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Axle truss issue with UCA touching it

CDUNN2448

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Northern Indiana
Hi guys, so I just recently got a axle truss (artec industries) installed on my front Dana 30 axle and I also got Johnny Joints for it. I'm having issues with where the upper control arm on the passenger side bolts on top of the axle. It bolts up but I noticed that the bottom part of the control arm is touching the top plate on the truss which is putting a lot of pressure on my johnny joint and popping the snap ring out. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue or what I should do about it to fix it. My jeep is a 2000 Cherokee with 4.5 inch rough country long arm lift. Thanks for any advice or help

C907JJQ

31FQBPk
 
I pic would be nice, but get out your grinder........
 
Rough Country is a radius arm setup, correct? I’d just grind down the truss a bit. I’ve done 10 or more Artec Trusses over the years and never seen any issues but stuff happens. They can’t account for every possible setup out there.
 
since its a radius arm, this is a common issue. I trimmed my upper arm ear to go around my tnt truss. Its because the new mounts sit higher up.



you might want to run a rubber bushing in the uca mount on the axle. you might find there's not enough play in the JJ to allow you to attach the control arm.
 
Could I possibly adjust my caster on my axle? Just another thought i was thinking of, if not that's fine. I'm just open to most of any options possible. And I agree they cant a count for all setups. I just ran into the known issue of that UCA bracket snapping 1 time while I was wheelin and decided to go this route with the truss setup.
 
Also if I go the route of grinding down my the truss how much or far should I grind down? Should I consider enough for when I go wheelin and for how much I articulate for it?
 
That upper arm is fixed to the lower and as such the angle shouldn't change at all when articulating. You could also run w/o the upper arm on that side. I've never done it personally, but its a fairly common practice and is supposed to help with suspension bind.

If your caster is off then yes, you should do that first. If its where its supposed to be then don't. Caster is an important part of how the vehicle handles and steers.
 
I thought about running without that control arm (passenger side) but was worried that it might cause issues with my axle twisting front to back some, I may be wrong here but was just something I worried about. If I removed that arm would it basically be like a 3 link setup?? Or am i wrong on that part
 
I thought about running without that control arm (passenger side) but was worried that it might cause issues with my axle twisting front to back some, I may be wrong here but was just something I worried about. If I removed that arm would it basically be like a 3 link setup?? Or am i wrong on that part

its still a radius arm, just with a single upper...

i think the JJs are half your issue. as the axle articulates the two radius arms are trying to twist the axle in different direction. this is why most radius arms are designed with poly bushings at the axle (or in the case of the D30, use the stock bushing on the upper). the bushings are needed to take up some of the "bind" that the system inherently has. the JJ, being a cartridge joint, doesnt have the same "give" that a bushing does. thats probably contributing to the JJ spitting out snap rings.

personally, i would grind the truss and/or move the upper mounts so that the upper arms clear. and remove the JJs.

if you are going to remove one upper, i would suggest that all 3 of your joints at the axle are hard joints (JJ, heim, etc...)
 
Ditch that JJ. Even if you fix this problem, you'll eventually have another, most likely resulting in one of the mounts fatiguing and crapping the bed on you. Radius arms have bind when you flex out, with solid bushings on both upper and lower mount, you're asking the mount and control arms to bear most of the stress of this bind.
 
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