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searching for TRE

Pass side YJ!They run an inverted-T set-up.
 
PM me your address, and I'll send you my bent one. Seriously.

TRE.jpg


The diameter of the very bottom of the taper where it is threaded and the castle nut goes is much larger than the stock D30 TRE hole. In order for you to make this work even with D44 knuckles, reaming is involved.

This is the reamer I used to ream the knuckles and TRE's:


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...4&group_ID=946&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
Hmmm did you run inverted T or inverted Y?
When using that reamer did you first drill it out then ream it out? Also in regards to reaming the hole out, aren't you worried about weakening the knuckle? Cause I'd rather bust a TRE then break the knuckle on the trail.

Capt. Nemo said:
PM me your address, and I'll send you my bent one. Seriously.

TRE.jpg


The diameter of the very bottom of the taper where it is threaded and the castle nut goes is much larger than the stock D30 TRE hole. In order for you to make this work even with D44 knuckles, reaming is involved.

This is the reamer I used to ream the knuckles and TRE's:


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...4&group_ID=946&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
Kejtar said:
Hmmm did you run inverted T or inverted Y?
When using that reamer did you first drill it out then ream it out? Also in regards to reaming the hole out, aren't you worried about weakening the knuckle? Cause I'd rather bust a TRE then break the knuckle on the trail.

I'm running an inverted "T" set-up I believe:

front.jpg


When I reamed the knuckles, I just reamed them without drilling first. I thought about the possibility of a larger hole weakening the knuckle, but I haven't had any issues with them up to this point. There isn't as much material as you would think that is being reamed out when going in from the top of the knuckle. If you picture an hourglass, that's essentially what the reamed hole ends up looking like (the taper doesn't continue completely through the knuckle). I reamed just enough for the TRE to pass through the hole and for the castle nut to go on enough for the cotter pin to work. I'm not sure how this would work on a D30 since the knuckle is smaller.

When using the ES2233L, the hole already drilled in the TRE is for a steering stabilizer (if I'm not mistaken). This hole is much, much smaller than the hole in the knuckle which is drilled for TRE's.
 
The hole in the TRE is for the drag link in an inverted T set up. Supposed you could run a stabilizer in the tre also if running a cross over steering setup.

When I went to the 44 high steer I had to ream the pitman arm for the 1 ton TRE's. Very easy, although I did spring for a decent ($$) reamer. I re-drilled to 5/8th and then reamed the pitman arm.

http://www.tqci.net/~scot/steeringa.jpg
 
Capt. Nemo said:
PM me your address, and I'll send you my bent one. Seriously.
I've got one that looks just like that.

It's been a pretty shitty system overall, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Should have spent the extra money on crossover. It's the first thing I plan on fixing next year.
 
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