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ever replace a bell crank?

thetinman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Detroit,MI
...finally got my hood open. Bought a new bell crank to replace the rusted one. I see that it is riveted on. Has anyone had experience with replacing these things? Would a standard rivet work? Help!
 
As long as it's the right size. It's just a pop rivet. Make sure you get steel ones.
 
How about some particulars on your jeep? Engine, tranny, YEAR... its the small things man.. its the small things... hahahahahahaha! Never had to deal with their kind before. I reckon as long as its a steel rivet like he said y'ought to be ok
 
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How about some particulars on your jeep? Engine, tranny, YEAR... its the small things man.. its the small things... hahahahahahaha! Never had to deal with their kind before. I reckon as long as its a steel rivet like he said y'ought to be ok

2001 Jeep Cherokee, latches on the corners of the hood, bell crank in the middle.

Since you cant see the holes where the rivets go, I'm not sure what size rivets to use. Hoping someone has replaced one of these things.
 
The 2001 parts guide shows the rivets as M4.8x13.23. That would convert to 3/16th x 1/2"
 
Sorry if i misled. The one I have came from TeamCherokee who state that it fits XJ's from '87 to '01, which, of course, doesn't make it so.

The actual loose clearance for the holes on the one I have in hand as we speak is 15/64ths or 6 mm.
 
Only thing I can really add is make sure to use a drill bit depth setting collar... otherwise the damn drill bit will plunge through when it finishes cutting the rivet, and put a nice bump or hole with cracked paint on the surface of your hood :doh:

don't ask :smsoap:

I ended up replacing the rivets with self tapping metal screws once I stopped cursing and put the new bellcrank on.
 
they work fine, heck mine is holding with just standard grade 3 / 5 lag bolts (which did strip the threads a bit, but held fine and home depot was closed so I couldn't get proper self tappers.) Just make sure you measure the space between the bottom of the hood panel and the mounting spot and don't use a screw that's too long... same reason as the drill bit depth collar. In my case it no longer mattered much.
 
Only thing I can really add is make sure to use a drill bit depth setting collar... otherwise the damn drill bit will plunge through when it finishes cutting the rivet, and put a nice bump or hole with cracked paint on the surface of your hood :doh:

don't ask :smsoap:

I ended up replacing the rivets with self tapping metal screws once I stopped cursing and put the new bellcrank on.

Yup, I got a couple dimples from that too!
 
Only thing I can really add is make sure to use a drill bit depth setting collar... otherwise the damn drill bit will plunge through when it finishes cutting the rivet, and put a nice bump or hole with cracked paint on the surface of your hood

The trick is to use a drill bit that roughly twice the diameter of the rivet. That way, once the tip cuts through the head and reached the shank portion, the head simply pops off. It's like using a countersink.
 
My trick now is to use a dremel with a grinding/cutting wheel instead, and simply mill the head down till it pops off. I can remove pop rivets and spot welds now (only where one of the sheets of metal is being junked) with nary a mark left on anything.

It just took a mint, factory painted, matched-my-MJ hood which I had just paid $75 for the day before gaining a divot, cracked paint and now rust streaks to learn this :doh:
 
it's that cursed thing that connects the hood release cable to the steel rod that actuates (or does not actuate, as the case may be) the hood latches.
 
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