Ok, so if you've been keeping up with the threads (Part one can be found here http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87959&highlight=front+fender+trim) this is part two of my fender trim work. So far I've gotten the front completely done and now we are on the rear. I've gotten the weekend off, so I'm not at work doing my trimming, so the background will be a tad different and I got a helper to take pictures (thanks sweetie) this time, so there are more on Fototime that I will be posting, so feel free to browse those if you get a chance, the linky is at the bottom of my signature.....so onto the trim.
First off, things you will need...
-Between 3-6 hours of spare time. It took us about 4 total with lunch in between.
-Safety glasses
-Gloves
-Cutting tool of some sort (I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel, but a dremel or an angle grinder would work just as easily)
-10mm deep well socket and wratchet
-Drill
-Drill bits
-Dikes, tin snips, or a razor blade
-Hammers to include a rubber or wooden mallet and a dead blow
-Silicone based caulking (designed for metal) or a similar form of sealant to keep water out of your pinch seam
-Painters tape or masking tape
-Paint of your choice
-A marker or something to write with
-Paper towels or news paper
-Sand paper or a sanding device of some sort
(optional)
-Jack and jack stands so you can remove your rear tires for easier access
-Tools to remove your rear tires
So now that we have all that we need, it is now time for you to decide if you are going to be trimming around the flare or if you are going to be relocating the flare. For my purposes, I chose to relocate the flare, moving it forward and up slightly to be flush with the door line. Once you've decided what you're going to do, its time to start.
Step 1.
Park your Jeep somewhere on level ground so your tools don't run away from you. Remove the rear flare liner by pulling it off of the bolts and removing the plastic retainer on the bottom front (throw it away, its nearly impossiable to reuse and very pointless). With your 10mm socket and wratchet, remove the rear flare. There are 5 nuts to remove that hold the flare on.
Step 2.
Now that you have the rear flare off, you will want to mask the area around the wheel well. This will allow you to protect the paint and also give you a sort of temporary canvas to brainstorm on. Now if you are deciding to relocate the flare, figure out where you want the flare to sit and push the flare onto the fender, pressing the bolts into the tape, marking where the new bolt holes are going to be. You'll want to check and make sure that you can drill into where you marked and that you will be able to put the nut on. The fender is closed beyond the wheel well and really shouldn't be messed with, so I suggest moving the flare in line with the door opening. It is about as high up as you an get it and still thread on the nuts and as far forward as it can go without preventing the door from shutting. Once you've marked the holes, go ahead and drill them.
Step 3.
Now you're gonna want to test fit the flare and figure out if you are happy with it. You'll want to trim the forward bottom tab off of the flare to get it to line up with the body flush if you're moving the flare up at all. A pair of dikes or tin snips will do fine to cut that. Once you're happy with the flare position, trace the outline of the flare onto the fender using your marker, making sure to mark where the rear of the flare stops so that you know where to start bending in, then set the flare aside and move onto the next part. At this point, make sure you know where the pinch welds are or you might be in for some serious body welding. It might be a good idea to remove some tape and be sure you know. Mark where you will be cutting the fender so that you know what to remove and where to cut. I chose to trim up to the pinch seam all the way around and then bend a portion in. So go ahead and mark and then get your cutting tools ready.
First off, things you will need...
-Between 3-6 hours of spare time. It took us about 4 total with lunch in between.
-Safety glasses
-Gloves
-Cutting tool of some sort (I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel, but a dremel or an angle grinder would work just as easily)
-10mm deep well socket and wratchet
-Drill
-Drill bits
-Dikes, tin snips, or a razor blade
-Hammers to include a rubber or wooden mallet and a dead blow
-Silicone based caulking (designed for metal) or a similar form of sealant to keep water out of your pinch seam
-Painters tape or masking tape
-Paint of your choice
-A marker or something to write with
-Paper towels or news paper
-Sand paper or a sanding device of some sort
(optional)
-Jack and jack stands so you can remove your rear tires for easier access
-Tools to remove your rear tires
So now that we have all that we need, it is now time for you to decide if you are going to be trimming around the flare or if you are going to be relocating the flare. For my purposes, I chose to relocate the flare, moving it forward and up slightly to be flush with the door line. Once you've decided what you're going to do, its time to start.
Step 1.
Park your Jeep somewhere on level ground so your tools don't run away from you. Remove the rear flare liner by pulling it off of the bolts and removing the plastic retainer on the bottom front (throw it away, its nearly impossiable to reuse and very pointless). With your 10mm socket and wratchet, remove the rear flare. There are 5 nuts to remove that hold the flare on.
Step 2.
Now that you have the rear flare off, you will want to mask the area around the wheel well. This will allow you to protect the paint and also give you a sort of temporary canvas to brainstorm on. Now if you are deciding to relocate the flare, figure out where you want the flare to sit and push the flare onto the fender, pressing the bolts into the tape, marking where the new bolt holes are going to be. You'll want to check and make sure that you can drill into where you marked and that you will be able to put the nut on. The fender is closed beyond the wheel well and really shouldn't be messed with, so I suggest moving the flare in line with the door opening. It is about as high up as you an get it and still thread on the nuts and as far forward as it can go without preventing the door from shutting. Once you've marked the holes, go ahead and drill them.
Step 3.
Now you're gonna want to test fit the flare and figure out if you are happy with it. You'll want to trim the forward bottom tab off of the flare to get it to line up with the body flush if you're moving the flare up at all. A pair of dikes or tin snips will do fine to cut that. Once you're happy with the flare position, trace the outline of the flare onto the fender using your marker, making sure to mark where the rear of the flare stops so that you know where to start bending in, then set the flare aside and move onto the next part. At this point, make sure you know where the pinch welds are or you might be in for some serious body welding. It might be a good idea to remove some tape and be sure you know. Mark where you will be cutting the fender so that you know what to remove and where to cut. I chose to trim up to the pinch seam all the way around and then bend a portion in. So go ahead and mark and then get your cutting tools ready.