• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Anyone have an open NP242J to check something for me

X

XJAnne

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I’m freshening up my tcase out of my 2001 with a NP242. I pulled the shift fork and rod out like I’ve read others have done. I didn’t remove the cam or the pin. Anyway, when I put it back together I can’t shift it. It’s still on my bench, I’m trying to shift it using pliers on the lever and it’s not moving. Can someone who has their tcase open confirm I’ve got this in right?? I haven’t seen anyone else with this issue. It shifted and worked great in the vehicle before I tore it down.

I’d attach a picture but I haven’t figured that out yet (it’s asking for an url but I only have the pictures on my phone)

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
I just rebuilt a NP231J t-case a week ago and had a similar issue. I found that when the whole unit was put back together and bolted up it shifted fine again. Maybe try dry fitting everything back together and lightly bolting it together and then check. If that fixes the problem then take it apart and install the gasket sealer.
 
Thanks @Projectnevrending that's a great suggestion. I didn't really think I'd be able to shift it until I had it all together and on the Jeep using the 4wd lever. One problem is that I'm pretty sure I have to get the low shift fork to move in order to get the top shift fork on. Right now, I can't get the upper fork slider pin to line up in the upper slot of the cam.

I don't know if anyone noticed the gouging on the shift rod. This doesn't have anything to do with my problem but I've ordered a new rod to make sure everything moves well when its all together. Anyone else notice that theirs was gouged?

Keep the suggestions coming or a picture of your NP242 shift fork inserted into the bottom slot of the cam....
 
When rebuilding mine, I was able to thread the position sensor for the dash light in far enough that it bound up the rod, preventing it from shifting. Backed it off a little bit and everything works great.
 
Jim Malcolm said:
When rebuilding mine, I was able to thread the position sensor for the dash light in far enough that it bound up the rod, preventing it from shifting. Backed it off a little bit and everything works great.
Click to expand...

Wow I wouldn’t have expected that. Right now I don’t have the detent or position sensor installed. Another reason I think it should move. Thanks for reading and responding to my thread!

-Anne
 
The slider pin of the low gear shift fork fits into the cam where there is a 90 degree turn it has to make when I try to shift it. I don’t know how it’s designed to move around that sharp of a turn and that’s why I’m wondering if it’s not quite correct. Can anyone confirm it is installed correctly based on the pictures I’ve linked? It doesn’t seem like I can really put it on any other way but I’d feel better knowing someone else has confirmed it with theirs.

Thanks, Anne
 
Jim Malcolm said:
Very beginning of this video shows the teeth of on the shifter pawl oriented towards the simple hole in the housing versus the recessed hole shown in your videos. It is in fact in the wrong hole.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKRmaJsJ17g
Click to expand...

They look oriented in the same direction to me. Am I not seeing what you are talking about, I don’t think. Here’s a couple links to a comparison of the cases. I sorta colored in my picture and a still shot of the first few seconds of the video with the guy explaining it. The teeth in the cam are both facing the magnet recessed hole from what I can tell. Let me know if I’m not seeing it correctly.

Mine:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1i2nfl0oncbho3/IMG_8749.JPG?dl=0

From second video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd39u0dmr8454h2/IMG_8750.JPG?dl=0
 
Thanks Jim for finding that thread and video. I thought they would be promising. I've studied both before, and find it funny and interesting you found the same ones I thought would be most helpful. The videos I've watched make it really hard to tell, including the one attached, which is why I'm hoping someone in this large community has one open that shows it more clearly in real time preferably. When I get a chance I'll go down and snap a picture of my setup if I rotate it around. But I did that a day or so ago and the upper fork def won't line up but I'll document it better.

Can you give a couple more reference points, like the magnet recess, to show me where you see the cam is in the wrong position based on the video? I'm pretty positive the guy that has the gears out has the cam on backwards but if I'm wrong someone please confirm.

Anyone out there with an open NP242 that can snap a real time pic?
 
Okay I've re-watched all Chris' videos and I'm positive I've got my fork in correctly. So now my question is how do people shift it when it's on the bench. Is it easy to move or doesn't move past that low range 90 deg point on the cam without being installed on the jeep? I guess I'll keep fiddling with it to get the upper fork on. Thanks for the responses.
 
You do need to spin the input shaft to align the synchro rings.
 
RCP Phx said:
You do need to spin the input shaft to align the synchro rings.
Click to expand...

I just tried rotating the input while trying to turn the shift lever and it still wouldn’t shift. Then I took the low gear completely out to take that out of the equation and the pin in the rod won’t rotate past the turn in the slot in the cam.
 
I think I’ll throw it all together without the low gear in, like someone suggested, and then see if it shifts. Right now I can only get it to shift if I have the low gear out and the fork cocked over (where it can never be with the gear installed) so that the slider pinks halfway out of the slot. Hey then it shifts just fine, NOT.
 
UPDATE:
The input bearing is the wrong size and was keeping my planetary gear from seating all the way down. That was the problem. Back to the drawing board on getting replacement bearings. The was the USA standard kit off Amazon, it was supposed to fit my year. I’m sending it back. Anyone know where to get a good kit? This one was supposed to have Japanese Nachi bearings but it only had one Japanese bearing. The rest were no name and I wasn’t totally comfortable putting them in anyway.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ZomBrady
Things are looking up or how a couple of XJs gave me back my life
Replies
6
Views
164
ZomBrady
ZomBrady
S
Scratched bearing while replacing rear main seal
Replies
3
Views
1K
waxer
waxer
L
Manual to Auto transmission swap
Replies
9
Views
201
lvcanyoneer1
L
X
Renix AW4 to external AX15
Replies
5
Views
3K
XJ-Mayhem
X
K
TUPY head on 01 Cherokee
Replies
11
Views
3K
75SV1
7
Back
Top