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Lengthen a Rubicon Express RE1660 trackbar

lordoeuf

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver Island
I have a '99 XJ with 5.5" of lift. I have an RE1660 HD trackbar with the RE1665 trackbar bracket. Rubicon Express' website says that it can accomodate 4-6" of lift and that it has "more length adjustability than other bars." It has been installed for 15 years on my '99 XJ with 5.5" of lift. The axle has always been about 1/2" out of centre when on level ground. The trackbar is fully extended, with a few threads grabbing inside the tube (I don't recall how many, perhaps somewhere in the 1/8" to 1/2" range). I just remember not feeling safe extending it any further. Is there any way to get more length out of this trackbar to centre the axle? Is Rubicon Express over selling the lift range of their product?

I figure that if I had a piece of threaded rod and a long sleeve, I can add length to the existing trackbar. Is there a better way to do this? Can Rusty's trackbar w/bracket (RC-TB200-UV) really accommodate 4-8" of lift? If so, why wouldn't Rubicon Express just make their trackbar a little longer? I e-mailed Rubicon Express about this issue, but no reply as of yet. I'm seeking assistance from the community. Thanks.
 
Rubicon Express used to sell a longer super-flex end. If they don't have any more contact me as I have 2 new ones here.
 
They are also "female" threads.
 
I only see "loaded" joints now as opposed to the "shells" I bought back when.
https://frsport.com/super-flex-coupler-rod-end1819499
P1080888.JPG
 
Full of thumb on minimum engagement of threads is diameter of threads.
Example a 1.25 heim should have 1.25 inches of thread engagement. .75 heim should have .75 thread engagement.

I think ironman4x4 has female flex joints if I recall correctly... Just another option.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Why try to re-invent the wheel? There is a exact fit part vs anything else you need to get correct thread size and length/Correct joint width and center bolt size!
 
Oh look at those ends - they are 1" longer. Mine are only 2.25". Did my trackbar come with too short of a joint end on accident? Looking back at my e-mails from 2005, it looks like my trackbar came with the wrong end. They sent a replacement, but the width of the ball ends were wrong. They had to resend it yet again. So is the joint end casing supposed to be 3.25" or 2.25" long?

I do not remember how much thread I have inside the tube, it has been 15 years. Without taking it all apart, I have 1.3" of exposed thread as it sits installed. The lock nut is 0.5". So that is 1.8" of thread not in the tube. If we know the total length of the [male] threading, we can calculate how much is in the tube.

Rubicon Express did not reply to me concerning this. From my experience with them, if they are going to reply it is within 24-hrs.

How do I get ahold of one of these longer shell casings? Is that loaded joint you referenced, RE3768-1, the one with the 3.25" housing?
 
The short ends were factory, I had the exact issue as you so I ordered the +1" ends about 15yrs ago. I called RE this morning and they do not sell just the shells anymore alone. The RE 3768 is the longer +1" end.
 
There you go! I thought that was it, my link was just a example. The factory bolt with that set-up is a 10mm.
 
Full of thumb on minimum engagement of threads is diameter of threads.
Example a 1.25 heim should have 1.25 inches of thread engagement. .75 heim should have .75 thread engagement.

I think ironman4x4 has female flex joints if I recall correctly... Just another option.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I measured the threads on the OTK Ironman Trackbar I have. They are 1-1/4 threads.
 
The 1" longer Rubicon Express joint end arrived today and I installed it. I had been running the original joint end with only about 3 threads engaged, or about 3/16". I had it that way for 15 years and I beat on it pretty hard. Are you sure it needs to have the full 1" length of threads engaged in the joint end (1" being the bar's diameter)? I was pretty sure a mechanic told me that you need at least half a diameter engaged, not a full diameter, but that was in reference to the control arms, not the track bar.

With a full inch of the bar going into the tube end, I am only gaining 3/16" distance that I can move the axle towards the passenger side. I moved it a 1/4" over, meaning that 15/16" is engaged in the tube, but I'd like to move it another 1/8" over, meaning that only 13/16" will be engaged.

Anyone have any trouble (damage) running an adjustable trackbar with less than the full diameter engaged into the joint end? Thanks.
 
Are you sure your axle is centered? My list is almost indentical to yours.
 
I don't have an alignment shop, so I am going by a few things. First is the angle of the JKS disconnects in relation to the PS and DS. Moving the axle 1/4" towards PS definitely improved the JKS disconnect angles, and I think another 1/8" will make them symmetrical.

The other thing I'm using is a level. I set the level up vertical from the top of the tyre's sidewall, when the bubble is in the middle, I measure the horizontal distance from the level to the Bushwacker cut-out fender flares. Driver's side is at about a 7/8" gap while passenger's side is only at 3/8" gap. Another 1/8" should close this up a bit better.

Perhaps I have a little more than 5.5" lift in the front, I don't know. I know the ACOS on the passenger's side had to be adjusted about 1" longer than DS to get the front leveled out. Rear is definitely at 5.5" lift, that is unless Rubicon Express' leaf springs are taller than advertised. In the rear I have 3.5" RE leafs with a 1.5" teraflex shackle, and 1/2" blocks. Rear PS has an extra 3/8" block to level the vehicle due to my Kaymar swing out tyre carrier putting all the weight on the PS rear bumper.
 
I had been running the original joint end with only about 3 threads engaged, or about 3/16". I had it that way for 15 years and I beat on it pretty hard.

Then consider yourself lucky. This is one example why I tell my wife to never get behind a lifted XJ on the freeway :)

General rule of thumb is one thread dia MINIMUM, some mfgr's and suppliers recommend 1.5 thread dia minimum...
http://www.rodend.net/Custom-Machining-Parts/FAQ/minimum.html

I moved it a 1/4" over, meaning that 15/16" is engaged in the tube, but I'd like to move it another 1/8" over, meaning that only 13/16" will be engaged.
Don't do this, especially on a critical suspension part on a vehicle that you drive with others on the road.

Anyone have any trouble (damage) running an adjustable trackbar with less than the full diameter engaged into the joint end? Thanks.

Yes, not a trackbar but one example here and I'm sure there are others...
see last post
https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/1-25-heim-thread-engagement-how-much.661273/
 
I doubt it was merely luck; I am an inherently unlucky person.

From what I could tell, there's only 1" of threading in the tube itself, so I can't see how going more than 1" would make any difference. Also, Rubicon Express stated 1" in an e-mail. I was hoping for some more anecdotal accounts of failures for less than a full diameter of engagement on a trackbar on a lifted Cherokee.
 
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