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  #1  
Old August 1st, 2020, 20:18
Runnin'OnEmpty's Avatar
Runnin'OnEmpty Runnin'OnEmpty is offline
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Question Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

What about replacing the radiator fan blade and clutch with
an aftermarket direct-drive fan? Since the stock clutch runs
at about 80% shaft RPM at full engagement and a direct-drive
fan would run at 100%, it might be more efficient???

(In searching, nothing turned up. Just wondered if anyone had
tried this to solve our overheating issues?)
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  #2  
Old August 1st, 2020, 23:49
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

Iíve heard of ZJ clutch fans being an upgrade? Canít vouch for it though... good vents, aftermarket pump and radiator, and Iíve had good luck with the purple ICE additive made by royal purple..

Interested to see what replies you get thi
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  #3  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 04:21
RCP Phx RCP Phx is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

Overall it's considered a bad idea on a 4wd specially it you do any water crossings.
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Old August 2nd, 2020, 07:07
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

A direct drive fan is less efficient. It take HP to turn the fan, when it is not needed or only partially needed, a fan clutch reduces the power necessary to spin the fan.

Some people say that installing a Ford Explorer plastic 11 blade fan moves more CFM's. The 7 blade XJ HD cooling fan was discontinued long ago.


Overheating is usually never caused by one single faulty component, it is usually caused by lack of routine cooling system maintenance leading to numerous weak or worn out cooling parts.
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Originally Posted by bimmerjeeper

People are dumbfounded when I tell them I know how to change the spark plugs on a car.
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Old August 2nd, 2020, 10:08
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

Usually, maybe. But in my case everything is new dealer except the radiator which is Spectra. No rust, scale, or anything behind water pump and T stat housing. Still tries to overheat until aux fan kicks on at 220. Can't run a/c or it does overheat unless moving at a decent speed and not uphills. I am pretty much convinced it's a lack of airflow from clutch fan at low rpm/idle. Clutch is new dealer and does lockup as you can hear the fan change pitch it just doesn't move enough air. This is a stock Jeep, not lifted. No tranny cooler in front of radiator.
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Old August 2nd, 2020, 10:24
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

Maybe you have a bad tstat? Ive seen "new" out of the box not open when it was supposed to
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93zj BEAST 35s Claytons LAs 44/hp30 lockers bumpers headers etc $old
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  #7  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 11:38
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

It runs right around 200 all other times except in traffic, drive throughs, or low rpm operation like climbing a hill going slow, worse with a/c all the new parts improved cooling zero percent over the old parts, so hundreds of $$$ down the drain for nothing
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Old August 2nd, 2020, 11:45
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

Over heating in the drive-thru, in stop-n-go traffic, or on the 4x4 trails is a primary symptom of a faulty mechanical fan clutch.

XJ 4.0L run about 195*-210* and the e-fan turns on at about 218-220*. I have had crappy thermostats that were lazy about opening fully, or only lasted a year or two.

A 4 cylinder Cherokee fan clutch engages sooner and spins faster that the stock 4.0L clutch. You just have to be very sure it fits with enough clearance and the the motor mounts are fresh.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerjeeper

People are dumbfounded when I tell them I know how to change the spark plugs on a car.

Last edited by Tim_MN; August 2nd, 2020 at 11:53.
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  #9  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 11:55
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

It's a new dealer clutch, that you can hear when it's engaged at higher speeds, when it's hot it doesn't even make 1 revolution when you spin it. Not that that means it's good. Maybe the 1 core Spectra is not shedding enough heat to activate the thermal part of the fan at low speeds or idling in traffic. I even modified the shroud so more of the blades are surrounded, like they should be.
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Old August 2nd, 2020, 11:56
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

220* is not overheating if the e-fan comes on and the temps go down. I prefer a two core radiator.
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Quote:
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People are dumbfounded when I tell them I know how to change the spark plugs on a car.
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  #11  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 12:00
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

220 is not overheat but if I can't run the a/c at the same time or it boils over, completely filling the reservoir and puking on the ground. It should be able to run without the aux fan coming on at all, with a/c off, as it's a backup. Yes, I have pressure tested the 16 lbs cap and an 18lbs cap. Still does it.
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  #12  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 12:01
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

Guess I'll find a 4 banger clutch and try that
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  #13  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 12:31
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

I know mine, with the 4 banger clutch and a 195 t-stats...runs 200-205 deg with the A/C on in traffic....

and my stuff is old....trans cooler in front of the radiator, as well as an A/C condenser...
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  #14  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 17:12
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

Something is still amiss. The 4 banger clutch from Napa slowed the heating to 220 but only by a few minutes. A/C is still a no go as it goes to and above 220. Now to think about an electric fan from something. I cannot find the taurus fan anymore. Volvo fans with the curved style blades are non existent. Do the Volvo square blade style work as good?
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  #15  
Old August 2nd, 2020, 17:14
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

So, I am noticing that the electric fan pulls more at idle, based on feeling the front side of radiator/condenser.
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