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  #1  
Old October 18th, 2008, 09:34
XJ Stryker's Avatar
XJ Stryker XJ Stryker is offline
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Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Replacing the fuel filter on Renix Xj's is pretty easy and straight forward but for those of you who are not too confident as a mechanic yet. I have made a write up as simplistic as possible.

This is your Fuel filter it is located above your rear axle on the driver's side wall.



First gather up your tools you need.

I have hose clamp pliers, flat-tip and 10mm socket with socket-wrench. That is all the tools you need for the job.



First I disconnected the fuel pump connection in front of the fuel filter.
Attached the hose clamp Pliers to the Lt. side (inlet) of the fuel filter.



Then loosened all of the hose clamps.



Once all the hose clamps were loose I removed the top 10mm bolt that holds the filter in place.



Then I pulled the Rt. Side (Outlet)hose off. CAUTION fuel will come out. I had an old folgers bucket ready. One the fuel stop coming out remove the other hose. Simple way to remove is just twist and pull. If that doesnt work you may have to cut a small section of the hose off.



Next I prepped the new filter with a new small piece of hose and new hose clamps.



Reinstalled inlet and outlet hoses the attached the clamp with the 10mm bolt and you are almost done.





Finished



When starting your vehicle after changing the filter. I primed my new filter by turning the key to the run position 3 times. Then I turned to start and she fired right up with no hic-cups.

Hope this Write-up helps some one out!
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Old October 18th, 2008, 15:54
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Good job. I usually relief the fuel pressure from the top
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Old October 18th, 2008, 16:28
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Nicely done, but I'd like to point up a couple of things:

1) It's usually not a good idea to use plastic for a fuel container, unless it's rated for fuel. I have a set of old stainless bowls in the garage for this sort of thing - I keep them clean, so I can dump the fuel back in (at $3+/gallon, I save all I can!) Check dollar stores and suchlike, you can probably find a decent set of either stainess or dull chrome steel bowls that you won't feel bad about for a good price.

2) Not everyone has hose clamp pliers. It's a good idea - got a source for low-buck ones? Most people do have vise grips, and you can approximate hose clamps with vise grips around a clothespin (don't use the bare jaws on the hose - you'll chew up the hose!)

3) Relieving pressure is a good idea. If you do not have a fuel pressure test gage (most people won't,) you can put a couple of rags around the Scrader valve on the fuel rail, and use a small screwdriver to press the pin. Hold it until fuel stops flowing, get the rags out and into a bowl.

Oh - and I'd suggest wearing latex or Nitrile gloves - fabric or synth-leather gloves can soak up fuel, and if your skin is at all sensitive, you'll end up with a rash on your hands for a few days (contact dermatitis. Nothing dangerous - just damned irritating.) If you wear latex, get the filter out and get the gloves off - latex can dissolve in gasoline. Nitrile will last somewhat longer, I use them when doing solvent work (Nitrile just doesn't "breathe" as well as latex. I go through probably eight boxes of latex for each box of Nitrile I use.)

Apart from that, very nicely done! And, aren't early HO rigs equipped with a fuel filter in much the same place? I think they kept that until they went with the "lifetime internal" fuel filter ca. 1997 or so (dumb idea, y'ask me...)
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Old October 18th, 2008, 17:44
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Thanks for the reply 5-90 you knowledge has helped me out of many jams when searching through threads.

I wasn't planning on reusing the fuel aprox. 3 minutes after draining the filter the fuel went on an ant bed and I watched them burn while sipping a beer. But if I was saving the fuel that is a great Idea.

Good point on the hose clamp pliers that sounds like some good cajun engineering you done there. I guess I didn't think about other people not having them I couldn't imagine not having them now lol.

I actually thought about this hard I have the guage and relieved the pressure on my other waggie when I did the fuel filter. To tell you the truth I saw no difference really when I removed the outlet line. Fuel dumped the same way. Not relieving the pressure was more less a test to see if it was a step that could be eliminated and I feel that you can.

Gloves I need some lecturing on this, I hate gloves and hardly ever where them the only ones I will usually ever where are standard mechanics gloves and they are covered with lord knows how much goo.

I have no clue on where the fuel filter is on HO rigs. I just got reemed on my Motor Mounts, Oil filter adapter write up do to the fact that I didnt specify it was renix lol.

Thanks for all the comments!



Question for 5-90.. Looking for the specs of the two bolts that hold the transmission mount to the tranny. I know they are 3/4 wrenching head but I can't find any more about them. I just found out my wives rig is missing them
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  #5  
Old October 18th, 2008, 20:05
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

This is a nice write-up and well done with good pics. As usual 5-90's additions are some things I would never think of until AFTER I did the job.
The first time I did the job I did relieve the fuel pressure (ala rags @ Schrader valve) and didn't get any fuel in my face. I also could not believe how much fuel came out of the filter and it's condition.

Just as an addendum I wrote the date/mileage that I replaced the filter right on the filter with a permanent pen. My memory ain't what it used to be so I try to label and date everything I can.
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Old October 18th, 2008, 20:22
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

I sign and date all maintenance items - pressure bottle, filters, cap & rotor - it's just good practise. I've been hit in the head too many times to remember anything, what's yer excuse?

If you've been sitting long enough for the engine to cool down (you should - fuel on a hot exhaust isn't fun...) you should have had the pressure already bleed down. This doesn't have anything to do with fuel draining from the filter - it's not under pressure, but there's still static volume of about a half pint there, and relieving the pressure doesn't drain it.

Engine mounts and the oil filter adapter didn't change much - the only real change would be to the oil filter adapter job, early HO took a 5/8" hex key and late HO takes a T-60. Both have to be improvised if you want to do the job without having to jack up the engine to clear the frame member, but it's plenty doable.

It's a cinch the screws for the transmission mount to the transmission case are metric (the AW4 is a Toyota design, the BA-10 is Frog, and the AX-15 is also Toyota,) and that would actually be a 19m/m wrenching head. If I recall ISO standards correctly, the 19m/m wrenching head comes back to an M12 (1.75m/m or 2.0m/m thread pitch, I don't recall...) screw, and match the underhead length (the studs from the mount cushion to the crossmember should be M8-1.25, use Nylon collar locking nuts. Replace if removed - they're cheap, and using new ones is cheap insurance.) If I've been told what it is, it's on my site, so check there.

Gloves - the fabric/synthleather "Mechanic's Gloves" are excellent for any "dry" job you're going to run across, and they've saved me burns and plenty of gouges in my paws (I'd sooner go drop $20 on another pair of gloves than be handicapped for a week while I'm knitting.)

Latex - use these for "wet" jobs - valve covers and oil sumps come readily to mind. They don't protect you as much from burns and scrapes, but they'll save you from irritant effects of oils and mild solvents. They also breathe fairly well, so you won't get too hot. You'll change them fairly often (it's nice to be able to get clean hands in a few seconds, vice having to go wash several dozen times a day as well.)

Nitrile - these are the "blue" gloves. Nitrile rubber is more resistant to solvents than latex, which is what I use them for (organic solvents include the heavier alcohols, gasoline, acetone, turpentine, naptha, xylene, and the like.) Some parts cleaning solvents can literally dissolve latex in short order - Nitrile rubber is a relative of the stuff they use to make fuel hoses and pump diaphragms. It's not Butyl or Viton, but it's close. NB: Nitrile does not "breathe" like latex - and your hands are going to get sweaty in a hurry. It's a trade-off, and it's why I go through one box of Nitrile for every eight boxes of Latex or so - I only use Nitrile for solvent work.)

When selecting a glove, you want a "slightly tight" fit. This gives maximum dexterity (you don't want a fit so close that it constricts your hand,) and maximum sensation (product of the "second skin" fit.) A good test? For mechanic's gloves, try to pick a quarter up off of a flat surface while wearing them. For latex/Nitrile, try a penny or a dime (a penny is good, a dime is excellent.) Only the fingers of one hand, and no fair using anything or sliding it to the edge of the table!
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Old October 18th, 2008, 23:48
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

I posted the tranny mount bolt size spec here for 5-90 about 6-9 months ago. IIRC it was 12M-1.75 or 12M-2.00. I found mine missing while replacing a front drive shaft u-Joint that started out sounding like a bad rear end on sharp right turns under acceleration. The thread title is likely odd, something about rear end noise, but turned into a front DS u-joint and tranny mount bolt size discusion.

I like my gloves a little loose, or none at all, but when I use them (they come in handy when handling NaCN, HF and HNO3, and other such nice stuff) I prefer the clear polyethylene gloves. They are impervious to most anything, except a sharp knife.
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Old October 19th, 2008, 00:09
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecomike View Post
I posted the tranny mount bolt size spec here for 5-90 about 6-9 months ago. IIRC it was 12M-1.75 or 12M-2.00. I found mine missing while replacing a front drive shaft u-Joint that started out sounding like a bad rear end on sharp right turns under acceleration. The thread title is likely odd, something about rear end noise, but turned into a front DS u-joint and tranny mount bolt size discusion.

I like my gloves a little loose, or none at all, but when I use them (they come in handy when handling NaCN, HF and HNO3, and other such nice stuff) I prefer the clear polyethylene gloves. They are impervious to most anything, except a sharp knife.
I hear you on the gloves. But, they're like any other tool - you wouldn't use a hammer to drive a screw, would you? You're not likely to run across NaCN, HF, or HNO3 while working on a vehicle (you're not trying to poison anyone, etch glass, or make blasting jelly, right?)
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Old October 19th, 2008, 02:38
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
I hear you on the gloves. But, they're like any other tool - you wouldn't use a hammer to drive a screw, would you? You're not likely to run across NaCN, HF, or HNO3 while working on a vehicle (you're not trying to poison anyone, etch glass, or make blasting jelly, right?)
MMMM blasting jelly... yum... free's up them stuck bowels real good...

Anyways, I'm sure glad that I don't have bad skin, I tend to never use gloves... I do love the mechanics brand ones though, I just tore mine to crap and am too cheap to replace them...

Oh, and learn to play guitar or a stringed instrument! It'll save your fingers if you aren't sure how hot something is! My callouses really are great...
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Old October 19th, 2008, 07:45
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Thanks for the bolt size I will bring this info to my local ace hardware and see what I can get. I have a feeling I will have to pull a Crossmember at the locak JY to get these bolts though.
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Old October 19th, 2008, 08:15
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Nice write up! I would also add that with the age on the inlet hose I would replace it. Its important to make sure you use fuel injection rated fuel hose and fuel injection hose clamps (yes they are better than worm clamps!) Regular fuel hose will burst with the pressure from the pump. I seldom clamp-off the hose, if you relieve pressure at the rail, only a little bit of fuel will drain out.

Note the inlet hose is a larger diameter than the outlet hose, the inlet is 3/8"i.d. and the outlet is 5/16"i.d.
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Old October 19th, 2008, 11:53
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
I hear you on the gloves. But, they're like any other tool - you wouldn't use a hammer to drive a screw, would you? You're not likely to run across NaCN, HF, or HNO3 while working on a vehicle (you're not trying to poison anyone, etch glass, or make blasting jelly, right?)
Well that depends on the screw, and whether I am pissed off at it, LOL.

No, just pointing out that the PE gloves are much more resistant to chemicals including most solvents. Some people (doctors and dentists....) are allergic to latex, they build up an allergy to latex over time, deathly allergic in some cases.
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Old October 19th, 2008, 14:48
mrpeepers mrpeepers is offline
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

is it possible to have an air bubble in the fuel line if you dont clamp it off?

Is clamping off the fuel a "must do"?

Much like burping a coolant system in the RENIX, is that necessary to prevent future fuel problems?
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Old October 19th, 2008, 14:58
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpeepers View Post
is it possible to have an air bubble in the fuel line if you dont clamp it off?

Is clamping off the fuel a "must do"?

Much like burping a coolant system in the RENIX, is that necessary to prevent future fuel problems?
Yes.

No.

No.

It's not a Diesel - gasoline fuel injection systems can recover neatly from having an air bubble in the lines. I've done probably a couple of dozen RENIX filters by now, I don't have hose clamp pliers (I only improvised one to see if it could be done - you are still going to lose fuel dropping the filter) and haven't had a problem other than a slightly slow first start afterwards, as the pump fills the lines. Cycle the key a couple of times before you crank (OFF-ON-OFF-ON-START, pause 10 seconds or so at ON) and you'll be fine filling everything back up.
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Old October 19th, 2008, 15:36
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

so i just did this like 10 min ago and its such a simple job! the pics are nive to reference.
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