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Nightmare midarm 3 link rehabilitation

ShoeterMcgav said:
Waiting for JJs and dom to get the lower CAs in.. And the body side bracket to come in so that I can figure out how to proceed. Really like the IRO flex joint! Gotnit installed and am glad I won't have to ever burn any rubber out of the diff again! Got my steering components painted and heim joints for the dub J beefy steering so thats a plus.

I used a ball joint press for the flex joint... Got me thinkn I should do the actual ball jojnts. So that should be fun. I think doing it outside of the heep will make it more of a pita then it already is... But meh, I want the front end DONE. top to bottom.

Also on the list (as of yet not purchased or sourced) is beefy diff cover, axle truss, and hydro assist. The hydro assist will greatly help turn the locked 35s... Thought I had help to tapp the gear box locally, now it looks like I will be tapping the box myself. So that should be interesting. I want to get the ram welded on before I truss it too. Still need to pick what and where for both ram and truss though. Should prolly source the truss I want, nd might could mount the ram to it. Idk, artic4×4 has a niiiice one for a semi decent price.


So ya pretty much spinning my wheels, but not literally at all!
Click to expand...
if you dont mind my asking, did you source your dom locally?

dude on the youtube "martinbuilt" taps one. I would have no reservations on doing this other than the actual cost of this upgrade. one day perhaps after a bigger gear box.

any thoughts on what cover?
 
Ya the ruffstuff is BEEFY... I like the recessed bolt holes on the Ridler cover
 
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I've only bought a couple sticks of dom. My local steel supplier brings it out of utah im in idaho
I've also bought dom from ruff stuff
I've got the ruff stuff cover on my dana 30.

Cover could serve double duty as surface to mount hydraulic ram. Maybe.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
I'll probably just stick with the traditional look mounted to axle tube on the passenger side and to the tie rod. I picked up a spare steering gear to tapp and rebuild. Its one of those things I feel comfortable doing, but itd be nice to have someone whos done it before around to share best practices and such. Still need to source the parts etc
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
if you dont mind my asking, did you source your dom locally?

dude on the youtube "martinbuilt" taps one. I would have no reservations on doing this other than the actual cost of this upgrade. one day perhaps after a bigger gear box.

any thoughts on what cover?
Click to expand...
No I did not. Not sure anuone is operating locally.

Cost? Relatively low for a diy kit. Ram, fittings, lines, and tabs should all be found at a local tractor suppy co or similar for under a couple hundred bucks. A "bigger gear box" or aftermarket for that matter is what gets pricey. PSC is $$$ but makes good stuff. A Durango gear with snow plow package is said to be an upgrade. My thought process is the ram will alleviate the stress the gear box is under and make it similar to stock turnung 35s with a locker so shouldnt need bigger better
 
What steering set up are you running.
Aswell as my stock steering steers aired down sticky tires . I've not felt the need to ad a ram assist.
I'm very minimal lift though so steering angles arent bad.

I don't know for certain and may be talking out my ass but a steering box off a 2nd gen dodge pickup might bolt on or be close to bolt on.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Im running 35s with manual hubs and a locker, so its not the angles its the locker it doesn't turn very easy lol

I have WJ knuckles and 1ton steering. Steering brace to transfer the stress to both frame rails. A power steering cooler and Heims for the track bar. With the wj knuckles you delete the Y link.

Ive read mixed results on the durango box. Like you lose some turning radius.

On my zj the wagoneer box was a good upgrade since it used 4 bolts instead of 3.. Ripped the stock gear box of the frame so it was a no brainer.
 
When I swapped in a durango box there was no loss in radius or anything. One of the better upgrades I did on my XJ but you have to swap in the WJ pump too.
 
smokeyyank said:
When I swapped in a durango box there was no loss in radius or anything. One of the better upgrades I did on my XJ but you have to swap in the WJ pump too.
Click to expand...

97 and below for the pump no?


ive read both no turning radius issues and some issues for the box. This may be snow plow related. I guess it doesnt matter if you choose a psc box. I you choose a durango box, there is a 4 bolt hole option if you want to add the extra hole. Otherwise theres a stock 3 bolt pattern unit available.

i didnt know the hardware and ram were so cheap, i guess ive only seen psc units really.

im looking forward to how this shakes out shooter:cheers:
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
97 and below for the pump no?


ive read both no turning radius issues and some issues for the box. This may be snow plow related. I guess it doesnt matter if you choose a psc box. I you choose a durango box, there is a 4 bolt hole option if you want to add the extra hole. Otherwise theres a stock 3 bolt pattern unit available.

i didnt know the hardware and ram were so cheap, i guess ive only seen psc units really.

im looking forward to how this shakes out shooter:cheers:
Click to expand...

Pump was from a WJ with a V8. Box trying to remember all the specifics but yes had to be the plow package. Went from struggling to turn the 33's to using a pinky. Install was pretty easy. Box is way bigger so needed extra washers to push it out from the unibody. Pump needed some mounting mods but nothing crazy. I would do it again but only on a rig that had stiffeners. I ended up cracking the unibody at the box because of it.
 
If you're concerned about tapping the box watch this video.
https://youtu.be/9i7ywjpbxYs
If the link doesn't work go to muddy beards 4x4 YouTube channel. It's a cool way to not have to mess with the box nearly as much. I've been thinking of doing this myself.

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SlowXj said:
If you're concerned about tapping the box watch this video.
https://youtu.be/9i7ywjpbxYs
If the link doesn't work go to muddy beards 4x4 YouTube channel. It's a cool way to not have to mess with the box nearly as much. I've been thinking of doing this myself.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That’s pretty cool... with it being so “easy” to drill in those places- even not using the 4x4diy part and just tapping that piece on the gear box.. I’d wonder about flow. There is a reason that PSC and others tap the gear box where they do wouldn’t ya think? Idk, just doesn’t seem like the same pressure would be found at those locations on the box. Maybe I’m dead wrong
 
I'm running the Durango box on 35s with sfr wj conversion and with the locker locked it doesn't want to turn at all. Just had the box tapped and bought a ram and ruff stuff cover to mount it to. Hopefully have it done in a couple weeks. May need the wj pump but gonna try a turned up stock pump with smaller pulley first
 
Idk. Hydro pressure should be close to the same if it is in the high pressure region... but who knows. Sure seems easier than taking the box apart. For 34 bucks I may try it within the year.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
cwyman6 said:
I'm running the Durango box on 35s with sfr wj conversion and with the locker locked it doesn't want to turn at all. Just had the box tapped and bought a ram and ruff stuff cover to mount it to. Hopefully have it done in a couple weeks. May need the wj pump but gonna try a turned up stock pump with smaller pulley first
Click to expand...



Ya that’s how my setup feels currently... locked and it’s straight line only! Lmao maybe not quite but it def hates turning. Did you pay a shop to tap it? I’m tryna decide the route to take get all the isht and get we done during the lockdown
 
SlowXj said:
Idk. Hydro pressure should be close to the same if it is in the high pressure region... but who knows. Sure seems easier than taking the box apart. For 34 bucks I may try it within the year.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Is the flow the same in the cap area? I truly have no idea
The idea and simplicity is certainly appealing. Just stating my concerns
The guy also cut into the front crossmember which I’d prefer to avoid. Interesting that they tapped the other cap in the video too. Seems if it were that easy more folks would be doing it there? If all things are equal and this method feeds the same, I still am not a fan of where that fitting is on the front of the box. I have 2 gear boxes to play with... so if I fork one up, I’ll consider the “quick and cheap” method or what ever he called it.

I’ve tapped engine blocks and all sorts of things in horrible positions, so I can’t imagine this being THAT Big of a deal... this keeps growing however... as do the honey dos with this lockdown
 
Back in 2007, I ran a Durango box. I had to remove/grind the internal space. Along a spacer to move it away from the frame.The DB is a good street option up to 36s. Yes I played in the rock. Not very successfully. is not a box you want to use for hydro assist. The larger volume of the box works against you. If hydro assist is the end goal. Stick with the factory box or equivalent.


Rebuilding a box is honestly not hard, you just need to pay attention
 
I'll add that I'm still running a DB in my daily. Resealed once. It's done me well. But ive gone through three pumps. All under warranty. I've not bothered to figure out why
 
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