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spark plug thread... haha

S

spencer411

NAXJA Forum User
Location
St. Louis
ok I did go ahead and search and did find some answers I needed, but still some that werent addressed so here we go.

ive decided to go with NGKs prolly not the platinums but maybe. a few extra dollars isnt an issue here, but the question is this, how do I know what gap to use in my 01?

and I read in a thread that someone was saying their 2000 has a distributorless system so am I to assume my 01 does as well? and I wont need wires?

thanks
 
Your 2001 does have a distributorless system. And no you dont need wires. What you have instead of wires and a distributor is a coil pack that stretches over all 6 of your plugs. Personally I think its a pain in the ass getting that thing off and on properly but I do think its better than having a distributor. As for using platinums...I ran them for a while and developed a knock in my system which im not sure if it was cause by the plats or not. I didnt see an increase in heat but I did go back to regular truck plugs on my last change.
 
I might be wrong but I believe .035 is correct. However usually when you buy sparkplugs they are already gapped correctly and shouldnt need to be gapped again. Whatever you do...don't go with splitfires. Buddy of mine used them unfortunately and ive heard some bad things around the campfire about them too.
 
spark plug gap should be on a sticker on the hood. Check the plugs, I just did mine, 5 were correct, one had been bent in a bit. Probably from the parts guy dropping it :)
 
Im loving that fact that I dont have to buy new wires but I do need a spark plug socket, some anti seize, di-electric grease and maybe a gap tester

this place is the best thanks alot
 
spencer411 said:
Im loving that fact that I dont have to buy new wires but I do need a spark plug socket, some anti seize, di-electric grease and maybe a gap tester

this place is the best thanks alot
Click to expand...

You'll need...

Spark plug socket (5/8")
6" extension and universal joint
socket wrench
copper-based anti-sieze (for the plug threads.)
dielectric grease (for the plug boots.)
Wrench or socket to fit "coil rail" bolts (I don't know what size, but I'd be surprised if they weren't 14m/m or thereabouts.

When you install the plugs with the anti-seize, bear in mind it's VERY easy to overtorque them! Turn the extension with your fingertips until it stops (that's "contact," then turn an additional 1/6 - 1/4 turn. That's IT.

With used plugs (like when you do cylinder balance checks) you turn only 1/6-turn or so - the additional for the new plugs is to "set" the gasket or sealing surface to the cylinder head.

5-90
 
The copper based is much better, lasts longer and handles heat much better than the aluminum based. It's also alot more expensive but worth it. I have 2 cans of the stuff but it's not permatex brand, it's the stuff one of my customers uses in his auto business and I can't lay my hands on one to look at the brand right now.
 
RichP said:
The copper based is much better, lasts longer and handles heat much better than the aluminum based. It's also alot more expensive but worth it. I have 2 cans of the stuff but it's not permatex brand, it's the stuff one of my customers uses in his auto business and I can't lay my hands on one to look at the brand right now.
Click to expand...

I'll put that on my shopping list. It's amazing the variety of helpful information available on this forum. Thank you.
 
Justa word of caution.
anti-sieze is very conductive, and can short out your plugs. Don't use much and don't get it on anything accept the threads.
 
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