Copper heater pipe broke! Help!

I just came back in after trying to replace all the coolant/heater hoses on the 90xj. Problem is that while removing the hose that connects to the upper copper pipe that goes into the car through the firewall broke. I now have less than an inch sticking out and the rest is in to hose. Do you have any sugestions on how I should proceed?

The same thing happened while removing the ac system, I guess Jeep cheaped out on the copper :/

or it's just 23 years old and likely hadn't had the coolant changed regularly. Corrosion sucks.

The copper pipe you're talking about is the heater core barb. If you can't get a hose on it that will stay and not leak, you're replacing the heater core.
It's not too bad a deal on the early ones. Be thankful it's not a late model.

Thats more likely

How much work is it to get the core out? Maybe ill just do that aswell while im at it.

I was able to force it on, so glad I dont have to get a new core!

save yer pennies... you'll be swapping it soon enough.

Why do you say that?

If the pipe was rotten the core is too. It's an afternoon job

we carry replacements here:
http://www.completecherokee.com/prod-353.htm

(we're a Supporting Vendor)

Yeah, if the barb broke... it is only a matter of time. The tubes inside the core are thinner than the feed lines are.

Having pulled an XJ dash before, I was able to do my first late-model heater core in 4 hours flat. Betting I could do the next one in 3 hours. Budget an entire weekend if you haven't done one before, mostly so you have time for a frantic junkyard run if you break a brittle plastic piece halfway through.

Oh, the studs that hold the HEVAC box to the firewall are a bastard. Clean the threads off well before you attempt to unscrew the nuts and use penetrating lube. They like to back the other end of the stud (coarse self tapping threads into the plastic HEVAC box) out of the plastic instead of unscrewing the nut. There are a few of them, on a late model there are 5-6, two are behind the engine slightly to the passenger side. You'll want an 11mm flex head gearwrench to get at them, it makes it much easier.

This is all late model specific, it may also apply to an early model but I am not sure.

While you have it out, toss a new AC core in there too. It's in the same housing, so might as well, since you'll be a few hours into the project anyways.

Here's a write up on it. It's for early models...up to 90 or better.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=931690

yeah, the early dash you can do without taking the whole thing apart.

late model dash brings the full suck.