hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
I want to know what the MINIMUM tire size I can effectively get away with, with a D60. I've heard a minimum of 35's but I want to get some more info.
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MINIMUM tire size for a D60?
- Thread starter hot_rod_hooligans
- Start date
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Minimum of 35's. 
Even then you won't like it if the diff isn't shaved.
Even then you won't like it if the diff isn't shaved.
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
I may do that anyway, but is there any down side to shaving the diff?
baseballneal86
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, MD
hot_rod_hooligans said:
It might leak if you don't get it sealed up well.
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
durability issues?
ZacSquatch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fairbanks, AK
Not if you weld the bottum back up with 1/4" or more plate... I've seen some thick Ish get patched in there, should be much stronger than stock if you do it right.
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
Goatman said:Minimum of 35's.
...and a maximum of not more than that, if you're going to run stock shafts...the rear 30-spliners are the same size as D44 shafts.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
vetteboy said:
Who would do that?
30 spline full float 60's don't even count. If you're going to do a D60 it has to be a custom semi-floater or a full floater with the spindles hogged out for custom 35 spline shafts. If anyone wants a rear D60, it has to be built. The only exception is that rare semi-float c-clip D60 with 35 spline shafts, but not many of those around.
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
Goatman said:Who would do that?
Usually the same people who 'upgrade' to a front 44 and keep the stock shafts.
At least the 30-spline full-float rear shafts are an easy trail fix and pretty easy to find in junkyards. It's usually not a 'day-ender' as long as you assume it's going to happen at some point.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
vetteboy said:Usually the same people who 'upgrade' to a front 44 and keep the stock shafts.
:laugh:
I like that.
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
Ok, so I need to run 35 spline D60's, I know TeraFlex has one but they run $4,500, with 4.56's and an ARB
So my options are to
A)find "that rare semi-float c-clip D60 with 35 spline shafts"
B)shell out the $4,500 for the TeraFlex
C)have one custom built?
any idea the general costs of A) or C)?
So my options are to
A)find "that rare semi-float c-clip D60 with 35 spline shafts"
B)shell out the $4,500 for the TeraFlex
C)have one custom built?
any idea the general costs of A) or C)?
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ktm racer 419
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ROW DIALIN
build one, get a housing the width you want, a 35 spline locker/spool/ of choice, gears of choice, and order some 35 spline shafts.
i built mine for a little over a grand.
i built mine for a little over a grand.
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
ktm racer 419 said:
So no real custom work? Is it really as easy as buying 35 spline locker/shafts/and hubs?
Russ Pottenger
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Covina, California
Spring perch, lower shock mount, E brake cable, Driveshaft, Done
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
ktm racer 419 said:
Care to elaborate??
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
hot_rod_hooligans said:
No, it's not that easy. Some custom work needs to be done.
I guess there is the rare full float 60 that has D70 like spindles that are big enough to accept the 35 spline axles, but that is speculation on my part.
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
no real work or no it's not that easy?Goatman said:
- Location
- Lafayette, CA
hot_rod_hooligans said:
Goatman said:
Now I know a 60 with alloy shafts and 35 splines are very nice, but at what point do you really need that? Are the 30 spline stock shafts that easy to break? Or is that just the same thing as the stock shafts on the 44 idea?
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
Thanks, I think he went back and edited his response.
I only want to buy/build 1 set of axles, and a d30/8.25 just won't cut it when I move to 35's.
When recipiant of said Dana60's will one day be built to something like this:Starboard M said:
I only want to buy/build 1 set of axles, and a d30/8.25 just won't cut it when I move to 35's.
ktm racer 419 said:
I will on my work in progress (* denotes parts listed that are still to be bought):Goatman said:
- Rear '79 Ford D60 - Free
- Blue Torch Fab Truss/Cover/4 link mounts - $350
- Blue Torch Fab Coilover mounts - $20 (deal from someone didn't use them)
- Bore Spindles to 1.630 for 35-spline shafts- $55 + Time (My Writeup)
- *Dutchman 35-spline FF shafts - $295
- *Disc Brakes - $290 (non-ebrake)
- *35-spline Spool - $115
- *Yukon 5.38s - $170
- *Master Bearing/Install Kit - $110
Total: $1405 (ouch first time I added it... I won't be adding the cost/parts list for my front D60!). Subtract/Deduct the BTF & 4-link stuff and you're at about a grand but you'll need spring perches and shock mounts.
As mentioned... not really. Read my D60 spindle boring writeup for an easy (yet time consuming) way to fix the spindle size issue. Yet you'll still have to weld new mounts, set up gears, etc.hot_rod_hooligans said:
Starboard M said:
Exactly the answer I was going to give. I'm planning on 39.5s, could the stock 30spline FF shafts have worked? Maybe and I'm sure some have. But why keep them when I'll be spending money on a spool (or others might need a carrier) only to stay 30spline and need the 35spline version later? For the extra money I spend now, I won't be doing it again later... and hopefully won't worry about it when the skinny pedal gets pushed.hot_rod_hooligans said:
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