Shackle relocation without new box

So for the price of a right angle drill, a few appropriate length drill bits and some grade 10.9 hardware, my shackles are relocated. The new mount point has to be 2.25 inch forward to avoid the bulge around the factory attachment nut. Shackle angle went from vertical to 33 degrees laid back. The ride is massively improved.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Pics of the inside and what you did about a spacer and nut would have been nice?

Also, if you ever go wheeling it's most likely to hit the front of the shackle box limiting your drop-out!

I dont think it will ever hit either side. Most likely never the front.

Pretty damn cool mod for cheap.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Yep, the shackle is vertical at full spring droop, and on the driver side, the shock reaches full extension about 0.5" of travel before the spring hits full droop. Since the axle shims rotate the axle and create more available shock extension on the passenger side, there is perhaps another 0.75" of extension beyond full spring droop could be forced out of the passenger side, but I still don't think the shackle will hit the box.

I wrote the wrong relocate distance last night. A 2.0" shift is required to clear the bulge. There's 0.75" of spacer material on the inboard side between the unibody rail and the shackle. This is non-ideal from the perspective of putting some bending moment on the bolt, but I'll take my chances. Also, the unibody rail is double-thick on sheet metal within the shackle box, so there is enough meat to support the bolt especially when comparing to the outboard side that is only single-thick sheet metal. Overall, probably not as tough as an aftermarket shackle box install, but the ease of installation was too good to pass up.

I completely agree. If it doesn't hold up then at that point rethink it but I think youl be just fine.
No reason to over think it just send it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

What size lift are you doing this on and how much rear lift did you lose? I cannot imagine very much, but no doubt lost a little.

Neat. What did you do for a nut, get a wrench inside the unibody rail from the end?

jester1341 said:

What size lift are you doing this on and how much rear lift did you lose? I cannot imagine very much, but no doubt lost a little.

Click to expand...

What part of West Virginia do you live in I'm in Dunbar West Virginia 25064

jester1341 said:

What size lift are you doing this on and how much rear lift did you lose? I cannot imagine very much, but no doubt lost a little.

Click to expand...

4.5" lift, but the rear was a bit stink-bugged before I did the relocate. The change in effective shackle height due to be leaned back is about 0.6" for my 4.8" c-to-c shackle, but the change in wheel travel is only half of what's happening at the shackle, so the rear dropped 0.3" due to just the change in the effective height of the shackle. The spring is probably compressed a bit more, but I haven't measured yet. Overall, I'd say that the rear is sitting about 0.5" lower which is pretty much exactly what I wanted, so I got lucky on that.

XJlimitedx99 said:

Neat. What did you do for a nut, get a wrench inside the unibody rail from the end?

Click to expand...

Yep. I used a magnet rod to fish the washer and nut in there. Currently I have a grade 10.9 nut and washer in there, but I got my hands on a grade 10.9 flange nut yesterday that I will use instead. Ace is the place.

jeep ride said:

What part of West Virginia do you live in I'm in Dunbar West Virginia 25064

Click to expand...

Nowhere near, I’m outside martinsburg in Berkeley county, might as well be Maryland.

jester1341 said:

Nowhere near, I’m outside martinsburg in Berkeley county, might as well be Maryland.

Click to expand...

You are right about that ,thanks for answering my question though