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completely stumped

jcarrera

NAXJA Forum User
Location
socal
Hello again, a bit of background this time on my xj dreams in hopes of finding some much needed help.

I recently hauled an almost free to me 1992 xj laredo 4x4 home. The engine had thrown a rod straight through the block and the owner decided to let it go for $300 bucks. I figured I could track down a used engine and have a nice little around town putter for less than 1k but I've ran into some issues.

I have installed a used engine with claimed milage of 115k with the same case numbers as my old one. I removed the oil pan to freshen up the gasket and was impressed by how clean everything appears to be, the oil pump is absolutely immaculate and there is some stamped marks on each of the pistons which correspond to markings written on the outside of the case. All this to say, that it had lead me to believe it had been rebuilt until, after installation, I encountered a crank but no start condition.

So far I have:

Rechecked timing; cylinder #1 is at tdc when at 0 on the harmonic balancer mark and the rotor in the distributor sits on the trailing age of post 1. post 1 sits at 5pm

Rechecked fuel Pressure; 35psi at fuel rail Schrader valve after letting the pump run twice and without cranking engine

Rechecked spark; spark verified by grounding to bolt and by test light

Replaced CPS; Such a common cause of no start issues, I could not pass on replacing it just in case despite confirming spark. replaced with autozone brand however and not mopar.

NSS; removed, cleaned and reinstalled without any luck. Back up lights work but no luck in park or in neutral.

Coil; resistance from connection to post at 13.33 and 1.3 between connector posts

Compression; All spark plugs removed, coil and fuel pump disabled, dry test at 5 cranks per cylinder

#1 120
#2 130
#3 120
#4 110
#5 120
#6 110

fuses and relays have all been checked I have unplugged and replugged ECM several times. I do have the headlights and grill off the car now in case i have to pull this engine back out. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 
About the 180 off condition. Can the all the indicator read appropriately and still be off by 180?

The flexplate that came with the engine does not fit onto the bellhousing. it is larger in diameter which also leads me to believe it came from a Grand Cherokee or something other than an Cherokee? Casting numbers on both engines are the same however 53008405. Same head, 7120.

I also reused the old manifold and fuel rail as the "new one" had the different injectors which are not compatible with the old harness.
 
There are 2 TDC's, the only way to check is pull the #1 plug and feel for air at the "compression" stroke.
 
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4″ front crankshaft bolt.

You will see the degree marks on your front cover and you will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out.

While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there’s no pressure, you’re at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.

TDC damper
 
Alright, I went back and rotated the engine by the crankshaft bolt all the way around back to 0 on the balancer. I then rechecked the rotor in the distributor, sure enough, it was pointing in between cylinder 4 and 5. I pulled the dizzy out and reinstalled it to the recommended settings. Cycled the key twice to allow fuel pump to build pressure and prime, cranked and it fired momentarily before cutting off, repeated this a few times with same results. Happy as pigs in you know what at this point, just from hearing actual combustion happening.

I tried shifting to neutral but the shifter was stuck. I had to jiggle the key and the steering wheel quite a bit before it shifted loose. could this be another reason why it wont stay lit?
 
Not to likely, it only impacts(interrupts) the starter motor.
 
I put in a bit of gas in the TB and was able to keep the engine running for 5-10- seconds by feathering the throttle. Tons of smoke and obviously rough running but rewarding none the less. Can I hope this is due to the battery having been disconnected so long and the ECM is learning to tame this beast?
 
MOre likely your injectors have dried out and are stuck. A can of BG44k in the gas should help if you can keep it running for a bit.
 
Make sure to test for spark at an output from the distributor to the plug, may have a rotor issue. Easy enough to find out if it is fuel related. unbolt the injector rail and see if they spray while cranking. If they are and your sync is right on the distributor, then make sure you have the right flexplate. If not more diag to go. 4 things needed to make an engine run and it goes exactly like this...fuel-fire-compression and the most important and over looked is that all these 3 have to be at the right time.
 
one bottle of bg44k and a replacement ECM (488) and still no dice. Will run smooth for a few seconds and will die. if any throttle is applied it sputters, back fires and dies.... cleaned all grounds to bright shiny metal, they might as well be chromed at this point.
 
still 35psi at the fuel rail Schrader valve. Could this be the TPS. it starts idles smooth for 10 15 seconds and then the tach starts to jump it then starts to die. any throttle and it revs back up but its rough and it only gets rougher. I can keep it on for a while running rough but it does not smooth out. im thinking of replacing the whole distributor. Hate to throw more parts at it but dang if I aint frustrated already
 
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