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Just made some repairs on the new XJ

Viktor

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PNW
I recently bought an 1988 XJ with 4.0 and automatic transmission. There were some things that didnt work at all or very well when I bought the rig. This is just you basic fyi for others that might come along the same issues.

1) The headlamp switch didnt work very well when it came to the dash lamps. I opened the dash up and removed the switch. One thing I didnt expect was the switch is completely open and not a sealed unit. I ohm'd it out and then removed the rheostat. I made the repairs to the rheostat as it was open at the post. Then I tested it out and installed it. I also replaced all the lamps that were burnt out. Walla it works now. I have dash lights and can dim them if I choose.

2) The switch that controlls the shifting pattern of the automatic transmission was not working at all. I tried the old school way of cleaning the switch contacts by moving the switch back and forth and seeing if they had some corrosion on them. Didnt work so I removed the switch and opened it up. Cleaned everything by hand and tested it. Installed the switch and the damm thing works great. I test drove it and there is a big difference now in the shofting patterns between power and comfort settings.

3) Clock didnt work. I removed and it replaced the lamp and cleaned it up. Works now.

4) Back window defrost.. same issue with the switch that I had with the one above.. it just needed to be cleaned by hand.

5) Would not shift into 4x4. First off I am not sure if the guy ever used the 4x4. I pulled up on the lever and the dam thing was stuck. I had to exercise it before it would move. I had to do this for each position. Then I took her for a test drive and it wouldnt work at first... I kepted working on it and then it finally shifted into parttime and then fulltime and then 4lo. I had to keep at it a few more times. I shifts fine now.

6) Cancer stick lighter wouldnt work... no biggie cause I dont smoke... I removed it and will be replacing it with a power outlet from a newer VW jetta. I also plan on installing a few others.

7) Oil pressure gauge wasnt working.... Easy fix.. the plug was not making good contact with all the grime on it.

8) The lamp under the hood wasnt working. The bulb was loose. Works now.


Thats about it... most of the items where just simple fixes due to lack of proper PM's. I also spent another two hours cleaning the interior out cause I dont think this guy ever did a thurough cleaning. Dirt and dust all over the place. He bought the rig back in 1988 with about 4200 miles on it. Nice thing is he replaced the radiator with a nice metal unit as well as the alternator and a few other items. The paint's clear coat is all phawked up, which is normal. It just needs a paint job and then I need to track down the oil leaks.
 
Last edited:
Viktor said:
I recently bought an 1988 XJ with 4.0 and automatic transmission. There were some things that didnt work at all or very well when I bought the rig. This is just you basic fyi for others that might come along the same issues.

1) The headlamp switch didnt work very well when it came to the dash lamps. I opened the dash up and removed the switch. One thing I didnt expect was the switch is completely open and not a sealed unit. I ohm'd it out and then removed the rheostat. I made the repairs to the rheostat as it was open at the post. Then I tested it out and installed it. I also replaced all the lamps that were burnt out. Walla it works now. I have dash lights and can dim them if I choose.

2) The switch that controlls the shifting pattern of the automatic transmission was not working at all. I tried the old school way of cleaning the switch contacts by moving the switch back and forth and seeing if they had some corrosion on them. Didnt work so I removed the switch and opened it up. Cleaned everything by hand and tested it. Installed the switch and the damm thing works great. I test drove it and there is a big difference now in the shofting patterns between power and comfort settings.

3) Clock didnt work. I removed and it replaced the lamp and cleaned it up. Works now.

4) Back window defrost.. same issue with the switch that I had with the one above.. it just needed to be cleaned by hand.

5) Would not shift into 4x4. First off I am not sure if the guy ever used the 4x4. I pulled up on the lever and the dam thing was stuck. I had to exercise it before it would move. I had to do this for each position. Then I took her for a test drive and it wouldnt work at first... I kepted working on it and then it finally shifted into parttime and then fulltime and then 4lo. I had to keep at it a few more times. I shifts fine now.

6) Cancer stick lighter wouldnt work... no biggie cause I dont smoke... I removed it and will be replacing it with a power outlet from a newer VW jetta. I also plan on installing a few others.

7) Oil pressure gauge wasnt working.... Easy fix.. the plug was not making good contact with all the grime on it.

8) The lamp under the hood wasnt working. The bulb was loose. Works now.


Thats about it... most of the items where just simple fixes due to lack of proper PM's. I also spent another two hours cleaning the interior out cause I dont think this guy ever did a thurough cleaning. Dirt and dust all over the place. He bought the rig back in 1988 with about 4200 miles on it. Nice thing is he replaced the radiator with a nice metal unit as well as the alternator and a few other items. The paint's clear coat is all phawked up, which is normal. It just needs a paint job and then I need to track down the oil leaks.


You need to lube that linkage. I came across a few TJ's that had never been in 4wd and the linkages were stuck. couple of squirts with liquid wrench usually freed em up. I picked up a couple of cans of mobil-1 spray oil and use that to shoot the areas that my TC's rear seal leak seep does not reach on the XJ :)
 
As a fellow owner of an 88 XJ let me pass on some of my lessons learned on oil leaks.

VALVE COVER
There are 15 bolts which hold on the cover and over time they loosen up. I recommend you pull off the valve cover, clean it up, and reinstall using a gasket. I used the fel pro gasket and used indian head cement to hold the gasket in place. It took me the second time to figure out using the cement. You get the cement at any parts store.

Remember oil flows down hill so if you have oil on the valve cover look for the source of the leak. I had mine all cleaned up and the oil filler was leaking. I got a new cap for less than $3 at the dealer, also seen the Stand in the parts store for $3. Stant makes that butterscotch cap.

CCV system, if you are leaking around the fornt hose or rear hose then you will want to spend the $100 at the dealer and get the whole new Crankcase Vent (CCV) system hoses. Replacing them solves vacuum leaks and the oil in the air filter problem.

OIL FILTER MOUNT
This piece has 3 or rings in it and over time the o rings just give up. If you find youself changing these O rings I highyly suggest you do it when you change the motor mount on that side of the engine. You have to remove the oil filter mount to get the through bolt out of the motor mount.

OIL PAN & REAR MAIN SEALS
A leaky valve cover will look like a rear main leak on the ground. If you find you have a rear main leak then you may want to take the effort to install a new rear main seal. Fel Pro makes a 2 lip seal in addition to a 1 lip seal. Get the 2 lip seal. The leak is caused by the lip wearing a groove into the crankshaft, no repair like a sleeve you can put on the shaft.

With the oil pan off to change the rear main seal use the dealer 1 piece oil pan seal. It solves a lot of problems! No need to splice 4 pieces together.


All of these problems have had dozens of posts on here, just do a search. I also recommend you use a torque wrench for the valve cover and oil pan bolts. It took me 3 rounds at full torque and waiting 10 min between each round for the valve cover to hold torque.
 
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