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need alternator,01 xj, meen green?

Pretty much mid 90's durango, dakota, ZJ's of comparable models had the 136A alternators. I have one installed in my 01 XJ right now and it just takes some grinding on the bracket to fit the larger alternator but works just fine. But like everyone says it's highly recommended to upgrade your cables. I believe though that the 00-01 XJ's came with a 117A alternator so the 136A upgrade shouldn't "require" new cables but it never hurts.
 
Fastdemise said:
so the 136A upgrade shouldn't "require" new cables but it never hurts.
Click to expand...

It does require new cables.
If you're going to swap in a high amp alternator, you'll need to upgrade the battery cables to get the most performance from your alternator.

Other wise, your inline fuse is only rated at what your factory amp is rated at, so by throwing in a larger alternator, you'll blow that fuse and line because your new alternator will draw more amps.

Upgraded Battery Cables:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=994908
 
Anybody know what the par number/model number is for the 136 amp?

There is a sticker and a number on the side of my friend's Denso alternator...he has a 1996 5.2 ZJ Limited. Trying to fingure out what it has.
 
The later model XJ have the voltage reg in the ECU. I don't remember what the change over year is but this should be keep in mind when upgrading.
 
badron said:
The later model XJ have the voltage reg in the ECU. I don't remember what the change over year is but this should be keep in mind when upgrading.
Click to expand...

1990/1991

1984-1986 had the Delco 12SI, internally-regulated.
1987-1990 had the Delco CS130, internally-regulated.
1991-2001 used the Nippondenso (I don't know the model number,) which had the regulator in the PCM.

NB: The reason why grinding is usually indicated in the event of the 136A "ZJ/WJ/Durango" upgrade is simple - the 136A frame is larger than even the 117A frame. Grind the mounting to clear (I've been told you only need about a quarter-inch to get clearance - if you can slip a sheet of paper between the alternator case and the engine, you're good,) but try to not modify where the thing bolts down - so if you need to replace it with an OEM unit in a hurry, you can do just that.
 
booked marked for the great knowledge.
 
higgsxjyar said:
"mains upgrade"???
Click to expand...

upgrade the cables. the tried and true on here is http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

JeepFreak21 said:
Mean Green's customer service is about the worst I've experienced. I wouldn't ever try to do business with them again.

I think the Grand Cherokee alternator is an upgrade for Cherokees, but I'm not sure what's required in the swap. You might check into that.

Billy
Click to expand...

the swap is really quite simple. the plastic piece on the back has to be swapped and the stock alt bracket needs to be clearnaced. more on that later

Blaine B. said:
Suposidely the alternator out of a 98 Grand Cherokee is 136 amp and is pretty much a bolt in to the XJ. Not sure if the motor matters though! 4.0, 4.7? Dunno..

I heard that the ZJ alternators were always either 90 amp (mainly) or rarely 120 amp. Which is the same as XJ, you could have got them with a 120 amp.
Click to expand...

the V8 ZJ alt is 136 amp not 120. and yes, it needs to be for a V8. the one i got was for a 98 5.2L V8 ZJ

5-90 said:
1990/1991

1984-1986 had the Delco 12SI, internally-regulated.
1987-1990 had the Delco CS130, internally-regulated.
1991-2001 used the Nippondenso (I don't know the model number,) which had the regulator in the PCM.

NB: The reason why grinding is usually indicated in the event of the 136A "ZJ/WJ/Durango" upgrade is simple - the 136A frame is larger than even the 117A frame. Grind the mounting to clear (I've been told you only need about a quarter-inch to get clearance - if you can slip a sheet of paper between the alternator case and the engine, you're good,) but try to not modify where the thing bolts down - so if you need to replace it with an OEM unit in a hurry, you can do just that.
Click to expand...

the grinding that needs to be done on the stock alt bracket is to clearance for the new alts larger housing. the mounting points remain the same and thus "backwards compatability" is maintained. the areas to clearance is mainly on the aluminium bracketry between alt and the engine. and if you need to run a stock alt you still can.

edit: some links that may proove helpful
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2004/jeepalt/
i thought that i had more but thats all that i can find at the moment
 
Last edited:
lol everyone posts that link, but says nothing about the clearance. Seems it was a bolt up on a TJ. I am going to get a ZJ 136 and do a write up I guess, still unclear where to grind, as there is the alterator bracket, and the racket mouted to the block...
 
Yeah, a little insight on the grinding would be extremely helpful!! I've been in the market for a larger alternator for quite some time now. This seems like the best bet so far!! Thanks much!!
 
I am sure there was a write up regarding the clearancing of the brackets to fit the 136 AMP alternator.

This is what I did to get mine to fit:

I remover the bracket from the engine. Using an angle grinder, I removed material until I could get both bolts through the alternator and into the bracket.

With the bracket re-attached to the engine, I again used the angle grinder to remove excess material from the block so the alternator would fit without touching the engine block. One need to excersise caution when grinding on the block so that too much material is not removed.

The isolator on the 136 AMP alternator need to be replaced with the one from the OEM (90 AMP) alternator. Upgrade the cables as needed. There are plenty of information here on how to upgrade the cables.
 
eleduardok said:
lol everyone posts that link, but says nothing about the clearance. Seems it was a bolt up on a TJ. I am going to get a ZJ 136 and do a write up I guess, still unclear where to grind, as there is the alterator bracket, and the racket mouted to the block...
Click to expand...

did you not read my fawking post!? i clearly said what was needed in regard to clearance

COSXJFAN said:
Yeah, a little insight on the grinding would be extremely helpful!! I've been in the market for a larger alternator for quite some time now. This seems like the best bet so far!! Thanks much!!
Click to expand...

same question!

stewie said:
the swap is really quite simple. the plastic piece on the back has to be swapped and the stock alt bracket needs to be clearnaced. more on that later...

the grinding that needs to be done on the stock alt bracket is to clearance for the new alts larger housing. the mounting points remain the same and thus "backwards compatability" is maintained. the areas to clearance is mainly on the aluminium bracketry between alt and the engine. and if you need to run a stock alt you still can.
Click to expand...
 
Got the cables and ANL already, just needed some insight on the grinding. By isolator, you mean the black boot thingy that the cable goes into? I am a plumber not an electrician. ;) Also, the new main cable goes to the black boot with the singled out cable? Its a 95 country with A/C, which makes it all a pita. I know I will have to open up the black isolator thing for the 5-90 cables I got. Heck, the grounds made a HUGE difference. Top notch stuff. Ed

edit: Stewie, oops missed that one, sorry. Thanks for the info.
 
Last edited:
stewie said:
the swap is really quite simple. the plastic piece on the back has to be swapped and the stock alt bracket needs to be clearnaced. more on that later
the V8 ZJ alt is 136 amp not 120. and yes, it needs to be for a V8. the one i got was for a 98 5.2L V8 ZJ
the grinding that needs to be done on the stock alt bracket is to clearance for the new alts larger housing. the mounting points remain the same and thus "backwards compatability" is maintained. the areas to clearance is mainly on the aluminium bracketry between alt and the engine. and if you need to run a stock alt you still can.
Click to expand...

I read your fawking post, and thanks for the road map bud!! I was simply asking for a little more insight, that's all, but thanks for helping!!:wave1:
 
eleduardok said:
Got the cables and ANL already, just needed some insight on the grinding. By isolator, you mean the black boot thingy that the cable goes into? I am a plumber not an electrician. ;) Also, the new main cable goes to the black boot with the singled out cable? Its a 95 country with A/C, which makes it all a pita. I know I will have to open up the black isolator thing for the 5-90 cables I got. Heck, the grounds made a HUGE difference. Top notch stuff. Ed

edit: Stewie, oops missed that one, sorry. Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

What is being called the "isolator" is probably what I refer to as the "insulator" - it's there to prevent contact between the output cable and the alternator case (dead short = electrical fire = Very Bad Thing(tm)).

And yes, the one post that is set aside is the output. The two posts with the common insulator are for the field coil - those you want to leave alone.
 
COSXJFAN said:
I read your fawking post, and thanks for the road map bud!! I was simply asking for a little more insight, that's all, but thanks for helping!!:wave1:
Click to expand...
Probably the best way to get more insight is to go out, hold your new alternator up to where it needs to bolt on, and see where there's interference.
 
Blaine B. said:
Is it only 98 ZJ that had the 136 amp with the 5.2 V8 or will older models work too? Also trim package? Or just Limited?
Click to expand...

I think it's 1998 and newer ZJ/WJ/WK w/V8 and Durango w/V8. Don't hold me to it - I need to find my Superior catalogue again...
 
I did this mod this past weekend using a 136Amp 98 Grand Cherokee 5.2L Alternator in my 92 XJ 4.0L.

For those who wanted to know the amount to trim off the stock bracket here are some pictures for you.

Bolt holes dont quite line up.


This is why they dont line up. Its a snug fit.


Here is what I marked with the Alternator on the Jeep. Hint...Take the bracketry off for a much easier time.


Grind...test fit...grind....test fit...grind sum more...it FITS..


Pic from the bottom


Material removed from the other bracket on the front of the engine.


DONE and DONE


Ask questions while the install is still fresh in my head. My Brains a fading fast lately. But it was as straight forward as everyone said.

BTW I upgraded the POS wire to a 2Gauge battery cable. :yelclap: Now with everything on(dual electric fans, radio blazing and my 100/130 H4 headlight swap) the volt meter stays at 14v solid.
 
j33pownr said:
I did this mod this past weekend using a 136Amp 98 Grand Cherokee 5.2L Alternator in my 92 XJ 4.0L.

For those who wanted to know the amount to trim off the stock bracket here are some pictures for you.

Bolt holes dont quite line up.


This is why they dont line up. Its a snug fit.


Here is what I marked with the Alternator on the Jeep. Hint...Take the bracketry off for a much easier time.


Grind...test fit...grind....test fit...grind sum more...it FITS..


Pic from the bottom


Material removed from the other bracket on the front of the engine.


DONE and DONE


Ask questions while the install is still fresh in my head. My Brains a fading fast lately. But it was as straight forward as everyone said.

BTW I upgraded the POS wire to a 2Gauge battery cable. :yelclap: Now with everything on(dual electric fans, radio blazing and my 100/130 H4 headlight swap) the volt meter stays at 14v solid.
Click to expand...


good work.

that was very nice of you.
 
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