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241OR swap help

Unibuddy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Roanoke, va
I've been slowly swapping a 241 rock trac from a jk into my 99 XJ over the past month and after clocking it flat with a 3/8" ring and hacking up the tranny tunnel I finally got the jeep running again on Sunday. After a shake down run and about an hour drive, I pull over for gas and the transmission is spewing fluid everywhere. I get it home before I kill the tranny, but now what? I put gasket sealer on both sides of the clocking ring and the tranny and tcase seemed to have plenty of spline engagement. What could be the issue? Anyone else had this problem or something similar? Any help would be GREAT
 
It looks like from between the tranny and clocking ring. I didn't replace any seals, just gasket between the aforementioned pieces. Is there something I should have replaced on the transmission? I don't believe the input shaft of the tcase was too long or short for the trannys output. I can't remember the exact measurements for each, but I know they didn't seem abnormal.
 
No need for any gaskets or sealent between the pieces is needed. There's a seal on the output of the tranny that the t-case input slides/seals into. I've found that often when t-cases are changed, the seals start to leak afterwards. From now on when I do case swaps, I like to take the extra couple of minutes and put a new seal in. I grabbed on from Napa for a few bucks when I swapped a Stak 3spd into my 99.
 
No need for any gaskets or sealent between the pieces is needed. There's a seal on the output of the tranny that the t-case input slides/seals into. I've found that often when t-cases are changed, the seals start to leak afterwards. From now on when I do case swaps, I like to take the extra couple of minutes and put a new seal in. I grabbed on from Napa for a few bucks when I swapped a Stak 3spd into my 99.

If it's easy to change that seal, go for it. Like you said it's cheap. Most of them have to be knocked from the inside out though, which usually requires pulling the tailhousing off.

However I had great luck with just lubing up the input shaft on the seal surface with some grease and being gentle sliding the t-case back on.

I had my NP231 in and out off the back of my 200k+ mile AW4 countless times and never touched that seal.
 
If it's easy to change that seal, go for it. Like you said it's cheap. Most of them have to be knocked from the inside out though, which usually requires pulling the tailhousing off.
The AW4 is inserted from the outside, no need to touch the tailhousing.

I've found that often when t-cases are changed, the seals start to leak afterwards.
I didn't use any lube and I wasn't gentle.

:D
Coincidence?

I think not.

:D

I know not, not with my t-case atleast. :D


No need for any gaskets or sealent between the pieces is needed. There's a seal on the output of the tranny that the t-case input slides/seals into. I've found that often when t-cases are changed, the seals start to leak afterwards. From now on when I do case swaps, I like to take the extra couple of minutes and put a new seal in. I grabbed on from Napa for a few bucks when I swapped a Stak 3spd into my 99.

You found that out after you put my transfercase in and I found a giant puddle on my ground the next day. That is the only reason you know about that seal, because I had to show you a picture to make you believe me :).

OP. I had a little issues finding the correct seal at NAPA. Their catalogues had seals listed for up to '98, and '00+. After talking with the guys for a little while at NAPA, we eventually found the correct part number. I'm no where close to my garage for a while, otherwise I'd go try to find the number for you.

How did you make the speedo work with the JK case? Or did you not bother?
 
Right, same with my NV4500.

I meant in order to get the old seal out.

I've never done it, so like I said, just not sure how you would get the old seal out without removing the tailhousing.

That is the only time my seal puller from harbor freight has actually worked. It has bent every other time I've tried it.
 
I think the 3/8" clocking ring has moved the input shaft to far out of the transmission seal.
 
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