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Rubicon Express RE2602 steering

Oatmeal

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cedar City, UT
Anybody have any experience with their new(?) inverted y steering setup or, at least some opinions?
It seems to be pretty stout and similar to Currie's set up but, with the added convenience of readily available, off the shelf Moog (or similar) ends.
Was looking at doing OTK heim jointed steering but, decided I really didn't need to go that extreme.
Already have a RE track bar and didn't feel like going to all the hassle of building a new one to go over the axle and relocating my sway bar brackets.
Sorry about all the rambling.....so, opinions?
Oh, and it's a bit less expensive too.
Thanks,
Hans
 
It doesn't look anywhere near as well built as Currie. I definitely don't like the drag link adjustment, my Currie has been flawless for about 3yrs now.
 
Here's the difference....
Currie
currie-ce-9701-hd-tie-rod-jeep-wrangler-tj-xj-draglink-main.jpg

RE
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I run the 1-ton Cross over with WJ Knuckles. So, no direct experience with upgrade T or Y steering. I could not find a price on the Currie. I did look at Ruff Stuff, IRO, Stinky and Ironman 4X4 Fabricators. There are plenty of others out there.
The price I saw on the RE was $450-$500. That adjustment end looks like potential problem. A thread is a stress raiser along with the slot. I looked at adapting a WJ components. I gave up due to complications to shorten it and the WJ Guys had issues with the ends breaking off.
The Ruff Stuff T type looked good to me. You would have to ream out to 1-ton. Also run bigger rims.
Again, I am running a cross over and not the T or Y link. When I initially had it installed, I did not run a steering stabilizer. It was smooth. I could go 100 yard hands off going 55 mph. Then I had it aligned and DW followed. ???? Anyways, I did add a steering stabilizer. I used the clam shell clamp Ruff Stuff and Iron Rock sells. Recently, I installed the diff cover Ruff Stuff sells for the OTK setup. Needed or not needed, hard for me to say. Anyways, hope it helps, and its free advice. I think the Ruff Stuff is $450. But you would need to ream for drill for 1-ton taper inserts.
 
Thanks for the input but, I don't consider the adjustment system an issue, the split and pinch clamp is pretty much industry standard on just about every vehicle tie rod made.....even our stock Jeep's.
I like the double adjuster, I modified my track bar with one so that I could adjust it without unbolting the heim from the bracket.
I also like being able to replace just the tie rod ends instead of the whole drag link when it eventually wears out.
My Jeep isn't going to be an extreme rig and this will be a good upgrade to replace a bunch of 24 year old parts.
I ordered it and let you guys know how it works out.
Gotta be better than what I have now.
Hans
 
I don't think anybody use a tre as large and as strong as Currie's 1-1/8" high angle end.
0012328_ce-9701dlr-tjljxjmjzj-currectlync-drag-link-end.jpeg
 
7/8", same as RE and Synergy.
I do like the built in angle of the Currie end but, not the price if you have to replace one.
If your passenger side end ever needs to be replaced, you're looking at over $300 because, you have to replace the entire drag link.
I think I'll be fine with my choice.
Hans
 
The Currie pass side is only $170 but I doubt I'll live long enough to see it wear out. My factory set-up was 18yrs old when I replaced it (because it had some bends) but all the joints where still good.
 
I stand corrected, the drag link end is 1 1/8" ($80 to replace)
The TREs are 7/8 (split tube with pinch clamps, RE are solid with jamb nuts and wrench flats)
I'm sure it'll fit my needs just fine.....for a lot less money!
Hans
 
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