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Cam+ lifter change now rocker arms wont bolt down

F

FlexJ17

NAXJA Forum User
Location
rancho cucamonga CA
I bought a reman longblock 4.0l in oct 2020, and just last month the cam+ lifters went bad due to not being broken in correctly so i bought a brand new stock replacement cam+lifter set from melling kit # mc1377 for my 2001 xj. Now that i have the head back on, all the pushrods even at their lowest point is too high to mount rocker arms. There is a 1/"4 gap between rocker arms and where they mount to block and thats for ALL cylinders.

1. Do i need different length pushrods?, if so why? This is a stock replacement cam and lifter set. I dont see why there would be a difference
 
Did you check the new lifters against the old ones before installing?
 
RCP Phx said:
Did you check the new lifters against the old ones before installing?
Click to expand...

I did not, i was thinking of buying another one instead of taking off the head to compare the lifters. They are correct part number(melling part #jb2011)

New melling mc1377 camshaft
Intake lift:0.408
Exhaust lift:0.414

And the stock oem camshaft specs for my year is the same
 
Those are the correct part numbers so unless you got shipped something else???
Also are you sure you got the pushrods fully seated in the lifters?
 
RCP Phx said:
Those are the correct part numbers so unless you got shipped something else???
Also are you sure you got the pushrods fully seated in the lifters?
Click to expand...

Yea i felt them sit in place also i can see them fully seated inside the lifter. Im not sure what to do now, nobody knows the issue. Should i just find shorter pushrods?
 
You probably should check everything but otherwise you will need to get some shorter pushrods(make sure you allow for proper pre-load). Possible reasons are a heavy block deck cut and the same for the heads.
 
Do not assume the re-man engine came with the correct parts per the book.

I don't know how the market stands today, but a few years back it was challenging to get decent lifters. The re-man may have used a different lifter and different pushrods to compensate.

I would start by looking for a "correct" (by the book) pushrod and see if it is not shorter than the ones that are evidently too long. If yes, then you may have an easy solution. If not, then you need to figure out what length you actually need and figure out how to source them.
 
Anak said:
Do not assume the re-man engine came with the correct parts per the book.

I don't know how the market stands today, but a few years back it was challenging to get decent lifters. The re-man may have used a different lifter and different pushrods to compensate.

I would start by looking for a "correct" (by the book) pushrod and see if it is not shorter than the ones that are evidently too long. If yes, then you may have an easy solution. If not, then you need to figure out what length you actually need and figure out how to source them.
Click to expand...
I was thinking exactly what you are saying right now. So i have a pushrod with me now that came with the engine and i looked up the specs for a melling pushrod (same brand of my new cam and lifters) im gonna measure and see the difference
 
RCP Phx said:
You probably should check everything but otherwise you will need to get some shorter pushrods(make sure you allow for proper pre-load). Possible reasons are a heavy block deck cut and the same for the heads.
Click to expand...
Thats what i thought but my understanding is those pushrods were fine before i change cam and lifters and if the cam and lifters are oem then there is something else wrong and it isnt the pushrod length but like the guy said after you., the correct stuff might have not been used. When the engine was built. So i thought. If i were to just get shorter pushrods then that would be like puttinf a bandaid on the problem?
 
Not at all, other things that effect pushrod length is valve stem height after a head rebuild. I had to buy new pushrods when I built my stroker.
 
Btw, I forgot to mention I started with shims on mine. If you need some I have a lot of them.
 
That's weird overall, the factory set-up does not use shims so the builder was already aware of something. From your description you still need even shorter push rods or more shims!
 
They sell adjustable pushrods to get the correct measurement. Be aware of the lifter pre-load requirement and also the correct rocker arm geometry and contact patch with the valve stem.
 
Any updates on this?
 
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