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RE 3.5 leaf pin for shim

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
Starting to get some Vibes need to install shims.

I contacted Rubicon Express. They say 7/16 pin is what I need. Does this sound right, I've read different? And does anybody know if there is a torque spec for a leaf spring pin?
 
Why not measure the existing pins for confirmation ? All fasteners have a torque spec, you can consult your Factory Service Manual, or use the Google and torque to a Standard Steel Bolt Torque Specification.
 
well im guessing the FSM doesnt apply to after market parts.

Is there a normal torque for the bolt/pin, or is the torque on the pin set per the application?



Ive also read the bolt should be 3/8 for my exact spring, and this has been on forums and purchase reviews... sooo Im turning to those who may have done this.

I can ballpark the bolt with a ruler, but torque would be helpful.
 
You can probably just get the torque spec from a table/chart for that particular bolt size/grade. It isn't going to be like a head or main cap bolt that is going into cast iron. It should be standard nut/bolt fare that you could find in an engineer's Pocket Ref.

I expect you are just looking at a cap screw. You will need to pull things apart to know for certain. Here was my experience with my OME springs: OME leaf spring fun.
 
perch was fine, 3/8 allen bolts worked great after drilling, i think 4" lengths. It did however push the pinion closer to my TC and now the 99 front driveshaft being used with a hack n tap sye doesnt fit.

Hadnt read that consideration before but maybe this helps someone later.
 
perch was fine, 3/8 allen bolts worked great after drilling, i think 4" lengths. It did however push the pinion closer to my TC and now the 99 front driveshaft being used with a hack n tap sye doesnt fit.

Hadnt read that consideration before but maybe this helps someone later.

Are you sure you got the pin in the center hole on the axle? IIRC there are 3(holes) on the pearch,but only 1 in the center.
 
In a pinch when needing a center pin now, and none are immediately available, take the right diameter bolt, chuck it up in a drill motor and spin the head against a spinning grinder wheel.
This changes the hex head into a round one, while reducing the head's diameter until the right size is achieved .
 
quite certain, the center hole has to be opened up if you us RE leafs, ide already done this years ago. iirc the other holes are square.

Yes, But why won't the driveshaft fit? A shim will change the angle a few degrees, but not the length.
 
Yes, But why won't the driveshaft fit? A shim will change the angle a few degrees, but not the length.

well it didnt change much, but its enough that it no longer fits.

if im correct the axle moves in an arc, it will bring the pinion closer/ further from the tc output as it moves.

believe me I tried every bit of flexing/jackstand/ compression to see if it would gos in, but the angle has changed the parameters of where this arc now starts. just barley too much closer to the tc where the DS will not fit and its fully compressed. Its quite close, visually it was tempting, if the ears of the yoke were not there it may be close to seating haha.

not a chance game to play with an aluminum housed TC.

shims were 8* it may have been just enough to close this gap. when the pinion was pointed parallel to the ground, it is further from the TC. once the shims were added the shifting of the pinion has been brought ever so slightly closer. if this isnt the case i dont know how to explain it because the u bolt plates would not be sitting flat, if it was off like you asked.
 
The head of the center pin will fit in any of the 2 squares fore or aft of the correct center hole. Either hole could make the axle location different.

It seems that the DS was not a good length anyway,there should be more travel in a correct length DS.
 
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