Nick
NAXJA Member #690
- Location
- Sudbury, MA
I have rocker panel rot that I can stick my finger through on the bottom of the panel. What are the options I have for fixing this and about how much do they cost? Thanks for your help
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Rocker Panel Rot
- Thread starter Nick
- Start date
George2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
On my 87, the rockers were paper thin all over, with all sizes of holes... I washed out the rockers from back to front with a pressure washer, then dried them out with compressed air. There'll be a bit of moisture left behind, but that's alright.
Go get two cans (maybe 3) of the quick-expanding spray insulation foam. Shove the tube in a hole located near and end of the rocker, if possible. DO NOT get the "maximum expanding" stuff like I did at first, because the extra expansion will blow out any weak area welds, and balloon the paper thin areas of the rocker. THAT was a mess to fix!
With the "normal" expansion stuff, the excess will just "poopie" out of the other open holes, and harden up. It can be sliced flush after it cures. Read the can carefully- it will probably mention that this form of foam actually cures FASTER, in the presence of moisture, so it helps the foam cure, AND stick better to the remaining metal it's saving!
From here, it's normal sheetmetal repair work- metal patches, and drilled rivet holes with pop rivets- then a covering of at least one layer of fiberglass cloth. If you're just making an "state inspection" repair, then just the fiberglass will pass. THEN, go shopping for some GOOD quality rubberized spray undercoating, if she's a "keeper".
Both rockers cost about $30 (tops) to repair,and they've lasted 3 salty New England winters, without any more attention. A friend at a local garage had been trying to teach his mechanics how to do small repairs for folks just trying to keep their daily drivers street legal on the cheap, and brought them out to take a peek at my old girl. Quick and dirty, and durable with the metal patches.
Good Luck!
Go get two cans (maybe 3) of the quick-expanding spray insulation foam. Shove the tube in a hole located near and end of the rocker, if possible. DO NOT get the "maximum expanding" stuff like I did at first, because the extra expansion will blow out any weak area welds, and balloon the paper thin areas of the rocker. THAT was a mess to fix!
With the "normal" expansion stuff, the excess will just "poopie" out of the other open holes, and harden up. It can be sliced flush after it cures. Read the can carefully- it will probably mention that this form of foam actually cures FASTER, in the presence of moisture, so it helps the foam cure, AND stick better to the remaining metal it's saving!
From here, it's normal sheetmetal repair work- metal patches, and drilled rivet holes with pop rivets- then a covering of at least one layer of fiberglass cloth. If you're just making an "state inspection" repair, then just the fiberglass will pass. THEN, go shopping for some GOOD quality rubberized spray undercoating, if she's a "keeper".
Both rockers cost about $30 (tops) to repair,and they've lasted 3 salty New England winters, without any more attention. A friend at a local garage had been trying to teach his mechanics how to do small repairs for folks just trying to keep their daily drivers street legal on the cheap, and brought them out to take a peek at my old girl. Quick and dirty, and durable with the metal patches.
Good Luck!
theschwarz1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Central Pennsylvania
So it just "Poopies" out!?!? Thats great! 
assgas:
assgas:
- Location
- Terra Firma
JC Whitney sells replacement rockers for the XJ. They can be welded on the professional way, or pop riveted right over the old ones.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
Two other options if you weld:
You can buy new rocker panels (chinese, of course) for about 40 bucks each, and weld them in. This is going to be my spring project soon, I hope (if spring ever really gets here!). My rocker panels are much too far gone for foam. The replacements are quite complete, and require either that you cut them and the old panels along a line of your choosing, or break spot welds pretty deep into the structure.
I've heard of other people just removing the entire old panel and replacing it with a piece of pipe or thick tubing. Done right this would give you a strong enough rail to jack the vehicle by.
I've used foam as George did on some rot holes in my old Mercedes. It really works pretty well, especially for hollow incaccessible areas that are impossible to patch normally, or just not worth doing otherwise. for inner fenders, and other places that aren't finished, you don't need patches at all. Just trim the foam and paint right over it. But needless to say there's no structural benefit to this, and there's also the possibility that eventually the moisture and salt trapped by the foam will eat the structure out more than if there were nothing at all there. If you clean it up first, the foam will do a pretty good job of keeping subsequent slush and moisture out, so it's probably a net gain compared to open rust holes, but it won't stop the cancer from spreading. Remember too that if you do foam it, your options for other types of repair will be limited. The foam is very tenacious, and flammable, so don't foam it if you are considering welding it at some future date.
Look for foam sales at places like Home Depot or Loew's. They often put out aisle displays of it at reduced prices. If possible make sure there are a couple of other potential projects lined up, such as gaps in your house, because once you start a can, you should use it all in one session.
You can buy new rocker panels (chinese, of course) for about 40 bucks each, and weld them in. This is going to be my spring project soon, I hope (if spring ever really gets here!). My rocker panels are much too far gone for foam. The replacements are quite complete, and require either that you cut them and the old panels along a line of your choosing, or break spot welds pretty deep into the structure.
I've heard of other people just removing the entire old panel and replacing it with a piece of pipe or thick tubing. Done right this would give you a strong enough rail to jack the vehicle by.
I've used foam as George did on some rot holes in my old Mercedes. It really works pretty well, especially for hollow incaccessible areas that are impossible to patch normally, or just not worth doing otherwise. for inner fenders, and other places that aren't finished, you don't need patches at all. Just trim the foam and paint right over it. But needless to say there's no structural benefit to this, and there's also the possibility that eventually the moisture and salt trapped by the foam will eat the structure out more than if there were nothing at all there. If you clean it up first, the foam will do a pretty good job of keeping subsequent slush and moisture out, so it's probably a net gain compared to open rust holes, but it won't stop the cancer from spreading. Remember too that if you do foam it, your options for other types of repair will be limited. The foam is very tenacious, and flammable, so don't foam it if you are considering welding it at some future date.
Look for foam sales at places like Home Depot or Loew's. They often put out aisle displays of it at reduced prices. If possible make sure there are a couple of other potential projects lined up, such as gaps in your house, because once you start a can, you should use it all in one session.
George2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
Or maybe... buy the replacement rockers from JCW, rivet or weld them in- THEN fill them in with the foam, preemptively?
Sorry- I wasn't trying to be overly-affermitive or contrary, but I'm really sold on the filler. It's a noise killer, AND it keeps the open (new OR old) exposed metal from ever seeing corrosive action. I guess it sounds a little "ghetto", but you'd be amazed how little new metal rusts when it can't ever be exposed to air. I fully agree that the only correct fix is repacement of the metal- but my offering buys some cheap time if $ is an issue.
I've been busy treating and filling in all the open pockets in all the sheetmetal in my '91, because I really want to KEEP that one! A few minutes at the local car wash, watching the crud rinse out of places you never thought you HAD places makes one wonder how good some of the factory rustproofing might have been done. My 91' had the maxi-Ziebart treatment when brand new, but is still starting to show spots where the sprayguns couldn't reach.
Sorry- I wasn't trying to be overly-affermitive or contrary, but I'm really sold on the filler. It's a noise killer, AND it keeps the open (new OR old) exposed metal from ever seeing corrosive action. I guess it sounds a little "ghetto", but you'd be amazed how little new metal rusts when it can't ever be exposed to air. I fully agree that the only correct fix is repacement of the metal- but my offering buys some cheap time if $ is an issue.
I've been busy treating and filling in all the open pockets in all the sheetmetal in my '91, because I really want to KEEP that one! A few minutes at the local car wash, watching the crud rinse out of places you never thought you HAD places makes one wonder how good some of the factory rustproofing might have been done. My 91' had the maxi-Ziebart treatment when brand new, but is still starting to show spots where the sprayguns couldn't reach.
I have put foam in different beaters over the years..looks good for a while then...well as Neil Young said best "rust never sleeps"
I have welded rockers over rusted areas, after I carved out the worst and applied some cheapie spray can primer and paint...better yet
I have cut out factory rockers and welded a proper replacement panel also I like to spray some kind of rust converter in the hard to get to places and then fill them up with epoxy primer $$ but worth it...they key as George 2 said it to seal off the air(moisture) and then oil everything when done and yearly after that...
Personally I would not recomend spray foam...I would cut out affected areas and make some cool rock sliders like mathew currie suggested...
seems to me that my mig welder has paid for itself time and time and time again..oh and my 4 1/2" grinder too
the key is knowing when to stop cutting rust out...deciding what is ok to leave, to rust convert and paint, and to just replace..without going too crazy
Keeping in mind obviously that the rockers are structural components of the xj...
not that the foam is a horrible thing..it has its place but what if you want to keep your ride..and decide to have the rockers welded in proper down the road...the foam is a hazzard and a HUGE obstacle to proper welding and preservation
just my .02
from a guy who has been there
perhaps you could hook up with some members near you and have a welding party/ barbeque...
great way to get stuff done, learn stuff and meet some cool jeepers...
rent a mig and have a go! if nobody has one ...it is not as hard as it seems..hell once you start welding you may never stop...you may carry on to bumpers and cages and whoooo anything...
perhaps if this is your daily driver you better go get a beater to drive for a while cause ...like all good buildups...and the notorious building bug..it all starts with the "ONE" rust spot...next you have 35's and a stroker waiting to go in...
morgoon
I have welded rockers over rusted areas, after I carved out the worst and applied some cheapie spray can primer and paint...better yet
I have cut out factory rockers and welded a proper replacement panel also I like to spray some kind of rust converter in the hard to get to places and then fill them up with epoxy primer $$ but worth it...they key as George 2 said it to seal off the air(moisture) and then oil everything when done and yearly after that...
Personally I would not recomend spray foam...I would cut out affected areas and make some cool rock sliders like mathew currie suggested...
seems to me that my mig welder has paid for itself time and time and time again..oh and my 4 1/2" grinder too
the key is knowing when to stop cutting rust out...deciding what is ok to leave, to rust convert and paint, and to just replace..without going too crazy
Keeping in mind obviously that the rockers are structural components of the xj...
not that the foam is a horrible thing..it has its place but what if you want to keep your ride..and decide to have the rockers welded in proper down the road...the foam is a hazzard and a HUGE obstacle to proper welding and preservation
just my .02
from a guy who has been there
perhaps you could hook up with some members near you and have a welding party/ barbeque...
great way to get stuff done, learn stuff and meet some cool jeepers...
rent a mig and have a go! if nobody has one ...it is not as hard as it seems..hell once you start welding you may never stop...you may carry on to bumpers and cages and whoooo anything...
perhaps if this is your daily driver you better go get a beater to drive for a while cause ...like all good buildups...and the notorious building bug..it all starts with the "ONE" rust spot...next you have 35's and a stroker waiting to go in...
morgoon
- Location
- Terra Firma
George2 said:
The problem is you have to be careful what kind of foam you buy. There are two kinds, and the can doesn't always tell you what you're buying. Open cell foam is like a sponge. It takes in water (or atmospheric moisture) and holds it. Inside a rocker, it'll trap water and moisture against the metal, thereby ensuring that you'll need either more extensive repairs very soon, or an entire new vehicle not long after.
Closed cell foam is more expensive, not as easy to find, and does not absorb moisture. If your heart is set on going the foam route, be sure you get closed cell foam.
