Better Braking

Besides converting the Rear drums to disc brakes or changing out the fronts to WJ brakes, what are some other options for upgrading braking system that don't involve such involved of modifications.

For those who have done a TSM Mfg rear brake upgrade, would you do it again? I've read bad and good so far.

I have not done the TSM myself, but a fellow who did it on his FSJ said the kit was excellent. Complete and quite easy to install with the right tools.
Other options, you can always get better pads, and replace the parts with new ones. maybe try a driveline brake instead?
My dad switched out his rear drums for ZJ disks. He did it in an afternoon (then again he is a master fabricator). I am not sure how he did it, only that he loves the difference.
Buck.

I haven't done it yet, but the 8.25 going into my rig is getting ZJ disc's on it. Theres a few guys round here running that and they say it made a world of diffrence both on the trail and street. If you look around, I'm sure theres some writeups on it.
For the price of finding some used ZJ hardware, you cant go wrong. Unless you buy all new parts, which will make the TSM kit a good idea. I got my parts from a ZJ owner swapping the D35 (thats where my disc's came from) out for something better. I also like that fact that I'm keeping all Jeep parts on my rig.

i drained the fluid in the system and used synthetic....i really noticed a difference....

synthetic fluid, upgraded pads and shoes, change all rubber lines to steel braded...
Billy

I removed the seal from the proportioning valve on mine. Now the rears actually work! HUGE difference, but if I blow a brakeline, I lose ALL my brakes instead of just one axle.

Jaredatriot:

Did the same here...ALMOST locks up 35's

-Red

DeadEyeJ said:

I removed the seal from the proportioning valve on mine. Now the rears actually work! HUGE difference, but if I blow a brakeline, I lose ALL my brakes instead of just one axle.

Jaredatriot:

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I'll comment on TSM from both mine and wheeling buddy's experience. For larger axles the TSM conversion works well - i.e. all applications using the 1978 caddy calipers (D60,D70, 14 bolt and 9 inch, i believe). My friend runs the conversion on his rear D70, had great stopping power and a functional ebrake.

On the other hand, I have a TSM conversion, which I bought based on my buddy's experiences, on my rear Scout II D44 in my XJ. This kit uses 1979 caddy calipers, which are substantially smaller. Braking is improved from stock drums, but the e-brake plain old SUCKS. No matter how many times I adjust it, it just won't hold on any kind of hill, and eventually stops working.

If you are putting the conversion in a pre-95 with a single diaphram booster, I would strongly recommend upgrading to the 95-96 booster. When I ran this set up in my 91 it made a world of difference.


Also, while Skip @TSM is a pretty cool guy, the other dude that works there is an ass. I had the wrong set of caliper spacers included in my kit. After several telephone conversations, they agreed to ship me new spacers, at my cost! As I was about to be stranded in the boonies (wyoming), I had to have the proper spacer machined, again at my expense. TSM's response was that wasn't their fault - too bad. Anyways, not the best customer service in the business. just my 2 cents...

DeadEyeJ said:

I removed the seal from the proportioning valve on mine. Now the rears actually work! HUGE difference, but if I blow a brakeline, I lose ALL my brakes instead of just one axle.

Jaredatriot:

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Where is the seal and how do you remove it? I know the brakes suck on mine and I'd like to try that.
Mike Harris

xj-grin said:

If you are putting the conversion in a pre-95 with a single diaphram booster, I would strongly recommend upgrading to the 95-96 booster. When I ran this set up in my 91 it made a world of difference....

Click to expand...

Is the booster upgrade an easy install or is there anything special involved?

search, or check out the writeup at www.madxj.com

If you get a 95-96 (as opposed to 97 or later) t isn't hard, just have to bend up some new lines. Otherwise, the pedal rod has to be swapped - can't speak to that...

tireroastin93XJ said:

Where is the seal and how do you remove it? I know the brakes suck on mine and I'd like to try that.
Mike Harris

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There is a rectangular aluminum piece below the brake master cylinder with brake lines going in and out of it. Pull out the bolt/plug thing on the front side of it. Some stuff comes out of the hole with it. Remove the black, round seal and put everything else back in the way you found it. You should bleed the brakes after this, but I never could get any air to come out of the system after doing this. They work great.

BTW - this is a quick mod I did like 6 months ago with somebody showing me how the whole time. I remember the basic idea of it, but some of the above details may be somewhat off. If it sucks, just put it back together the right way and you're no worse off than before.

Jaredatriot:

"black, round seal" = the o-ring removal that is mentioned on just about every rear disks thread these days.