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New IRO 4.5" Spring Pack + Add-a-Leaf?

NOTNSUV

You Guys ROCK!
Location
Spring Creek, NV
Got new 4.5" leaf springs from IRO and the add a leaf to go with (total 8). Having not done this (AAL) before...

Might it be easiest to install the spring pack on the XJ then add the leaf in it's appropriate position? Thinking mounted up would give a more solid 'platform' to do the work. I might or not have another pair of hands.

Tips or tricks welcome.

UPS showed up with one leaf pack and the AALs today and show the other pack arriving tomorrow. All shipped together. Odd stuff they do sometimes.

Thanks.
 
I don't have any experience with IRO but a AAL will totally make them useless. If you must, installing them off the car is the easiest.
 
These AAL are from IRO and an option with the leaf pack that fit between 3rd and 4th leaf making it 8 instead of 7. Not just a stub added to the bottom of the pack or such.
That seems like a full/complete pack with an extra leaf rather than piecemeal AAL, no?

https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/iro-spring-add-a-leaf.html

Please elaborate.
 
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Do these leafs need to be squared up/aligned?
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AAL
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From IRO ........
Specifically designed to work optimally with the IRO 3.5" packs to acheive a slightly taller stance and even better load capacity. Expect 1-1.5" lift when adding these to your IRO leaf packs. Included with the new leaf packs are new center pins for easy reassembly!

That means the spring rate will increase thus making the spring less "flexy".
 
From IRO ........
Specifically designed to work optimally with the IRO 3.5" packs to acheive a slightly taller stance and even better load capacity. Expect 1-1.5" lift when adding these to your IRO leaf packs. Included with the new leaf packs are new center pins for easy reassembly!

That means the spring rate will increase thus making the spring less "flexy".

Yeah, I spoke with IRO before making this decision and gave them a list of the junk I have on/in the rear of the XJ. He suggested the AAL might be the ticket.

JCR bumper - spare tire, high lift, 2 RotoPacs.
ARB compressor
Gas tank skid.
Recovery gear - lots. We do quite a few recoveries with our group, and on a moment's notice.
Tools: Sawzall, bottle jack, chainsaw sometimes, impact, hand tools.
Tire chains some of the time.
Fluids
Cooler

All this stuff is back there whenever I hit the trail. I'd estimate at least 100#, maybe closer to 200, just for cargo. And I prefer it all in the back, behind a net, to keep it off my head. My current OME springs seems a bit squishy, possibly due to over doing it with a missing bumpstop.
Then, if things go well, I'll be loading at least half an elk or a muley back there now and then, and we're allowed off-road to recover game. Add a couple passengers - in front of the axle, tho'.

I suppose I can install w/o AAL, see how it does, then decide if I want to add or subtract later.

It was "useless" that got my attention. Always appreciate feedback, tho'.

Hit me back please.
 
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Lotta load.
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A better description would have been "defeats the purpose". We spend a lot of money getting a good flexy suspension at any given height, the problem is how to do it. At 5.5" the only possible way which I have contemplated many times over 18yrs with my RE1462's would be to try some Deavers.
 
A better description would have been "defeats the purpose". We spend a lot of money getting a good flexy suspension at any given height, the problem is how to do it. At 5.5" the only possible way which I have contemplated many times over 18yrs with my RE1462's would be to try some Deavers.

Considered Deavers as well. I'll just have to see how this goes. These IRO are 2" longer than OEM so will also see where shackle angle ends up and the actual lift I get. I do little or no rockin' and nothing drastic - Moab and Rubicon are not on my bucket list. It's a trail rig.
And yes, I can go roundy-round on this stuff but also expect this to be my last attempt before they pull my license :roflmao:
 
It's all good, but ride is ride. The Deavers kill 2 birds w/ 1 stone. I already installed the SRB's with the possible intention of going with some Deavers and had been throwing around the idea of polyurethane bushings and greasable bolts for my RE rubber bushings. That's not as easy as it sounds but the Deavers use poly bushings already.
 
I suppose I can install w/o AAL, see how it does, then decide if I want to add or subtract later.

this would be my suggestion... if you need to add an AAL to a new spring pack, you bought the wrong spring.

fully loaded with gear and 20 gallons of fuel, the pounds start to add up. your best bet is to set ride height with the vehicle loaded or (if unloaded) with a little bit of forward rake.

then if you decide you still need the AAL, go for it. its a simple job with a couple C clamps and hand tools. but ive never really seen anyone express a need for one with a brand new leaf pack. you arent loaded unreasonably. even with hundreds of pounds of tools/spares in the back of mine i never felt the need for more spring. sure, you can feel the weight bias when extremely off camber or go fast (dunes), but 99% of the time load carrying shouldnt be an issue.

deavers wont carry a load any better or worse. what makes them special is their end wrapping and their progressive rate.
 
I would install the leaf packs first without the AAL. If you decide its too soft, then the AALs can be added with the leaf pack still on the Jeep.

Whether you do it on or off the Jeep, you'll want to get a pair of wood working clamps with at least 4 inches of opening range.

Put the clamps on the leaf pack, remove the joining pin, and then loosen and remove the wood working clamps. Some leave may want to fall down. Don't loose track of ordering or orientation. You could add a zip tie or string loosely around the leaves before loosening the clamps.

I've done this with the leaf pack on and off my XJ, and it was easy either way. If you do it on the XJ, you'll just need to be sure to be able to drop the axle far enough out of the way to be able to remove the pin.

Do you have wedges to set the pinion angle?
 
It's all good, but ride is ride. The Deavers kill 2 birds w/ 1 stone. I already installed the SRB's with the possible intention of going with some Deavers and had been throwing around the idea of polyurethane bushings and greasable bolts for my RE rubber bushings. That's not as easy as it sounds but the Deavers use poly bushings already.

The new IRO have poly bushings, I picked up greaseable bolts, and these springs have the 'military' ends. I'm going to run the extended shackles to start and if necessary go to SRB. I have some in hand but not the no-lift variety so if/when I do it I'll probably bite the bullet and get Stinky's.
 
this would be my suggestion... if you need to add an AAL to a new spring pack, you bought the wrong spring.

fully loaded with gear and 20 gallons of fuel, the pounds start to add up. your best bet is to set ride height with the vehicle loaded or (if unloaded) with a little bit of forward rake.

then if you decide you still need the AAL, go for it. its a simple job with a couple C clamps and hand tools. but ive never really seen anyone express a need for one with a brand new leaf pack. you arent loaded unreasonably. even with hundreds of pounds of tools/spares in the back of mine i never felt the need for more spring. sure, you can feel the weight bias when extremely off camber or go fast (dunes), but 99% of the time load carrying shouldnt be an issue.

deavers wont carry a load any better or worse. what makes them special is their end wrapping and their progressive rate.

All good stuff fellas.

I don't know whether the IRO are progressive; it's doubtful or they probably would state that in the product description. But they do have the double "military" end wrap.
 
I would install the leaf packs first without the AAL. If you decide its too soft, then the AALs can be added with the leaf pack still on the Jeep.

Whether you do it on or off the Jeep, you'll want to get a pair of wood working clamps with at least 4 inches of opening range.

Put the clamps on the leaf pack, remove the joining pin, and then loosen and remove the wood working clamps. Some leave may want to fall down. Don't loose track of ordering or orientation. You could add a zip tie or string loosely around the leaves before loosening the clamps.

I've done this with the leaf pack on and off my XJ, and it was easy either way. If you do it on the XJ, you'll just need to be sure to be able to drop the axle far enough out of the way to be able to remove the pin.

Do you have wedges to set the pinion angle?

Yup, new plan.. springs alone w/o AAL. KISS.

Wedges: No, I don't have any in hand. But, I'm going from 3.5" (actual, unloaded) to 4.5" lift and will measure lift after new springs to verify actual. Currently there are wedges in there, 3 or 4* if I remember (which I don't), and hoping the 1" added lift will not matter as far as pinion angle. Have never had any vibration or other issues at any speed. I guess I should measure that before and after as well.
I've done that on my muscle car, not the XJ, and the only way I remember is to get the measurement off the face of pinion seal.. correct? If there's a way to get it without dropping the driveline I'm all for it.. call me lazy. Another reference point maybe? I don't suppose measuring the driveshaft angle is accurate? Wouldn't kill me to check my u-joints closely, I suppose.

Really appreciate all the insight guys.
 
There are some attachment points on the C8.25 diff housing that create a flat surface parallel to the pinion shaft. Do you have a magnetic angle finder? Those are handy for this kind of measurement.

For a pint of reference, I believe that mine have 2.5 deg wedges, and I have about 3 deg between the pinion and drive shaft which is a very reasonable value.
 
There are some attachment points on the C8.25 diff housing that create a flat surface parallel to the pinion shaft. Do you have a magnetic angle finder? Those are handy for this kind of measurement.

For a pint of reference, I believe that mine have 2.5 deg wedges, and I have about 3 deg between the pinion and drive shaft which is a very reasonable value.

Magnetic angle finder: Yes
Will have a look see for a flat spot for pinion equivalent.
Then just stick it to the bottom of the driveshaft, record and subtract?


Thanks.
 
Straight edge on u-joint surfaces @ 16*. Driveshaft at 13.5*. 2.5* pinion. Make ANY sense?
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