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Well, that was a disaster.

U

Unclewolverine

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kansas
I pulled the 35 out if my 95 and put the 8.25 out of my 01 in. Install went fine until the driveshaft. Stock was too long. Already on the rusty part of the slide, probably less than one inch from bottoming at full extension. I switched the yolk onto the 01 driveshaft and its too short! Only 1/2 inch engaged at full extention, 3/4 at ride height. I have the front driveshaft out of the 01, but with the slider compressed its only 1/4 inch longer than the 01 rear.

So what should I do here, I need this to be finished tomorrow!

I can put the 35 back under it and pray it keeps together until I can figure out what to do;
I can slide the slider out on the front shaft some and weld it but is a front suitable for daily hard use?
I can try my luck at u pick it but the couple of xjs they have are 97+ optioned like my 01 so I bet their shafts are the same as I already got.
Or I could cut down my slip yolk some but I'd rather not, im going to put the 35 back in after a thorough rebuild.

What do i do here!?
 
Drive in front wheel drive mode while you have a local shop cut down your rear shaft and balance it.
 
I've always wondered about the feasibility of just driving an xj in just front wheel drive but I dont want to risk tearing something up. I don't want to cut the driveshaft down because I'm going to put the 35 back in after rebuilding
 
I've looked around some more and a lot of people are running front shafts in rears after doing a SYE, so i may try that first. I also saw where it has been mentioned that due to the design of the leaf springs that the length between the pinion and case doesn't change that much so i may try and compress my suspension and see if I can get away with using the long shaft. Off to try these now. Fingers crossed.
 
I ended up using the longer driveshaft. I compressed the suspension with some ratchet straps as much as I could and the yolk was just against the seal. So since my bump stops are shot I'm going to build some new ones that won't let it get past that point and hopefully have the funds to rebuild the 35 soon.
 
Why would you even consider rebuilding a D35???
 
I asked that in another of his threads recently, he's got ABS and wants to keep that working.
 
Yep, love my abs. Has factory limited slip too. Both of which are very handy when you do nothing but start and stop on hilly gravel roads all day.
 
Unclewolverine said:
Yep, love my abs. Has factory limited slip too. Both of which are very handy when you do nothing but start and stop on hilly gravel roads all day.
Click to expand...


You must be in the mountainous part of Kansas.
 
You would be surprised. Im in the North East glacial till region around the Missouri River. Hills are big enough there is a small ski resort less than 30 miles away. Terrain is actually similar to the Ozarks near branson.
 
Thanks, I saw that thread; according to that a 97+ with a d35 shaft is probably what would work but there are none to be had around. Hell, I've been looking for a good d35 for months and come up empty handed. Don't want to cut up my 242 and no point in a sye on a jeep thats not going to be lifted.
 
Of course, lol. I priced all the pieces to rebuild every piece of the brakes and every bearing and seal with Timken and national and yeowch! That stuff is getting pricy! Pulled the cover and there is almost no play in the ring and pinion, pretty much all the play is in the spider gears in the LSD. Might just rebuild the LSD and put a new pinion seal and brake shoes and a good cleaning.
 
I had to swap out my NP242 on my '93 for a stock NV242. The original driveshaft was bottoming out on the new transfer case. I cut off about 3/4" from the slip yoke to give it sufficient operating clearance and it's been like that for 13 years.
 
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