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Lockup override switch. As in prevention.

M

Mach2nh

NAXJA Forum User
Location
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I want to prevent the trans from going into lockup with a switch. To do this i figured i would just intercept the wire going to the module from the brake switch and toss a switch in. The brake switch grounds when off the pedal and when you press the brake that connection is interrupted. Taking the trans out of lockup. My switch interrupts that link regardless of brake pedal position.

Ok so thats the tech behind what im doing.

When the trans goes into lockup i flip my switch and the trans drops out of locked like o wanted. But after a few seconds goes back into lockup. wtf? After the trans locks up again with my switch still in the"off" position my brake pedal no longer takes it back out of lockup. So my switch is working to interrupt that ground signal. I just cant figure out why it will go back into lockup a few seconds later. If i was to just ride the brake pedal to trip the switch it will come out of lockup and stay out till i let go the pedal. Funky....
 
Year would help.
 
I know the trans wont override a brake press signal and stay in lockup on its own. Just can figure out what else is commanding it. I have the wiring schematic and i do not have cruse control. And have eliminated the cruse control circuit from the brake switch. I see that down the line from the brake switch is a few splice ins but that shouldn't affect what im doing because im way before that in the harness. Im working right at the switch.
 
I'm curious as to why do you want to prevent the torque converter from locking up? It can cause overheating and lower mileage .
What advantage is to be gained?
 
lazyxj said:
I'm curious as to why do you want to prevent the torque converter from locking up? It can cause overheating and lower mileage .
What advantage is to be gained?
Click to expand...

Over heating wont be a problem and fuel mileage went down with even the idea of lifting a XJ.

Just dont want it to lockup when it wants and only when i want.
 
Mach2nh said:
Over heating wont be a problem and fuel mileage went down with even the idea of lifting a XJ.
Just dont want it to lockup when it wants and only when i want.
Click to expand...

AW4s suffer enough from overheating without adding another source of heat, letting the torque converter spin all the time is going to add heat and kill the mileage .
I still have no idea why you would want to do this and what the benefit is.
In 16 years on the forum, I do not remember anyone doing this. Let us in on the secret.
 
Look im well aware of the aw4 short comings with its little converter being a heat generator. And the other heat problems the XJ has and the reduction in mileage due to a constant converter "slip" state. Another reason why posting looking for insight is my last resort. Im looking for information pertaining to the triggers of lockup so I can disable them thats all.
 
I think you should educate yourself more on the AW4. I do not know of any "short-comings", except needing a good trans-cooler. My motor puts out +325hp and gets 16mpg and runs cool in our 120* weather here in Az. If you need anything more than that I suggest you look for a NV3550!
 
RCP Phx said:
I think you should educate yourself more on the AW4. I do not know of any "short-comings", except needing a good trans-cooler. My motor puts out +325hp and gets 16mpg and runs cool in our 120* weather here in Az. If you need anything more than that I suggest you look for a NV3550!
Click to expand...

Maybe you should read the post and then you would see you stated the very problem. The need for a good cool due to the aw4 a big heat generator. +325hp? Neat?

Anyone want to add the classic "i have been a tech for 50yrs" reply next?
 
Do I count? I opened my off-road shop back in '77!
 
Mach2nh said:
+325hp?
Click to expand...

This is from Russ P back in '17.

Russ Pottenger said:
A few of my thoughts to hopefully add some clarity and address some misconceptions.

Ron contacted me and started this thread with the purpose of building a 4.6 stroker based off a late-model coil pack head with the goal of making good low-end torque with a emphasis on reliability and to easily pass smog.

The engine consists of a Scat 3.985 stroke Crankshaft with a set of my steel bushed connecting rods, Bishop-Buehl/RaceTec 4032 forged pistons. The 0331 head is fully ported with stainless Chevy LS valves and springs, Harland Sharp rollers along with a very conservative Comp cam grind. The iIntake is port matched and opened up to except a 62 mm throttlebody.

I spoke with Mike at Lopers Performance today to clarify questions that I had along with giving me some feedback. He said that Ron nailed it with the choice of 27 pound injectors and confirmed that he made a high gear runs that netted 227HP and 396TQ to the rear wheels putting flywheel horse power at just over 300HP without having to go to 4000 RPM.
Mike said with more pulls and trimming the fuel the power and torque would've increased further.

At this point Ron's objectives were met and no more pulls or changes needed to be made.
Ron is still running his stock exhaust pipe, catalytic converter and muffler.

Don't hesitate to call me if anybody has any questions or would like to discuss stroker kit packages

Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]
Click to expand...
 
You are most definitely on the wrong path here in forcing your converter to stay unlocked. There are a few reasons to do so but you don't appear to be down that road at all. Take the advice of the others here.

That said, you don't want to mess with the triggers, you want to interrupt the signal wire that actually locks it up.
 
cal said:
You are most definitely on the wrong path here in forcing your converter to stay unlocked. There are a few reasons to do so but you don't appear to be down that road at all. Take the advice of the others here.

That said, you don't want to mess with the triggers, you want to interrupt the signal wire that actually locks it up.
Click to expand...

Im on the path i want to be on. And if you play with the signal between the computer and the trans you will trip a light when it commands lockup but doesn't see it.
 
cal said:
You are most definitely on the wrong path here in forcing your converter to stay unlocked. There are a few reasons to do so but you don't appear to be down that road at all. Take the advice of the others here.

That said, you don't want to mess with the triggers, you want to interrupt the signal wire that actually locks it up.
Click to expand...

Well said Cal.

Way back when, over 15 years ago there was a posting here on how to keep the converter unlocked. This was done via the wires between the TCM and the AW4. I did this mod in an attempt to gain a gear between 4 and 3 and about 150 RPM. There was a toggle switch in the dash to do this. That was because of the then gear ratio and tire size which caused gear hunting on some of those long hills in the North East.

Today, that switch is long gone. For me, the most efficient way is to properly match the gear ratio verses tire size. Manually shifting to 3rd and gaining over drive is a much more efficient way (when needed).
 
Mach2nh said:
Im on the path i want to be on. And if you play with the signal between the computer and the trans you will trip a light when it commands lockup but doesn't see it.
Click to expand...

You should have turned left at the "yellow brick road"!
 
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