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Adapting XJ stiffeners to MJs?

Root Moose

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ON, Canada
I know the MJ unirail structure is stronger than the XJ's but I can't leave well enough alone. Between towing a race car and having a slide in camper in the back I figure I better hedge my bets.

Anyone have some insight into what it is required to adapt XJ stiffeners to an MJ?

Is it matter of a cut here, bend there or do they just not work at all?
 
I know the MJ unirail structure is stronger than the XJ's but I can't leave well enough alone. Between towing a race car and having a slide in camper in the back I figure I better hedge my bets.

Anyone have some insight into what it is required to adapt XJ stiffeners to an MJ?

Is it matter of a cut here, bend there or do they just not work at all?

Stiffeners that go into the front wheel wells are the same but the frame rails are different and are a different shape.

I used 5" x 5" square box of which I drilled a million holes into and then split it into two 'L' shaped pieces of steel. I then spent the next two days fitting them and my suspension, hybrid cage and sliders all are attached to them.

I will look for some pics...
 
behind the firewall is different.

check colin's (moparmaniac) build thread in advance tech. he made some for his
 
I will see what I can do when I get home.
 
Ok....


Cut and drilled a pice of steel
IMG_2425.jpg


Cleaned up a frame rail
DSC01045.jpg


Spent a lot of time fitting it
DSC01066.jpg

DSC01049Small.jpg

DSC01049Small.jpg


And put a LCA on
DSC01194.jpg
 
behind the firewall is different.

Do you know if the normal H.D.Eng plates for the front frame horns still work?

I will see what I can do when I get home.

Thanks for the pictures. Very helpful.

You didn't bother taking the stiffeners much farther than the front leaf mount?
 
Yep, thanks.
 
You didn't bother taking the stiffeners much farther than the front leaf mount?

No and in retrospect I probably wouldn't do it either.

My setup was designed based on a full caged MJ. I cannot show you easily but I have tube running inside each of the rear wheel wells and up top. My chassis is very stiff beacuse of the plating/cage combo.

This is one of the only pictures I have handy but you can see the cage work (and a knuckle that broke....).

IMG_3569Medium.jpg
 
Yeah, I'm wondering if it is needed at - that's why I asked. The rear part of the frame under the box is pretty decent. That said, there are guys with high miles chassis and slide ins that have done it so I'm on the fence.
 
Yeah, I'm wondering if it is needed at - that's why I asked. The rear part of the frame under the box is pretty decent. That said, there are guys with high miles chassis and slide ins that have done it so I'm on the fence.

Yes, the frame is stiff back there. From what I have experienced, the issue is the flex as the frame transitions into the unibody.

Actually, I didn't realize it but if you take a look at that pic, you can see tubework in the rear wheel well.
 
Here is a link to a photbucket page detailing the stripping of my MJ frame,..

..,Here's another one showing all the plating work I did,..
Is this still a work in progress or is it finished?

Also curious what you did behind the cab. 'Got a build thread anywhere?
 
Regrettably this project is NOT finished. However, it's not scrapped either! I've got a million excuses why it's not finished, but whatever, it's not. I'm still pecking away on things a little at a time. The main build thread is in Advanced Fab listed as GM 5.3/4L60/Klune/Stak 300 or something like that. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=945920

I've not done ANYTHING behind the cab yet. :( As far as I've gotten in the rear is to build a rear crossmember and place it so that the driveshaft will clear it at full droop. Jeff
 
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