beater!

awesome. Let me know how those metalcloak coils work for you. I've been interested in swapping mine out for those progressive ones.

xcalibur223 said:

awesome. Let me know how those metalcloak coils work for you. I've been interested in swapping mine out for those progressive ones.

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Working great, handles fine on the highway, comfortable on the trail. Very impressed with them so far.

Finished wrenching last Friday, drove to Rausch for the NAC meetup on Saturday. The Jeep performed really well the whole day, no problems at all except when I tried to take a stupid line on yellow jacket; changed the line and walked right up it.



After the drive up and back and the day of wheeling, the front and rear are both sitting right at 6" using the dirty lift measures. I assume they are going to settle more, want to end up around 5.5" on both.

Did some more minor work on it, have a lot more to do over the winter.

Eric, do you have more pics of those Clayton shackles?

ericsennert said:

Eric, do you have more pics of those Clayton shackles?

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What do you want to see?

Made one last trip to Rausch Creek and AOAA on the 29th and 30th. Ran some trails that were new to me at both. This is on the back side of Shoot the Moon--rear wheel off the ground so still need to work on that.



Working on the front D44 and doing some repairs. I installed the Clayton sway bar links while I was doing the lift, but had forgotten to get an insert for the TRE flip, so I got a Synergy and installed it last weekend. Replaced the stock LCA mounts with Clayton pieces (including skids) today.



While I was monkeying with that stuff I also clearanced the stock coil buckets / shock mounts for the Synergy adjuster clamp bolt, which let me flip the longarms into a high-clearance position.



There's not a lot of uptravel available to the Synergy arms on the SFR brackets. Will have to test and see how it goes. May have to flip them back.



Have a planned trip on Feb 9 and need to make a few repairs to other things, no time for more mods until after that.

Rock2pus said:

I've seen hilti epoxy fasten steel studs into a dusty hole drilled into a 100 year old brick wall that held up to 300# of force within 15 minutes, so don't underestimate the power of that technology.
That said, given flexural stress and weather conditions over time, I'm not going to be the guy who'd bet his butt on it. Welding is still the best answer to this.

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Ok, been meaning to come back to this but been busy.

The instructions for those Iron Man hangers say they install with both bolts and welds (see the photos on the web page, they each have 8-9 bolts going into the floor/framerail).

The confusion came in because it appears Eric used only the welds (due to his floors), so it appears you guys thought I was asking if glue-only was acceptable in place of weld-only.

I may just toss the question at Iron Man and see what they think, but I wanted to clear up the matter of exactly what I was asking here...

Rob I had some plates cut for the inside of the floorboard, figure they would act as weld points for a cage at some point. I just haven't bolted them in yet. Not really addresses your question, but wanted to resolve the question of why I haven't used the bolts

Last year I picked up a couple of doors from an '86 with the optional tow mirrors. I am always smashing the stock style mirrors on trees, so I am hoping that these will fold flat against the door instead of being shaved off. These were only offered up until 1990 (more commonly found on MJs than XJs), so kind of hard to find.



There is an internal support bracket that keeps the mirror from vibrating, you can see it in the parts catalog below. However I didn't realize they were there until after I had drilled holes in my existing door skin, and I am pretty sure they won't line up now.



Instead I made some small plates from 1/16th sheet



Stainless hardware on the outside. Goes good with all the other polished metal bits. Check out the dummy plate that covers the stock mirror triangle.



View from the inside, large mirrors to see everything behind me! The wing window clears easily



Unfortunately the mechanical joints on these things are rusty as hell and are seized up pretty hard. I was able to wiggle them loose with PB Blaster and some heat but one of them is flopping around now and I'm not able to tighten it (seized hardware). So I only have one that works right now. I believe these were licensed from Ford, so I am going to try to find replacements with the same hole pattern. Otherwise I will have to scrounge partouts.

Possible to make those mirrors a quick release at it's pivot points?

OverlandZJ said:

Possible to make those mirrors a quick release at it's pivot points?

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might be able to drill them out and replace with lock nuts

ehall said:

might be able to drill them out and replace with lock nuts

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I would think that if you put in some nylon washers between the brackets and mirrors you could drill them out and just run bolts / wingnuts and take them off on the trail.

probably need lock nuts to maintain proper tension. I cut the bad one apart, need to drill the upper pin out, will see how it all goes

pretty easy hardware job on the mirrors, need a longer top screw but otherwise all setup from the local Ace Hardware



Still have one mirror flopping around on the ball stud, screws are frozen and can't adjust. I'll mess with it some more later, maybe replace the glass

Looks good, but your rig needs some olive drab.

Went to AOAA for a couple of days, got to test the suspension tweaks. Very pleased with the performance, except with the noted restraints.



Also stopped in to Centralia, not much there but its off the list finally



I smacked the crap out of the mirrors and they just folded flat against the door with no damage to anything. Need to work on the uppers still.

I found a Ford forum that had some diagrams and instructions on rebuilding the mirrors. I was planning to heat the glass and adhesive but there is plastic trim around the glass that I was concerned would melt. Instead I used my old impact driver to free up the two screws that hold the tension plate over the ball, once I got the screws unstuck I was able to clean it all up easily without fully disassembling.



I've had the driver for over a decade but this was the first time I've ever successfully used it on a job

Nice job..

Those drivers are a required tool for CJ/YJ and FJ-40 owners from my experience..

A little snow wheeling in GWNF



I smacked the hell out of the mirrors several times and they just folded right over, no damage at all

Awesome shot! VA?


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