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Remove fuel tank to R/R fuel pump

m42duster

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ohio
Didn't find much info searching...But, is there a date range where you have to remove the tank versus jacking rear up to reach in and replace fuel pump. Looking at both 98 and 00 XJ's that have pressure problems.
 
97 and later are the plastic tank with the pump on the top... 96 and earlier are steel with the pump on the side.
 
/hijack/

I don't know why I can't find much info about this. My plastic tank has a leak, so I am trying to remove it and patch it. Nobody seems to have replacements, and polyethelyne has to be heated to patch properly. I'm not going to do that without thoroughly emptying the tank. Plus, I need to fix that check valve issue.

My question is, how do you detach all the stuff on the top of the tank? I can't seem to get it to drop down far enough to reach anything. Is there access from inside the cargo area like on my SJ Wagoneer? Any tricks or tips would help greatly.

Thanks,
Wayne
 
lol, do like I used to on F bodies (camaros and firebirds) no factory access from the top but I made access and then made a patch panel, silicon the edges and screw it back down with short sheet metal screws. Much easier since on an F body you have to drop the rearend and exhaust to get the tank out. I change a fuel pump in those in about an hour including cutting.
 
Drop the tank and while you have it out clean up all the vents and hoses. Replace the hanger bolts for good measure. Seems like there should be an easier and more permanent fix than trying to heat the tank (especially with open flame or sparks). Fiberglass? Kevlar?? Duct Tape???

:dunno:

I do know that you're not going to want to drop it with any significant fuel in it. 1 gal = 8 lbs. 10 gals = 80 lbs. (yes, I graduated 6th grade). Run it out or siphon it out.
 
X2, though if you have a leak that problem is solved for you.

I like to disconnect the pressure line, drop it in a jerry can, and jump the fuel pump relay com/no terminals to drain the tank. Sit back and grab your beer, no smoking though.

I patched one with a stainless steel bolt, some pieces of 1/8 thick nitrile rubber sheet (nitrile is not damaged by gasoline) and some fuel proof rtv or epoxy (think I used epoxy) but never ended up using it.

Lowering the tank isn't bad even half full, I've done it before. Lifting it into place sucks but fortunately is not too bad with a hydro jack. Don't bother fully unscrewing the tank strap bolts, just bring them down an inch or two and use the jack to hold the tank up while you pull the heads out of the keyhole slots. I actually like to use my knees to push the tank up while removing the straps if it is less than half full. Also works when reinstalling, just get the straps put into the rear crossmember behind the bumper FIRST.
 
I'm going to be using an epoxy to fix the leak, but for this particular kind of plastic (HDPE, LDPE, EVOH according to the stamps on the tank) the epoxy requires heating the plastic in order to get a strong liquid-tight bond. I tried it once without heating, figuring they didn't know what they were talking about, and it still leaks.

So, to finish removing the tank, I just need to squeeze in between the tank and the Jeep somehow to try to get all the hoses off? Cutting the floor inside is a bit of a hassle because of the mounted stuff in there which would have to come out. I'm not sure which would be less work. . .

I may not have to do that at all if I can get all the fuel out and twist the tank enough to gain full access to the leaky spot, so I'll try the fuel pump jump.

Thanks for the replies.
 
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