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aw4 sometimes loosing overdrive

02silverbullet

NAXJA Forum User
Location
san diego
i have issues with the trans sometimes not going into overdrive or it will have no issues but then it will kick out of o/d and wont go back in till i stop whut it off put it in park and then go again. but most of the time it will kick back out of od shortly there after.

i got a check light a while back for p700 (i know is a trans code) and p705 (shows no listing) i cleared the light and it was working fine. few days later light comes on but no issues i had been busy at work and did not get to scan it for a few days. and i was also getting ready for my pismo trip. finially got to scan it thursday it showes a code 89. not a p code just an 89 wich also offers no description in my scanner. and it wont clear. but it drives fine and i figure ill figure it out when i get back from my trip. skip to thursday night drive from san diego to bakersfield to pick up a friend before my pismo trip and on the way out of bakes (very hot btw) i lost overdrive. but it came back throught the weekend (check light was intermitant also) but lost o/d again for the drive back (check light on also) to bakes and the drive home. (btw driving nearly 8 hours with out o/d if a pain.)

what do i look for. i hear people talking about a nss on here and i assume it is the speed sensor of some sort but where do i find it? and could that be my issue? what else to check. when it is working properly it shifts smooth no noise. fluid level is just to the line while at operating temp running in neutral.
 
ii got a check light a while back for p700 (i know is a trans code) and p705 .... what do i look for. i hear people talking about a nss on here and i assume it is the speed sensor of some sort but where do i find it?

Google the trouble codes.

Use the NAXJA search function to find the write-up the shows how to clean the NSS.

Start here - http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80053
 
thanks for the help bud....

if you took a moment to read my post i already know p700 is the trans fualt code.

the p705 comes up in posts i have read but none that seem to be conclusive

lastly take a moment and type nss into the search function, you will get no results as i did, the term is too short for the search function to return results.

now if you knew anything about what i was asking you may have answered... why would you waste the time to link the search thread and tell me to search?

now gtfo out of the thread unless you have helpfull info. if you like to make a-hole posts like that go over to pirate as that is the norm there.
 
ok so i found another thread about the nss (nuetral saftey switch) know i know its a common problem. ill buy one tomorrow.

to the dude that responded if all you would have done is told me nss was a nuetral saftey switch and issues were a common problem it would have made my day.
 
Try cleaning it before you go buy a new one.
 
I don't think the NSS has anything to do with loosing OD.
Have you tried changing the fluid a couple of times?
What year is it?

Are you sure it is OD and not the torque converter lock, unlock you are feeling? I had to wire up a dash light on mine to be sure!

The TC can be triggered to unlock by a faulty brake or brake-cruise switch.
 
thanks for the help bud....
....now gtfo out of the thread

If you use Google and type in the any Jeep trouble code, you will find a number of threads with useful information from several of the Jeep forums.

Your problem is nothing new and wet behind the ears newbies routinely post the same question and get the same answer. All previous threads are still here on NAXJA and are available for you to search so you don't need to post a new thread or to be a rude a$$hat.
 
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I don't think the NSS has anything to do with loosing OD.
Have you tried changing the fluid a couple of times?
What year is it?

Are you sure it is OD and not the torque converter lock, unlock you are feeling? I had to wire up a dash light on mine to be sure!

The TC can be triggered to unlock by a faulty brake or brake-cruise switch.

yeah i am sure it is the o/d tc lockup only drops a hundred or so rpm, while od. is like 5-800 iirc. im still getting tc lockup in 3rd gear when od is not working.

as far as cleaning the nss, its not worth my time i read through a few threads where people broke theirs pulling it or still had issues after doing it and was not corrected till they purchased a new one. i ordered one today it should be in my hands in a few hours it was not that expensive i think but i wasnt really listening to the guy. ill post what i paid for it shortly. ordered it from a local jeep dealer here in san diego thanks for the help guys.



tim, i was only an ass hat as i felt you were. no hard feelings bud. your post did actually help me locate more info as i did not know the astresk symbol helped with the search terms. so actually thanks anyway
 
a model year would be helpful. i had a very similar problem with od. i found a few suspect factory grounds that were less than stellar. after i cleaned the grounds, no codes, and got od back. thats where i would start.
 
Two solonoids control what gear you are in.
#1 on is first gear
#1 and #2 on is second gear
#2 on is third gear
Both off is fourth gear.
Either your computer or the wiring is sending 12V to the second solenoid.
I don't know the reason for that but that's what is happening
 
sorry guys its a 98 sport 4.0 4x4

driver ws busy and i wint see my nss till tomorrow.

kingmeril, you are thinking solonoid why? another common problem? because it happens more when its hot?

it drove fine to work this morning but left work and about a minute after hitting the freeway it kicked out of o/d, and stayed out all the way home (20 miles or so) smoothe with no fuss just like i moved the gear selector or pushed the gass enough to have it kick down. it seems to be getting more frequent and do it when its colder, this evening it was barely about the 150 ish area before it kicked out
 
Two solonoids control what gear you are in.
#1 on is first gear
#1 and #2 on is second gear
#2 on is third gear
Both off is fourth gear.
Either your computer or the wiring is sending 12V to the second solenoid.
I don't know the reason for that but that's what is happening

That is correct, or the OD brake in the transmission is slipping. If so, a few tranny fluid changes might help, if it is a fluid problem.

Could it be a linkage problem, adjustment. Could it think it is in 3 linkage wise, and be bouncing between the two, D-3-D-3?

I am having a hard time seeing the NSS having anything to do with it. I am I missing something on NSS wiring, or linkage.
 
a model year would be helpful. i had a very similar problem with od. i found a few suspect factory grounds that were less than stellar. after i cleaned the grounds, no codes, and got od back. thats where i would start.


That makes me wonder if OD needs a ground wire to kill the 2nd solenoid, or a TCU voltage needs to be grounded to open the solenoid.
 
No, I am saying the solenoids are fine, cause they are obviously working.
Something is either telling your computer to turn on solenoid #2 or your computer is being dumb.
More than likely it is something telling your computer like the speed sensor or i guess NSS, but I don't see how the NSS would have something to do with third gear. Could be something else. I'm sorry I couldn't tell you what it is, but at least you know what it is not!
 
I had the P700 code in my jeep a couple of months ago, along with another but I don't remember what it was. the description was a shift indicator (transmission) fault and low voltage (transmission) fault. I had all of the same problems that you seem to have, not shifting into OD. I went to clean the NSS and it broke apart into 3 pieces, got a new one and was up and running normal again...
 
The P0705 code means the trans computer thinks the NSS is bad. Later models have codes to tell you if a particular solenoid it bad, but you didn't mention any of those codes. I've seen a few posts that a bad NSS on the later models can cause the t/c to not lockup.

It's easy enough to clean and you have to pull it either way. Why not try to save yourself $150 bucks? http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bin/partsSQL/search.cgi?query=neutral&catid=95. You can check it with an ohmeter without removing it too.
 
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