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Solderless Elec. connectors

bigalpha

bigalpha

Moderator
Location
Tucson, AZ
Previously, I've gotten the kits from HF or Wal-Mart. Not sure if the connectors are industry standard or if there are "good" brands. What kind do you get?
 
You mean as in butt connectors and wire taps? I use whatever I find at the closest store. I did buy a 50 pack of 20-22 AWG butt connectors at Walmart before for like $5 and they work well. You can't go wrong with 3M though. I also use Posi-taps.
 
Yeah, butt connectors and the like.

I wasn't sure if some brands are just better quality than others.
 
bigalpha said:
Previously, I've gotten the kits from HF or Wal-Mart. Not sure if the connectors are industry standard or if there are "good" brands. What kind do you get?
Click to expand...

I don't buy cheap electrics - fuses, connectors, wire, whatever.

Gardner-Bender is what I typically use from the local hardware store - readily available, tinned copper, and good stuff. Been using it for years.

When I have the dosh ahead, I'm going to restock a full kit using 3M or something like that from one of my distributors - but I'm not there yet. However, is there any interest in a sort of "jeeper's kit?" Hit me backchannel!

I also recall one of the Diesel fori somewhere investigating the El Cheap-O Harbour Freight fuse kits - something about a ATC2 passing some 30A for a couple of hours, before they turned it off (because it didn't blow!) I won't use anything but Buss or Littlefuse for small fuses - although I've found that most brands of high-current fuse tend to be rather consistent in blowing at or near their rated current (I'm cranky about things like that...)

I'm still evaluating various high-current (>50A) circuit breakers for suitability underhood. I haven't gotten any I can recommend yet...

I'm very picky about electrical. Electrical fires SUCK!
 
5-90 said:
I'm still evaluating various high-current (>50A) circuit breakers for suitability underhood. I haven't gotten any I can recommend yet...
Click to expand...

Kind of afraid to ask, but I assume you've tried the Bussmann circuit breakers. What was wrong with them?

 
fyrfytr1717 said:
Kind of afraid to ask, but I assume you've tried the Bussmann circuit breakers. What was wrong with them?

Click to expand...

I have not - but they are something I'd probably take sight unseen. Cooper Bussman makes good stuff!

I'll have to check to see which brands my suppliers carry again. The flipside of the problem is that my price on most of these breakers isn't going to be very cheap, so I'm going to have to put them out for a decent price myself. However, it could end up being cheaper than the ANL fuses I currently offer, if someone is having electrical issues...
 
Bussman for fuses/holders, GB for fully insulated terminals, and Dorman/Conduct-tite for the crimp/heatshrink terminals. I've also used the Dorman spade/taps, and they were decent. I've not had any real problems with any of these brands if they were properly installed.
 
Thanks. Since X-mas is coming up, I'm going to receive a pair of self-adjusting wire strippers (This one). Figured I should get some decent electrical connectors as well.
 
When wiring under the hood, I tend to crimp, solder, then seal. If you skip the solder, at least seal up the connections well with a good grade of electrical tape or better yet, liquid electrical tape.
 
I need to get some of the liquid electrical tape. I've seen that a lot of people use it.

None of the fuses I've gotten are cheapos.
 
I am a fan of the glue/sealant filled heatshrink crimp terminals. If you use those, make sure you use a good quality crimper (lever or hydraulic) not one of those 7 dollar sheetmetal plier "mash-em-flat" style crimpers from the auto parts store or radio shack.
 
kastein said:
I am a fan of the glue/sealant filled heatshrink crimp terminals. If you use those, make sure you use a good quality crimper (lever or hydraulic) not one of those 7 dollar sheetmetal plier "mash-em-flat" style crimpers from the auto parts store or radio shack.
Click to expand...

I had one of those sheetmetal types. Talk about a serious POS. I have a different one, but it's still the 'mash-em-flat' designs.
 
I have an old Klein for uninsulated terminals (which I rarely use), a cheapish GB (GS-70), and a Channellock (No 909) crimper. I actually use the GB the most for crimping, but that's all it's good for. It's a pain in close quarters though, as the anvils are on the handle side, instead of in the jaws. I got the other two because of that, but they tend to tear up the insulation, and insulated terminals are almost all I use. Also, none of them will handle anything larger than 10AWG, which may or may not be a problem for you. I would probably just go with solder-on terminals for larger wire, or buy one of those hammer crimp tools. For no more wiring than I do, I can't justify the cost of the commercial quality tools.
 
I love the Channel-Lock No 909 Crimpers for crimping and using as dikes on zipties also depending on the gauge of wire I can strip the insulation with them. I keep a set of 10AWG-18AWG yellow handled Klein strippers handy as well. As far as the butt connectors go I used to work at a Car Audio store and left with a lot of surplus. I have ran out since and just go back and pay a parts/shop supply charge to the shop. I would recommend just asking your local audio shop and you might get a pretty good deal.
 
The more electrical I do the more i believe that you should just solder it and be done with it. I have a few wire taps in my Jeep but those just make things super simple.
 
FlexdXJ said:
The more electrical I do the more i believe that you should just solder it and be done with it. I have a few wire taps in my Jeep but those just make things super simple.
Click to expand...

As long as you make a good clean hot solder than I totally agree, most people will have less of a chance missing up with crimped connections. With that said, my work requires solder and that is what I have all my techs do.
 
X2.

If you can solder well - solder it.

If you can't - learn to, and then do it, or use solderless crimp terminals and a good quality crimper.

There is nothing quite as lousy as a bad solder joint.
 
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