Frame Stiffies. 10 gauge, or 3/16?

About to start a new build, and want to do full frame stiffeners on this one. I'm also planning on putting a hybrid cage in it that will tie into 2x6 rockers that will tie into the uni-rails. If I wasn't caging it I'd go 3/16 no questions asked, but being that I plan on caging it as well I'm thinking just 10 gauge to save on weight, and not to mention cost.

I plan on using a T&M Metal Fab http://https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=XJUSCK and adding their rear bumper tie-in crossmember. I may also add their front as well.

given the weight of the xj, the added weight of the stronger stiffeners is insignificant. Get the thicker material, it is a stiffeners for goodness sake, why build it flimsy? You want them stiffeners to fold when they slide on a rock?

What's a stiffener weigh? maybe 40 lbs for a 3/16 inch type? a 1/8 inch one will weigh one third less, a savings of a big huge 13 lbs each. 26 lbs for two. Is 26 lbs less weight worth having less stiff stiffeners? Is 26 lbs saved worth big dents in the stiffeners thanks to rock sliding?

You may think otherwise, but I say no, even a fifty pound weight penalty is worth having the better stiffener. All that labor to install a half arsed thin product seems silly to me.

My take is if you are building a Street XJ or an Off-road. Even then I'd probably go with 3/16th. That is what I went with on my 'Street' or on Highway XJ. I went with Hooligan rear, IRO center and Ruffstuff front. On my next build, which is On Road Off Road, I am going IRO rear, and Hooligan Center and Front. I do have an IRO rear of 10 ga. I will get a 3/16 though.
As for IRO vs Hooligan, its minor details and possibly cost. Cost is Hooligan $750 shipped. I think IRO is $560 plus shipping. Check on that though. The IRO rear might be a bit better as they have a filler piece at a bend section. The Hooligan center is a bit better as it wraps around the back side. The Front, I went with Hooligan as it has a removeable section if going with short arms or long arms. I will be going with long arms on the next build. Ironman 4X4 if that matters.
I do have the T&M inner frame stiffeners on the Road XJ. I will also have them on the Off-road one, and the rear plate. I have a Boostwerks hidden winch or Comp Mount, which will be the same as the Hooligan or T&M front stiffener. Also, front and rear off-road bumper will stiffen the frames too.
I went with stiffeners on the on road one as some rodent built a nest in the rear frame rails. They were rusted on the bottom. Then I couldn't leave well enough alone. Also, I dealt with Death Wobble due to a cracked front frame.

Edit: I also have some curvy roads to travel in WV. That and dodging Logging Trucks. I have enough problems with assorted vehicles from Motorcycles, Hondas, Volvos, Pickups wanting to be an XJ Hood Ornament.

Agree with the idea of going thicker. I stiffened my frame with the 3/16” kit and it is a total game changer. No more creaks and pops, even when towing my 2500lb popup camper over rough terrain. Before the stiffeners it would sound like a gunfight with all the pops towing that thing. Drastically reduced body roll as well. When it comes time to prep the “frame” I used a blow torch to burn off all the rust proofing material, it worked way better that a wire wheel. The thicker material will require a bit more skill to weld to the paper thin uni body so be sure to take your time and really fine tune the welder settings.
The sooner you do this the better, once that unibody starts to go it is much more difficult to maintain the vehicle. Windows break, doors won’t open and close properly etc.

I'm a fan of 3/16s as well... Also prep prep prep. I do have to admit I swapped.030 solid for .030 flux core when doing my stiffys... Seemed like it help cut through the small amount of nasty left on the body. A thick coat of bed liner hides the crap welds anyways

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Did you run shielding gas with the flux core.
I almost enjoyed welding my 3link crossmember to the frame compared to flux core. I run norco 9 gas with 035.

Go 1/4" plate every where I can for stiffners and brackets

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

3/16 at a minimum

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Evan03 said:

Did you run shielding gas with the flux core.
I almost enjoyed welding my 3link crossmember to the frame compared to flux core. I run norco 9 gas with 035.

Go 1/4" plate every where I can for stiffners and brackets

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Nope all I've ever used is inner shield (and solid of course). I would like to try dual shield on the next set of stiffeners though

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

If the goal is to stiffen the frame you’ll want thicker. I’m doing 3/16 Ruffstuff ones right now. Sucks welding them to thin sheet metal when you blow through. Just go slow.

cleaned it well, used weld thru primer, solid wire, ArCO2 gas, welded nicely.

3/16 for the center section since you'll belly it on rocks a lot. The front and rear sides of the frame rail, I don't think you'd see a huge difference either way.

Rockwood said:

3/16 for the center section since you'll belly it on rocks a lot. The front and rear sides of the frame rail, I don't think you'd see a huge difference either way.

Click to expand...

On the Front, it adds strength around the gear box. Yes, I've had a frame break there. Death Wobble.

75SV1 said:

On the Front, it adds strength around the gear box. Yes, I've had a frame break there. Death Wobble.

Click to expand...

After adding stiffeners?

Steering area definitely needs additional bracing on the bottom to resist shear loads from the steering and track bar, as well as bracing across to the other side of the chassis to box the area in.

But, most of the frame stiffeners I've seen don't do anything for the bottom of the "frame" where the sway bar mounts back to the motor mount. I added some much-needed 1/8" steel on mine there, as well as welding thicker sleeving inside the rails for the steering box bolts. Zero issues since locked on 35s and long arms, with lots of rocks and high-speed desert running.

So, as far as the kits go, 10g is more than enough for the vertical surface of the rails up front. Adding more steel on a single side doesn't yield a huge amount of additional rigidity, and since it's highly unlikely you'll scrap them across a rock, just added weight/cost/difficulty of welding for not a huge benefit.

Mine was on the stock channels. I am on 32's on that build. I used Ruffstuff fronts (3/16) on my present build. The XJ frame is know to crack around the steering box. Also, mine had an Ironman Steering brace on at the time. It did have some front damage when I bought it. Still, no Wheeling with it till 2021 Winterfest.

Just my opinion:

Front: 10 gauge or 3/16", either is ok.

Middle: 3/16"

Rear: 10 gauge preferred but even 1/8" is fine.