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Barbed fittings for transmission cooler lines?

that's not the correct fitting, the o-ring seals at the base of the hex on the earls fitting, there is no flare or tube that protrudes into the transmission - it's just a threaded hole.
 
I decided to go all -6 with AN fittings for my system. About to put in order at Summit Racing.

I'm getting one 45° & one 90° end off the adapters on trans, I may run all braided hose to cooler. (haven't decided yet but ordering enough hose) I'm thinking of just running a in pan sensor (Transmission Sender Adapter, Steel, Natural, Male 1/8 in. NPT to Female 1/8 in. NPT, Kit Part Number: HDA-270) it makes a good pan drain also. Later I may run a inline sensor.
 
I ordered the earls an adapter fittings and 45 deg -6an to 3/8" adapters and o-rings. It looks like Jeg's has their house brand of a lot of the earls fittings. Less expensive for their adapters. I ordered from there because they meow offer free S&H on most items. Price on the Ealr's fittings was comparable to amazon.
 
Bumping this thread for feedback from the guys that have done this mod. Especially with AN fittings. Y'all got any pics of your setups?
 
if my pics arent working anymore its because i had to take my photobucket down for legal reasons.

this thread is archived in the FAQ section as a pdf which includes the original pics though.
 
i looked and cant find it either, damn. well, part numbers are in the thread, its pretty self explanitory. my setup had the cooler mounted where the pass rear window used to be though since it was a offroad only build. they wouldnt help you for routing or anything.
 
sVPrdXr.jpg
 
do like XCM did and buy the caps, it makes it much easier to be able to cap them off, keep them in the glove box for emergencies
 
So I finally got around to finishing up this job and it was a little different than Grimm's so I figured I'd post up the finished product. Ran the lines to a B&M cooler mounted in front of the radiator instead to the rear window like the original post and a few different parts were used. The main difference is a 90* fitting won't work on the feed line coming out of the AW-4 because the dipstick is in the way. I used a 45* fitting to get around this.

photobucket-21295-1335048930667.jpg


For the cooler I ran an Auto meter 4357 trans temp gauge on the feed line right before the cooler. For the sender I used an Earl's bulkhead tee to for the 1/8" NPT temp sender.

photobucket-21121-1335050270713.jpg

photobucket-5355-1335049164000.jpg


Since the sender won''t ground off of the tee because of the rubber lines, I used a 3/8" ring terminal and some 5/16" washers as spacer in between the sender and the tee then grounded to the frame.

Here is a complete parts list, all fittings are from Earl's Store #1(thanks Tom):

2x 9919DFH (14mm to -6 adapter)
2x 176106 n(-6 Viton o-rings)
1x 709167 (-6 90* hose end)
1x 704667 (-6 45* hose end)
3x 165006 (-6 to 3/8" hard line tubing adapter - male)
1x 165106 (-6 to 3/8" hard line tubing adapter - female)
4x 700167 (-6 straight hose end)
1x 980406-1 (bulkhead tee 1/8" female)


So this looks almost exactly like what I want to do. However, what did you use for the fittings in the radiators?

Also, what do you use to get the fitting on the steel lines? I don't have any flairing tools, so if that's what's needed any tool suggestions would be appreciated.
 
the fittings are compression fittings they seal when you screw them onto the steel lines.

not sure on the radiator as we both completely bypassed the internal cooler in favor of an aftermarket one. (Lurch is in my local crew ive seen his setup)
 
Depending on what you get, some use compression fittings. Other's require flare. Your local parts stores should have a kit you can "rent".
 
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Bumping this thread for feedback from the guys that have done this mod. Especially with AN fittings. Y'all got any pics of your setups?

This sort of thing (adaption to AN/JIC fittings and heavy duty hose) is the first thing I do at the first sign of any trouble with my vehicles' fluid power systems (power steering, hydroboost, trans cooler, etc).

Couple notes:
-I use field-rebuildable ends and heavy duty hose (literally what you'd use for forklifts- MASSIVE overkill)

-I use JIC fittings.. They're identical to AN fittings, except are made of steel. I use yellow zinc plated fittings if available, as yellow zinc is more corrosion-resistant than clear or silver zinc coatings. JIC fittings will take the same or more pressure than AN, seal just as well if not better, and can take more ham-handed assembly (ie, too much assembly torque) than AN.

AN are great- if you're building an aircraft, or a tank. This is a truck, we're not using too many of them and can stand a couple 10 pounds or so difference in weight for the superior durability and ease of use.

I agree hardline can be superior, but all I know is this- I burned up three transmissions due to stress fractures in hardlines. I went to the HD hydraulic hose and I've not had a single problem since.

Great source for fittings is discounthydraulichoses.com

I'm about to address this issue on the wife's ZJ, as I just noticed today there's some weeping around the discos. HATE those things, been meaning to get rid of them for years.

While you're at this, work in a magnefilter inline filter, if not a fullflow and bypass filter on the return line. They should be the last items on the line before return to the trans, BTW- especially if you've ever had a trans problem.

Put the temp sensor in the pan. You want to monitor the temperature of the TRANSMISSION, not the lines. It's better to monitor the temp of the fluid in the pan as it gives you a better idea of the state the transmission is being subject to.
 
I'm looking to put barbed fittings into the transmission so I can run hose directly off of the trans without using the quick disconnects, anyone know of a part number? I've been searching for the last hour and all I can find is threads on cutting the stock lines with a tube cutter and attaching the hose there. That is NOT what I want to do. I want to replace the fittings in the transmission.
There's a new item out, Parker 68H8-6-M114 Port Adapter, that will screw into the trans ports and has a barb type connector on the end.

This is an old post, but I'm hoping this info will help someone in the future...
 
There's a new item out, Parker 68H8-6-M114 Port Adapter, that will screw into the trans ports and has a barb type connector on the end.

This is an old post, but I'm hoping this info will help someone in the future...

Thank you, it will... Me!
 
There's a new item out, Parker 68H8-6-M114 Port Adapter, that will screw into the trans ports and has a barb type connector on the end.

I want one but the listed part number doesn't show up when Goggled.
Do you have a link to a supplier?
 
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