Basic Tech Question...Thread Cleaning

Technically I suppose it would be a question about cleaning bolt holes, but whatever you call it I need to get the gunk and threadlocker out of my AW-4 housing so I can get the adapter back on it.

I've never had to clean (or at least haven't tried to clean) threads out before but in this case I think I want to get the crap out of there before bolting it together again. The thing is, I have no idea how.

What tools/brands would y'all recommend? I'd like to keep this cheap if possible but am not averse to adding another usable tool to my collection.

there are tools called thread cleaners that arent taps, but they actualy clean out and help re-form the threads.

most every time i need something like this however, i use a normal tap (because i dont yet have thread cleaners)

hopefully 5-90 will chime in, he knows more about these tools...

For external threads, a 60* "thread file" is universal and will clean any bolt. You can also get "thread pitch files" - they have about 8 basic pitches on a square stick.

Or, you can call up Summit or Jeg's, and order yourself a set of "thread chasers." The difference between thread chasers and taps & dies is simple - thread chasers aren't designed to cut, and therefore aren't as hard or as sharp as thread cutting tools. You can also get thread chaser sets for internal and external threads, which allows you to have everything in one place. They're also easier to use.

Fastener companies (like Fastenal) and Machine Shop/MRO suppliers (like MSC Direct) also tend to have these things lying about. It's not necessary to spend a boatload of money on these - but the metric ones tend to be a little more expensive than the SAE/Inch variety.

If you're confident you can use a tap - but there's a significant risk of cutting a cross-thread.

Another useful little trick, if you need one in a hurry, is to take a bolt and cut two or three flutes in it with a cut-off wheel (make them at least 1/16" wide.) Run the bolt down the hole, and pull it frequently to clean the flutes. Advantage? It will also "bottom" blind holes, and you can probably do it with stuff you have around (I typically use Grade 5 bolts for this, since I can groove them quicker. I also use a Dremel with a HD cut-off wheel, and two flutes is fine for anything under 3/8" or 10m/m. This is probably the ONLY thing I use cheap bolts for - everything else is stainless, SAE Grade 8, brass, or at least Property Class 9.9 (metric/ISO.))

You might also find it useful to keep rifle brushes (phosphor bronze) and cleaning rods around in various sizes - it's amazing how often stuff like that comes in handy in the shop. Buy your brushes in bulk from MidwayUSA (www.midwayusa.com.)

5-90

I´ve got a set of inside thread chasers (german metric) neat stuff, they look like a thread cutter but have about 1/4 as many cutters and are designed to use on a slow speed drill and/or a battery drill. Good design, they are almost impossible to get cross threaded, just the thing for cleaning out rusty thread holes. I also have a set of external, that don't work nearly as well.
Thread files are your friend.
On aluminum I use rifle brushes to clean out the residue, on steel or cast I use round steel brushes.
Over here SAE replacements, can be hard to come by. So I've gotten good at saving what I got.
I rarley try to get all the Loc Tite out of the hole, Loc Tite bonds to Loc Tite pretty well, I just clean out the loose stuff. There is a Loc Tite solvent (remover) around, but I´ve rarley seen any on the shelves. I think it's for disolving, the old yellow, won't come out in this lifetime Loc Tite.

8Mud said:

I rarley try to get all the Loc Tite out of the hole, Loc Tite bonds to Loc Tite pretty well, I just clean out the loose stuff. There is a Loc Tite solvent (remover) around, but I´ve rarley seen any on the shelves. I think it's for disolving, the old yellow, won't come out in this lifetime Loc Tite.

Click to expand...

That (yellow stuff) is, of course, what I have in this tranny. I pulled the adapter off the rear to replace the seal and give it a general cleaning; of course the rear adapter encloses the rear of the tranny so I need to be careful about not getting debris in the pan while I'm doing this.

Thanks for the fast replies, I've got some more work to do in the morning.

Qtips and cleaner works for me, if a bolt has a nasty spot on it I may take and run it against a wire wheel or chase it. I've also used brass brushes as in gun cleaning brushes. I usually end up running a bolt in the hole a few times and 'feeling' how it goes in. I'm cautious as I don't want to mess up the threads so it takes me a bit longer than a pro who does this all the time.

I second 5-90's home made flutes. For applications where you don't need to do any significant recutting of the threads, just cleaning out gunk and maybe restoring a bit of damage, this is a cheap and effective way to go, especially if you don't anticipate needing the same tap size many times again, or if you need it in a hurry when new tools aren't available (the ten-o'clock on sunday night and I'm heading for Georgia tomorrow syndrome).

For common thread sizes if you can't find a proper chaser you can use a tap, but it helps to get a "bottoming" tap or to cut part of the end off a regular one. You'll get deeper into the hole, and it also helps prevent accidental cross-threading. This is a good use for old, dull taps, but make sure you put them someplace where you can remember which is which.

I haven't looked recently, but you used to be able to get round hole-cleaning brushes at the auto parts store. A little more durable than gun cleaning brushes. If the hole is open at the end this is a good way to do it.

If the hole is blind, don't forget to blow the crud out when you're done.