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Door check???

R

RCP Phx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix,Az
Has anybody else had any issues with them? I've gone thru 2 chinese ones so I bought the 85$ Mopar one to try!
 
Yeah, the second hand ones have sucked but even the Mopar ones aren't lasting as long. The metal plate behind the rubber bends and fails. I've thought about modifying it by cutting a thicker plate and reassembling.
 
On mine the roller pins fell out and then bent the arms. So far the new installed is acting ok.
 
I needed to replace the front driver's side door check.
I really figured aftermarket would be OK for this.
But bit the bullet and bought a Mopar one anyway.
After reading this glad I did.
Always thought my front passenger door was fine.
Until I did the driver's side and saw what a properly operating door check works like. LOL.
I read somewhere to slather some grease on it so I did.
Did you still have the nylon washers in there?
 
My mopar one does not contain any nylon washers, where would they go?
 
RCP Phx said:
My mopar one does not contain any nylon washers, where would they go?
Click to expand...

When I did my driver's side there were no nylon washers. When I went to do the passengers side this nylon washer fell out. The top one in the picture at this link at Post #90237.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/what-did-you-do-your-cherokee-today-145940/index6016/#post3535015

So I went the hardware store, bought something similar, one at the bottom of that picture, and put 2 on each door check like in the second picture. Even my backs might of had at least one on each pin. Not sure if there was only one at each door, can't remember, and still not even sure how one might have come off the door(s) that did not have one.

Oh and if anybody ever needs to do their back door checks. Team Cherokee has them cheap. Says they are OEM.

https://teamcherokee.com/rear-door-check-assembly-oem-cherokee-1984-2001/
 
That's something I planned on doing along with replacing the body side roll pin (which keeps falling out) with a shoulder bolt and nut.
 
I just looked at my other 2000 which is still using factory check's and it does not have them so I would assume that somebody tried to address the problem with some washers.
 
Interestingly I just had my driver's door check out today because it pressed itself out backwards (my fault) while replacing the body side bracket. The check arm I had in there was a "mopar" but I bought another for a future replacement and they aren't alike. The newer Mopar one is yellow grade-8 style metal while the slightly older one was silver. Possibly different manufacturers or a bogus part? Anyway, the yellower one feels more legit, and I'd never had this problem of the arm backing out when trying to install it.
 
All my chinese ones(that failed) are silver, all my factory Mopar ones are the yellow/gold zinc in color. I did tack weld the roller roll pin as that's where all the others failed at.
 
Saudade said:
That's were I got mine. When my driver door finally failed, I bough the check, bracket and pin. Good as new!!
Click to expand...


Wow, those are wildly different than OEM. Rubber check is near the door rather than where the check bottoms out. Interesting hook to catch when the door is fully open. My guess it that will stop pretty harshly on full open vs original.


"These Are All Factory Original Rear Door Checks." is a flat lie if it's for the full year range.
 
Nope, I'm completely wrong. Re-checked my parts manual and that looks right for the rear. Now that undercuts the idea that you can just pick up a rear door check and swap out the arm and be good as new. That would leave you with that inferior rubber stop and maybe not the right spring ratings for the arm you'd swap in from the front. Rear PN is 55075259AB (for my 98) which looks exactly like what suadade posted.


But in the front arms the rubber stopper is way thicker and lives at the rear of the arm. Takes a much heavier shock when the door is full open than it looks like the rears are expecting.


Now that I understand the part a bit more, Mopar or not, the design flaw on the part is that when the door pulls all the way out, the outer plate is thicker expecting the check to take the force of the door opening all the way. That one is never bent on mine as they start to fail. Instead the inner plate against the rubber is usually bent right at the arm, implying it's too thin to take the force of opening the door.
 
Last edited:
asymptonic said:
<snip> Rear PN is 55075259AB (for my 98) which looks exactly like what suadade posted.
Click to expand...

Credit where credit is due, Ralph77 posted the link, I simply quoted him.

Yes the front and rear are different but it's hard to tell if the base itself is similar enough. Swapping arms implies the old arm and bumper are still good.

No nylon washers in mine though.
 
Asymptonic is correct about the rubber bumper, I do not see it as being very easy to swap over though(if even possible).
 
Here's what I came up with for my frame side pins. I'll try some out a little later.
showthread.php
 
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