New to the XJ looking for general/upgrade advice.

Hey guys! I hope your having a good day and thanks for stopping by.

Recently I picked up a 2001 XJ with 4x4 and the 4.0 and am looking for advice on what to replace or upgrade to make this thing a great Daily driven vehicle and light duty vehicle.

As I've been searching through I've found a few things to replace for piece of mind such as the 0331 tupy head (which is on its way as in pretty sure I have a headgasket leak)

Currently planning on replacing all 4 corner brakes and lines and a majority of the suspension components as they are all old and very rusted. Is a rear disc conversion worth it or should I just get a kit with drum rears?

I also have some 16" rims comming with 4.5 inch backspacing and 235/70/16 tires for 29 inches.

The biggest problem I have is not knowing what brands are reputable and which upgrades are preferable for a DD rather than just replacing with stock. I would rather spend a little more for the upgraded better performing part that just getting the stock piece with being a street driven DD and light off-road use

Another issue I am having is electrical where the power locks don't work and the passenger window doesn't work. The previous owner seems to think the wire harnesses at the door hinge are the issue.

Currently for suspension I am looking at a rough country 3" lift with the spring replacement and adding the double shock steering stabilizer In there. Is this a good place to start? It also seems that in most cases simply buying the control arms is a better option that trying to press out old bushings for roughly the same price so if there are any upgrade options along the way opinions would be appreciated.

The best place to start is right here doing research such as stay away from RC!

I dont know what parts are actually upgrades.

I'd toss a set of lockers in it.
Replace consumables as needed. I dont think disc conversations really all that. I did and it does work better definitely not a huge upgrade

Recovery safety gear, lockers, good rubber, front winch bumper, gears when you think your going 33"
The other guys can tell you what lift. I think they're all junk.

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Yep fix the head sooner rather than later. As for brands. No junk country or cRustys. Ironrock offroad is a good balance of price and quality. Old man emu is great for DD and a lift. Really will just depend on what you want it to do. If you just want a little lift look at doing stock upcountry coils and shackle boxes with a few other easy changes. A fairly stock XJ with a traction device will do a lot. Rear disc is really more for ease of changing pads. Just depends if your budget is open enough for it. Better ways to spend that cash. Dual stabilisers are a waste, simple upgraded one is fine. What's your budget?

Double shock steering satbilizer?

Or do you mean double shear track bar?

The double shear track bar is a good idea. Double shock steering stabilizer not so much.

Before you go too far with upgrades, take care of the basics first. Motor mounts and exhaust are items which are often neglected and will create avoidable problems over time. Consider a thorough cooling system flush, and a brake system flush as well. (Put me also in the camp that says rear discs are over-rated.) If you really want to improve your brakes look into a WJ brake swap, or even Black Magic pads. Either of those options will net you more of a difference than rear discs.

In the upgrades category, look into reinforcing the area around the steering gear box. There are several ways to go about it. Pick one that suits your budget and priorities and get that area taken care of.

Good to know about junk country and K-rusties.

The lift idea is more of a byproduct of wanting to replace all 4 socks and springs and seemed convenient, however is not really a goal. If I have to stick with 29 or 30 inch tires I'm good with that considering that taller tires means more flex and roll from the tire.

I already plan on replacing the majority of the brake system including lines but good to know the rear discs are over rated for the most part. It's not to hard to find a full set of stock pieces for a good price.

The goal is making this thing a solid daily driver that will see mostly street use. The most I may have to do is hope a curb or venture into a field but I by no means do any rock crawling or mudding.

So current plan is:

4 corner brakes
Motor mounts
Exhaust.
Double shear track bar and upgraded single shock stabilizer.


My budget is fairly open but the goal is a solid DD as I'm driving a out 45 mins one way on back roads with deep sit he's, deer, and no guard rails. Probably looking at aroud 2000 or less for suspension components.

Was looking at picking up a full bushing replacement kit but it seems like buying stock control arms and such is an easier option and will net new metal vs the mostly rusted metal it has now.

I also add another issue I am running into.

Around 50 to 60 mph I'm getting a pretty good shake in the vehicle, at 70 is lessens same as being under those speeds.
Not sure what might cause this specifically. Obviously the suspension is old. But I'm not super familiar with Jeep/truck suspensions as I've been largely a car guy until now.

There is the mid chassis brace thing? Seems to have se bushing inside it that are junk, what is this and what part does it play?

Viridionplague said:

I also add another issue I am running into.

Around 50 to 60 mph I'm getting a pretty good shake in the vehicle, at 70 is lessens same as being under those speeds.
Not sure what might cause this specifically. Obviously the suspension is old. But I'm not super familiar with Jeep/truck suspensions as I've been largely a car guy until now.

There is the mid chassis brace thing? Seems to have se bushing inside it that are junk, what is this and what part does it play?

Click to expand...

Search "death wobble" it's common but has a lot of causes!

I'll be the one who says Rough Country can be ok. I think its somewhat hit or miss on quality from Rough Country. My 2000 XJ came with a 2017-ish 4.5" long arm lift, and except for the rear leaves which were sagging badly by the time I bought the vehicle (partially due to the fact that the PO removed two of the five leaves), its pretty decent quality. I think it will be fine for mild to moderate offroad usage. No doubt the boutique vendors are going to make better stuff. I have some Ironman 4x4 Fab, IRO, Stinky Fab, and Boostwerks Engineering bits on my XJ now. I do have a Rusty's part too...

Anyhow, you need to decide your goal for the vehicle, and then use that as your guide for mods. Not everyone needs lockers and a high end lift kit. But get the vehicle in good running shape before throwing money at a lift kit and diffs, or you'll likely get stranded just driving around. I've put new plugs, coil pack, O2 sensors, crank position sensor, and starter in mine. All grounds cleaned. Radiator flushed, new fan clutch, new thermostat, new higher flow electric fan. Added a manual override for the electric fan. All fluids changed. Valve cover gasket, pan gasket, and rear main seal have been replaced. I didn't need to touch the brakes on mine.

The vehicle shake has probably worn front suspension components. When the front suspension components on this style of suspension becomes worn or goes into disrepair, vehicle shake at speed is a common behavior. There are a number of things that may need to be replaced, adjusted, or repaired. Search on "death wobble". Some good info on this along with some applicable parts are on Kevin's Offroad website.

The mid-chassis brace you mention is likely the tranny cross member. Sounds like the tranny mount may be broken. If that's the case, you may want to have a look at the engine mounts too.

Start spraying Liquid Wrench now on all the suspension bolts that will eventually need to come off for repair/replacement.

No offroad use no lift.

For a dailyvdriver youl likely not be happy lifting it.


Theres some badass headlights on the market

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This is from another thread a few below. Credit to needabow

Here's what I'd do if I was getting another XJ to be daily driven(and actually my plan for my kid sister in a couple years).

-new upcountry leaf springs
-shackle relocation boxes
-any decent boomerang shackle
-New upcountry coils up front with small puck spacer to level suspension
-IRO double shear track bar
-5100 bilstien shocks
-Replace control arms with new OEM arms, it's almost cheaper than just replacing bushings.

This should net around 2-3" of lift and ride great. Driveline should be happy at that lift, especially for a daily driven rig.

If you are willing find some 98-99 upcountry axles. You'll get a HP30 front and it should have a factory lsd that on 30s will be a solid DD rig that can do some mild Wheeling.

Another thing to pay attention to, particularly if you are getting vibrations, are the driveshafts and front axle shafts--particularly the U-joints. The centering ball on the front driveshaft should also be examined--if that one goes out on you it may well take the transfer case with it.

The best way to check the U-joints is to remove the shafts and feel the joints as you cycle them in your hands, but even trying to flex them back and forth under the vehicle (you will need things level, no load on the joints) can give you some feedback on their condition.

If by "mid-chassis brace" you are talking about frame plating, no, that should not be what you are looking for in order to solve your vibration issue. Frame plating is about adding durability for off-road use and keeping these rigs alive beyond what was expected of them. However, the cross-member and trans mount are definitely worth checking on. You won't be able to asses the condition of the trans mount just by looking at it from underneath (unless of course it has been wasted for years and chunks have fallen out). A gentle lift from a jack, like a scissors jack, on the trans will be better for figuring out if the mount is still intact. Likewise for the motor mounts, especially the driver's side.

One other thing to look for on the vibrations front is the harmonic balancer. These vehicles are of an age such that the rubber ring between the two halves of the balancer tends to be cracking and letting go. It is unlikely that is the source of your issue, but it is an easy item to take a look at. If the rubber is all there but has a few cracks in it you probably don't need to do anything about it, but if bits of rubber are missing then you need to start thinking about replacing it.

Some really good advice on here. Rear discs is not important with stock size tires, black magic brake pads are the best/easiest way to increase braking power. If you really want it to be a daily driver do all the maintenance and replace the bushings and or control arms as stated. lifting the Jeep will not help at all for daily driving and will almost certainly make it worse for highway miles. A lunchbox locker in the front will make a world of difference for traction.
Finding and curing death wobble is typically a step by step process and since it can come from many areas it is best to tackle it one step at a time. Replace the bushings, drive it. Replace the transmission mount, drive it. Replace the tie rod ends drive it and so on. All it these steps are basic maintenance anyway so it shouldn’t feel as bad doing it.

I think it is a reasonable attitude to buy the best quality parts that YOU can afford, that meets YOUR needs, and that YOU are happy making that purchase decision. If not, you need to fix whatever prevents you satisfying these three qualifiers.

I have two XJs that I will never sell. My 2001 has a Clayton coil conversion, Warn hubs, built axles... and then there's my 1993 that still has a few components from the Rusty's kit that I installed more than 20 years ago. It is on smallish (by today's standard) 33" tires with 4.56 gears, TrueTracs and the D35 rear axle it rolled out of the factory with the original shafts!

The Rusty's kit was all I could afford when I built it. Rubicon Express was the high end kit back then and it was way out of my price range. The Rusty's components that I am still using are front tow hook brackets, LCAs and a cross-member and skid plate.

My 1993 has given me so much joy over the years, that it has in some way become part of me. I would seriously mourn losing it. When I turn up at events in it, it is often the oldest, most beat up Jeep there. The newer Wrangler guys with many thousands invested in their rigs often get out-wheeled or recovered by that old blue XJ.

I enjoyed learning to drive it off road without breaking it as I couldn't afford repairs when I built it. It has evolved over time, but I am immensely grateful to Rusty for producing parts that met all my needs at the time of purchase.

I don't care if anyone frowns over my use of 'kRusty's' parts. They have served me well. At some point in the near future my '93 will get a Clayton front kit as that's my preference now. Find what you like and enjoy it.

smokeyyank said:

This is from another thread a few below. Credit to needabow

Here's what I'd do if I was getting another XJ to be daily driven(and actually my plan for my kid sister in a couple years).

-new upcountry leaf springs
-shackle relocation boxes
-any decent boomerang shackle
-New upcountry coils up front with small puck spacer to level suspension
-IRO double shear track bar
-5100 bilstien shocks
-Replace control arms with new OEM arms, it's almost cheaper than just replacing bushings.

This should net around 2-3" of lift and ride great. Driveline should be happy at that lift, especially for a daily driven rig.

If you are willing find some 98-99 upcountry axles. You'll get a HP30 front and it should have a factory lsd that on 30s will be a solid DD rig that can do some mild Wheeling.

Click to expand...

This is one of the first posts I found which is why I was considering the 3" lift overall.

It sounds like the only thing that would be a good upgrade is the double sheer track bar.

I'll probably go with stock replacement calipers, rotors, hard brake lines, drums and pads. For the brakes

KOR steering brace and stabilizer, a double sheer track bar. Stock upper and lower control arms.

Not really sure who to choose for the leaf springs and theshocks/struts as I haven't been able to find stock hieght blistien 5100 shocks. But maybe just some stock kyb shocks form the local box stores as I've had good experiences with kyb parts.

Throw in the trans mount/brace as that midcar pieces clearly has chunks missing.

Will also be adding any other suspension and steering arms/bars/ or links as most of that stuff is pretty rusted out along with motor mounts.

I've also read that a rear shackle is a good idea as it prevents the rear axle from hitting the frame but the aftermarket ones all seem to come with some kind of lift.

Overall though it sounds like mostly stock replacement parts rather than anything upgraded for my purposes unless anyone has any other suggestions for any steering or suspension parts. Such as an over the knuckle steering kit from KOR or upgraded drag bars

Thanks again for all the contributions it really helps narrow things down while both trying to learn about these vehicles and parts along with trying to select what to get with longevity and reliability in mind.

Other suggestion for steering is a ZJ or solid tierod. Don't go OTK or mess with mess that. No need to. Other suggestion would be getting sway bar disconnects up front and removing the rear sway bar entirely. Just helps with off road ability but maintains on road. Also look at swapping out the upper control arm bushings.

As for parts, Rockauto will be the best bet for anything "stock" related. For the brake lines you might as well find some stainless braided that are suitable for a small lift. They are all pretty much the same so what ever works price wise. Another upgrade is swapping in WJ lower control arms. They take some small modifications but are fully boxed and also have a notch to help with some rub issues.

I agree dont take steering over the knuckle right now.

Why on earth would you put stock control arms on.
Lots of poly bushings come with cheap are that are better than stock arms. They don't need to be adjustable. The lower arm has a castor adjuster you add shims to increase caster and remove shims to decrease. Theres actually a fair amount of adjustment if needed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153973074080



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Viridionplague said:

Hey guys! I hope your having a good day and thanks for stopping by.

Recently I picked up a 2001 XJ with 4x4 and the 4.0 and am looking for advice on what to replace or upgrade to make this thing a great Daily driven vehicle and light duty vehicle.
<snip>

Click to expand...

You have been given good advice to fix the stock engine & mounts and suspension, to address the head and vibration concerns. With upgrades the vendors change, but the basics of what to change, and why, seldom change.

Buy a service manual and get to know your XJ as you repair the current problems, before diving into upgrades. When you have the desire to learn more, review this archive series of XJHelp to help you compare your goals with what the kits and modifications offer. A mild 2.5"-3" lift with 30" tires makes a great 95% street driver, and with the proper brake lines, shocks, bump stops and a rear traction differential, it will go further than you will probably want to risk getting stuck.

XJhelp1

XJhelp2

XJhelp3

XJhelp4

Ed's nailed it - factory service manual, get the maintenance caught up, and go from there.

I ran a 2 inch Emu kit on 30x9.50 tires, was great on-road - looked more "proportional" than stock, and all I had to do was change the speedo gear to get the speedo accurate.

From your budget etc. and mainly road use, a 1.5 to 3 inch lift on 31's. I do have a 2" lift and a 4.5" lift. Sort of a mixtures of parts. Look at KYB Monomax for shocks. I would replace the harmonic balancer, $50. I'd check the rear steel brake line. There are SS kits on Ebay. I have had issues with the front hard lines though.
As far as RC, I think for a few $$ more, I think you can do better. With Rusty's, factor in shipping cost. Then you might be up to Rubicon Express or even Old Man Emu.
I do run WJ Big Brakes and OTK steering and trackbar. Yes, nice, but $$$ and not really needed at your intent purpose.
Look at Ironrock (IRO) for their Boomerang shackle. Stock and 1" lift. Also, might look at K-Suspension's Viper Coil.

Edit: I am referring to the hard brakeline from the Master cylinder or proportioning block to the rear. Of the three XJs I have/had, it was rusted and possibly ready to burst. Not fun when brakes don't work, while driving.

Also, I'd replace the aluminum steering gear box spacer with a steel one. IRO has a good one. I think the Ironman 4X4 is a bit better. Others out there.