• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Weekend is over...what did you get done?

Does anyone have the number and sizes of the oil pan bolts for a renix 4.0L pan?
I am having to redo my RMS and oil pan even though it got done before I left TN and a few bolts were missing.
 
apparently most are 1/4-20 1/2" long and some are 5/16-18 3/4" long (iirc, the corners each have a 5/16 one.)

http://www.kelleyswip.com/screws.html is my first reference on this kind of thing unless it's something I already have memorized.
 
Thanks.

I have most of the bolts, but not all. I wanted to be doubly sure I get the correct bolts to put back in. I'm not particularly excited about this. Note to self: don't pay local members to do work for you, then move away from them.
 
basically anything that screws into the engine block is standard. Some of the stuff that bolts to the intake manifold is metric, most everything that bolts to the transmission is metric (except the external slave, off the top of my head, and some of the starter bolts?), most things on the transfer case are standard but a few aren't, almost all the body/suspension stuff is metric, and almost everything inside the front axle is standard. Rear axle IIRC is mostly metric.
 
Would it have killed them to pick ONE type? I'd prefer all metric, but seriously...if they did all standard i'd still be cool with it. It's the mix-matched half and half that drives me nuts!
 
Well, the engine design is from the 70s or earlier IIRC... or grew out of something from back then. So it was all SAE. Same with some of the other parts... rather than change things over that were running just fine they kept em that way, and used metric for everything new.

I would have been happy if they just didn't use the E12s on the top of the bellhousing, or alternatively, if some bastard hadn't stolen what was apparently $800 worth of tools out of the back of my MJ a while ago. I still haven't figured out everything that got taken, one of the things I forgot to buy a new one of was my external torx set, so there are two bolts still holding my broken transmission in, instead of the new one being most of the way in already.

I hate thieves.
 
The same guy who decided E12's were a good idea must have been the same guy who decided a T60 was a good idea for the oil filter housing. You know, that same housing that's about 3 inches away from the unibody making it 99% impossible to remove.

I've become quite good at removing that housing now, as I go through o-rings 1-2 times a year...
 
I've found the more I have to take a bolt out the easier it is... mostly because it doesn't have time to seize in place. I took the bolts holding the catalytic converter flange together out with a single 1/2" box wrench and my fingers today, for instance, even though they were completely crusted with mud.

and yeah, whoever made those decisions should be forced to work on their creations after 20 years of rust and dirt have been added... and then taken out in a field and their fingers shot off one by one :mad:
 
UNCC_99XJ said:
The same guy who decided E12's were a good idea must have been the same guy who decided a T60 was a good idea for the oil filter housing. You know, that same housing that's about 3 inches away from the unibody making it 99% impossible to remove.

I've become quite good at removing that housing now, as I go through o-rings 1-2 times a year...
Click to expand...

The next time you have the housing off, weld a 1/2"-13 nut to the end of the bolt(weld it through the center like a plug weld) then all you have to do is put a wrench on it to get the bolt out.
 
xjtrailrider said:
The next time you have the housing off, weld a 1/2"-13 nut to the end of the bolt(weld it through the center like a plug weld) then all you have to do is put a wrench on it to get the bolt out.
Click to expand...

I'll have to do that next time. It's about due to start leaking again so maybe i'll be doing that soon.

I managed to find a Torx set from Pep Boys that was just a 6 point all the way around. Took that, cut it down to almost nothing, put the bit on the bolt with a wrench and a looooooong breaker bar and it came off. I'm amazed at how tight this stupid bolt gets over time too.

First time I did it I learned not to use Gearwrench wrenches between the bit and the breaker bar. You know those funny Z shaped wrenches people pay a lot of money for? I unintentionally made one in about 3 seconds flat that day....
 
Ordered plane tickets to Colorado today! :) May try and rig something up to mount my sway bar when i disconnect, the bungees aren't working for me anymore.
 
Working on half door project. Thanks to stump the welding is going better. The welds still look like shit but I'm blowing through the thin door skin less. ;) :thumbup:
 
Ghost said:
Working on half door project. Thanks to stump the welding is going better. The welds still look like shit but I'm blowing through the thin door skin less. ;) :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Tack tack tack tack ;) I had to weld to my buddies headers that way, they wet old and fatigued but it looked really nice when I was done
 
Cousin got hit in his work car by a old escort going 45..tagged the front end of his cavalier...sooo we decided that we'll do a little hillbilly engineering and bend it back with the fork truck :)

It's within 1/16" :)

318146_996823251363_31207891_40180577_1036794114_n.jpg
 
534630_771404078408_52707502_34885373_733579945_n.jpg


bringing some hood to quiet west knoxville neighborhood ;)


actually i found someone who wants to swap with me for stock z71 wheels so i went ahead and pulled the eagles and got them all polished up.... hour and a half with a powerball and some mothers polish and i got this
IMAG0528.jpg
 
xjtrailrider said:
The next time you have the housing off, weld a 1/2"-13 nut to the end of the bolt(weld it through the center like a plug weld) then all you have to do is put a wrench on it to get the bolt out.
Click to expand...
I just replace em. I shredded mine taking them out, so I simply went to tractor supply (5 minutes down the road! I love rural massachusetts) and bought 1 pound of grade 8 bolts for $5. Handful of 5/16 g8 washers, handful of 3/8 g8 split washers, handful of 3/8 g8 nuts for good measure, a half dozen or so 1.5" 3/8 g8 bolts, and half a dozen 2" 3/8 g8 bolts. A 2" 3/8 plus a 5/16 washer (fits the shank very snug instead of the usual loose fit, I prefer this for things that have to be real strong and clean fitting) and a 3/8 split lockwasher = works fine instead of the stock E12 1.75" 3/8 bolt. And I think I have more than enough to do another two XJs/MJs and a handful of other stuff leftover after that... all for 5 bucks.

Until now I reused the E12s, but after that fight with these due to my E12 socket being stolen with my toolbag a few weeks ago, I am all done with E12s. hex heads all the way.
 
548047_771661926678_52707502_34886912_204144969_n.jpg


no more hood, traded the eagles and the bajas for a set of stock whels with some better tread michelins on them.... planning on painting them black and keeping the gold chevy emblem in the center when i upgrade to 285's
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

SAMSET
What do you need to get done before WF23?
Replies
18
Views
2K
BRIANHO13
BRIANHO13
M
New and need help
2 3
Replies
41
Views
9K
Evan03
E
B
2001 XJ dies at highway speed
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
N8N_99xj
N
N
2000 XJ, high miles, lots of new parts, still have vibration
Replies
10
Views
1K
N8N_99xj
N
D
XJ axle swap/build
14 15 16
Replies
319
Views
34K
89Mock
89Mock
Back
Top