Removing ABS Module

Some years ago I swapped out the D35 with ABS for a C8.25 on my ‘99 XJ. As I recall, I just cut the wires to the wheel sensors and removed a fuse (and maybe a relay) to disable the ABS dash warning light. Now, if feasible, I’d like to get rid of the ABS module under the hood to free up space and increase air flow around the engine. I’ve searched, but cannot find a write-up on how best to do it. Would I have to replace all brake hard lines? Or is there an easier way, such as by connecting the master cylinder to the existing lines that presently feed out from the ABS module to the wheels? If so, can I use soft lines to make the connections? Or can I bend the existing lines to mount directly to the MC instead of to the ABS module? If anybody has done this before (and I assume plenty of folks have), any advice and photos would be appreciated.

Dont know but adding soft lines can cause a softer pedal as the soft lines do tend to swell when under pressure, of course teflon steel braid lines will resist swelling better than standard brake hose.
steel tube is the best bet. either bend existing tube to fit if it can be made to do so, or add needed length with a coupling or replace the whole line.

I did this on my XJ several years ago so don't remember the exact details but I'll go snap some pics for you later tonight.

Don't use softlines. Just bend (or remake) the hardlines to go to the master instead of the abs pump.

donthelegend said:

I'll go snap some pics for you later tonight.

Click to expand...

That’d be much appreciated!

And thanks, Black1990jeep and donthelegend, for the advice.

I removed the complete ABS on my 98. I used an adjustable proportioning valve from Summit Racing. The three hard lines on the chassis (front left and right and the rear line) I kept and needed to slightly tweak the shape to get them to line up with the ports on the valve body. I did make the mounting bracket to hold the prop valve to help make it easier to line up the chassis hard lines. If I remember I needed to change the nuts on the lines, so cut off the old flare, install the new nut, then redo the flare. It was tricky just in that there was not always allot of room to work with but I don't remember it being too bad.

The lines from the MC to the PV were made up using generic straight lines from the parts store. Again the only trick was making the flare, install the nut, then bend to shape and cut and flare the other side. The bends on the PV side are close to the nut so just needed to think it through and get a little creative with the order of putting it together.

I need to figure out how to add some photos... One second....

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Maybe this will work...

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Very helpful. Thank you!

Are you still running drum brakes in the rear? I’m wondering if I’d need to swap out the proportioning valve if I’m running disc brakes.

I seem to remember a post here on about someone using new lines from Inline Tube. Not sure about the prop valve, though.

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sjcb9501

Why not use a stock PV that fits your year (non-abs) and go from there? Pick-n-pull is your friend in this case.

I think I had a non-abs parts Jeep at the time and may have swapped more than just lines but I'm honestly not sure... Regardless, here's what it looks like now.

Hard to get good pics since I relocated the washer bottle to where the ABS pump used to be.

Basically there's a left front, right front, and combined rear line coming out of the prop valve - just make sure that they get routed to the correct location after removing the abs module and you should be fine. Use hard lines with unions if necessary, I would not use soft line. I think I was able to bend two of the factory lines to fit and had to add a union to the other based on how mine currently looks.

Cool. Thanks again, to all who responded.

I'm running a WJ front conversion and the rear is Ford 8.8 disks. That is part of why I wanted the extra adjustability of an aftermarket PV.

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