96 XJ shuts off while driving

Hope one of you can help me because I am banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what the problem is.
Jeep starts and runs fine, not check engine lights or warning signs. Periodically while driving it just dies. When I turn the key to restart the motor will not turn over. No clicks or noise or anything. Here is the strange part. After it dies if I put it in neutral and roll it forward or backward a couple of feet it starts right back up. I have never had a problem like this with a vehicle and don’t know what to check. Any help would be very appreciated

Random dying with no check engine light is usually the crank sensor, but not even cranking sounds like a different issue. I assume you're putting it back in park or neutral to try cranking, since it shouldn't crank with the shifter in other positions.

Yes, after I roll it a little wats it starts right up in neutral or park. I haven’t tried cranking it while in gear because like you said it shouldn’t start in gear. The check engine light did come on this evening for a few minutes but went back out.

I used to have a triumph that did that, but that is par for the course with those. A good place to start with yours is at the neutral safety switch on the side of the trans. Also take a good close look at your wiring harnesses. Mine was occasionally stalling in reverse and I found a harness had just slightly rubbed through between the back of the intake and the firewall.

The no crank is the kicker here. We can point you to all kinds of things that will cause a no start or random dying. But the stall AND no crank is a new one on me. No crank is almost always the nss, no start could be several things.

There was a TSB about this, it was the screw holding down the PDC (engine fuse block) main power red supply wire. May or may not be your issue, but when they issue a TSB it is usually a common problem.

It would probably be a good idea to recheck your battery connections. I'm really anal about this, I clean the battery posts with a 3M pad and brake cleaner, the same with the inside of the clamps. Reassemble then apply a light coating of grease, spray grease worls well for this use a rag to contain overspray.. The reason you clean thoroughly, then coat with grease is because grease doesn't conduct well if at all. Too simple a thing to cut corners or not to do the job correctly.

I had a battery that did this, it turned out to be an internal battery thing, not exactly sure what was going on but inside my battery there was a loose cell and/or contact point that would periodically kill the motor, the starter, gauges and lighting.

In a situation like this the ignition switch is worth a look, there is often some discoloration that may be an indictor it is overheating and on the verge of complete failure.

Just some ideas.

Check for any stored or pending Checking Engine Light trouble codes.

Start with the basics, they are free and easy.

Test the CrankShaft Position Sensor (CPS), consider cleaning and adjusting the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).


Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray/black and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.


Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)


Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap gently on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you may need a new starter.

Thanks for the ideas of things to check. I I’m working on it now and will let you guys know if I find anything. I appreciate all the ideas that you have given me at least gives me a place to start