is part of the fuel filter assembly (pump/regulator/filter) which is inside of your gas tank.

Lots of good advice here though for what to do. FLUIDS, FLUIDS, FLUIDS. Did I mention change fluids? They are the lifeblood of any vehicle.

The Jeep XJ drivetrain is as solid as they come. Enjoy your XJ! :eeks1: