• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

DirtBound Mojave Tire Carrier install

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I bought a custom DirtBound Offroad Mojave Tire Carrier in April, received it in July, and finished the install this weekend. I wanted to write up the process and thought I should put it here for people who are thinking about getting one. Installation was fairly difficult but overall its a nice kit, and I have no real complaints with it.

The main reason I chose this bumper is because I want to have a ladder / bicycle rack on the bumper, next to the tire carrier. I prefer having the tire on the driver side (like stock) so that it doesn't block my view of the passenger lane, but most of the rear bumpers either have their tire carrier in the middle or are offset on the passenger side. The Mojave can be ordered with the tire on the drivers side already, and Max was willing to add a second arm, so pretty much golden setup. Plus I like the look of the bumper, so it was nice to be able to get it.

First step was to remove the gas skid, hitch, and stock bumper

Stock_Bumper_Removed.sized.jpg


Next was to open up the rear frame to accept the square tube tie-in brackets

Enlarged_Tie_In_Holes.sized.jpg


The tie-in brackets have nuts welded in so they can act like nutstrips, however the positioning was a little off from stock and I had to enlarge the holes with a step bit. The brackets also did not have the far forward weld-nut that is needed for the gas skid, so I ordered a couple of TJ belly-skid nutserts from Black Magic Brakes and drilled new holes for them. You can see the nutsert bolt at the front of this pic, as well as the missing bolt in the center.

Gask_Skid_Nutsert.sized.jpg


The gas skid was reinstalled and I started fitting the main bumper. In my case the bumper was just barely touching the body on the passenger side, enough to prevent the holes in the bumper from lining up with the tie-in brackets. I cut off 1/2" on each of the sides, since that was the size of the bolt holes. This left a little gap on the sides, which is covered up by the quarterpanel guards.

Test_Fitting.sized.jpg


Another issue I ran into here was the hatch rubbing on the bumper when it was closed. In order to get around that problem, I pushed the bumper down as far as it would go, and then added 2 more shims to each of the hatch hinges. Now it doesn't rub, although the hatch sits a little high on the sides of the body.

Test_Fitting_Rub_Marks.sized.jpg


Bumper and swing arms installed

Swing_Arms_Installed.jpg


The kit included a license plate bracket that mounts to the tire ...

License_Plate_Bracket.sized.jpg


... but did not include the lights. For those I bought a license plate light at Autozone, and a pair of 3/4" red LEDs from Amazon, and ran the wiring under the tail-light and up the arm.

License_Plate_Wiring.sized.jpg


License_Plate_Lighting.sized.jpg


Lastly, I cut the quarterpanel armor to fit my Napier v2 flares, and bolted them to the body while the interior panels were out for the wiring. You can also see the pull-straps I installed for the bear claws

Quarter_Panel_Guards_Installed.sized.jpg


Then I made my final adjustments to the position and angle of the bumper to match the lines on the quarterpanel armor

Position_Adjustment.sized.jpg


(before last alignment)

Completed_Install_1.jpg


Completed_Install_2.jpg


A lot of work, but overall very happy with it. The lines are great, and it gives a ton of clearance in the back. It also let me move my spare out of the cargo area, so I can start camping in the jeep. And it will let me build a ladder on the other arm, which I can use for carrying more gear or for getting on the roof.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the write up!

I will admit the tire carriers take us a while to make, hopefully we can improve the build process to make them go smoother in the future.

Thats strange it hits the hatch, never seen that happen before. I wonder if the fiberglass hatch sits lower than the steel body hatches?
We did make some slight adjustments to the unibody bracket earlier this year to address the issue, though I am going to say you got yours before we put them into production.

The armor came out great with the napier flares considering they are mounted backwards... :party:

Feedback like this is great to see, it helps us improve our products.
 
yeah but all the pictures I found online showed them with the notch in the upper rear corner, and it wasn't until after I spent all day cutting and fitting that I noticed the angles are backwards

You need some documentation


Ahh yea I do see what you mean, on the cut and fold it is that way :doh: I can see how that could have been confusing.

These normally don't go over the bumper, but I really like how it looks. Might have to make a version that is designed to go that way.
armor4_2.jpg
 
Make a set with the forward angled extension mirrored to the rear (same amount of overlap past the screw holes) and I will see how they set up. I will still need to trim the forward part a hair to clear the Napier flares but not much
 
Make a set with the forward angled extension mirrored to the rear (same amount of overlap past the screw holes) and I will see how they set up. I will still need to trim the forward part a hair to clear the Napier flares but not much

Its on my long list of "to do" i'll send a set out when I get to them.
 
The other suggestion apart from documentation would be to make vertical and horizontal mounting slots in the brackets and bumper respectively, so that they can be aligned on 2D plane. Right now the bumper only has a hole and the bracket is slotted vertically (or vice versa), and since it was rubbing against the quarterpanel I had to trim the edge of the bumper to make it fit. Would be nice if I could adjust depth as well as height
 
Completed_Install_2.jpg


A lot of work, but overall very happy with it. The lines are great, and it gives a ton of clearance in the back. It also let me move my spare out of the cargo area, so I can start camping in the jeep. And it will let me build a ladder on the other arm, which I can use for carrying more gear or for getting on the roof.

Really nice build thread! Makes our Fender Flares look good.
 
Next was to open up the rear frame to accept the square tube tie-in brackets

Enlarged_Tie_In_Holes.sized.jpg

Do you have any tips for cutting into the rear frame? I'm going to be doing just that today to install some Nate's bumper tie-in brackets to beef up a bumper built by the previous owner of my rig and installed using only the factory bumper mount holes. (I e-mailed Dirtbound Offroad to see if they were interested in selling a set of their tie-ins, which are not shown on their website as available for purchase without a bumper, but I got no response.) A 4" angle grinder seems like it would be a bit cumbersome for the job, especially for making the shorter horizontal cuts. I'm thinking that a sawzall might work better. Or maybe even a dremmel. What did you use?
 
Do you have any tips for cutting into the rear frame? I'm going to be doing just that today to install some Nate's bumper tie-in brackets to beef up a bumper built by the previous owner of my rig and installed using only the factory bumper mount holes. (I e-mailed Dirtbound Offroad to see if they were interested in selling a set of their tie-ins, which are not shown on their website as available for purchase without a bumper, but I got no response.) A 4" angle grinder seems like it would be a bit cumbersome for the job, especially for making the shorter horizontal cuts. I'm thinking that a sawzall might work better. Or maybe even a dremmel. What did you use?



I just did this. Actually for nate's brackets as well. An angle grinder with a 4.5" wheel will get the majority of it. Then use a flap disk to get it smooth. On Nate's brackets you'll find that you have to open the hole up slightly wider than the actual tie in tube because the welds on the bracket act as gussets and interfere with the brackets sliding all the way into the frame. Grind a little more space in the body and you will clear this and the brackets will sit flush.

I digress :) nice write up on the tire carrier. Looks like a solid product.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I just did this. Actually for nate's brackets as well. An angle grinder with a 4.5" wheel will get the majority of it. You have to remove the plastic trim holding the door seal down. Then use a flap disk to get it smooth. On Nate's brackets you'll find that you have to open the hole up slightly wider than the actual tie in tube because the welds on the bracket act as gussets and interfere with the brackets sliding all the way into the frame. Grind a little more space in the body and you will clear this and the brackets will sit flush.

I digress :) nice write up on the tire carrier. Looks like a solid product.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top