• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

POWER Steering

I never was able to completely remove the air bubbles with the WJ pump. If its whining its got air. I finally said screw it and went back to a stock XJ pump with an under drive pulley with the YJ gearbox and an inline cooler.

End result is still huge gains over stock setup.
 
anyone ever use the transmission cooler built into the radiator for cooling power steering fluid? i have a manual trans so it's unused anyways.
 
The circuit for the auto trans is more like a "regulator" then a "cooler". If the trans is cooler then the coolant, the coolant heats it up (and vice versa). Im not sure how hot the power steering fluid usually gets, but if you route it through the radiator plan on it being about the same temp as the engine all the time. This could be useful though, if you piggyback another aux cooler after the radiator. The power steering fluid would get to temp faster (not sure if it even matters for P.S.) and can help maintain a constant temperature
 
This is my setup.

389258_3029915201660_159426608_n.jpg


I use dedicated coolers

The tranny cooler is a Tru-cool #[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1] 4921-1[/SIZE][/FONT]. [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]12 plate 30,000 GVW / 34,000 BTUs
The PS cooler is a Hayden #1010 power steering cooler.
On top of them now is a 12" 1400CFM Auxillary fan

The PS cooler i just tapped into the low pressure line have it run from the gearbox to the top pipe of the cooler then out to the reservoir. I am also running Royal Purple fluid.

Tranny temps never went above 180 even when i was hauling up a steep grade out of lockout. and I am very happy with the results of the steering system
[/SIZE][/FONT]
 
I never was able to completely remove the air bubbles with the WJ pump. If its whining its got air. I finally said screw it and went back to a stock XJ pump with an under drive pulley with the YJ gearbox and an inline cooler.

End result is still huge gains over stock setup.

I bet you were using the small port on the side of the WJ box for the return. You have to use the one on the bottom to make it quiet.
 
so i just finished my wj pump swap. i found a few things out the hard way so i thought i'd share.
when going to Napa, the part number is 811159 for just the pump. 8163159 with the tank. if it ends in 158 for either one, i believe it is the incorrect pump. I ordered a 2004 pump and it was the same as a pre 2001, so it was not set up for the hydo fan and was probably the same flow as an xj pump. the high pressure fitting was actually the same as the xj one, and the tank fit exactly the same.
i returned that and got a 2002 pump, which is the same part number as a 2001. it had the larger high pressure fitting and also had a different diameter port for the tank, which does NOT work with an xj tank. i did not buy the pump with the tank, so i decided to make the xj tank work by sleeving it with a piece of plastic. If you do not have a lathe and machining experience, i would not do it this way. get the pump that comes with the wj tank instead. mine works just fine, but it wasnt the easiest route.
Also, the wj pump does not have threaded mounting holes like my stock 91 xj pump. you can do several things here, you can do a threaded insert like a helicoil, or you can run longer bolts through for the upper and lower bolts. the bolts i used were 5/16-18 4" long grade 8's with a nut and washer on each end.
the middle bolt causes a bit of an issue, you do not have room to run a bolt through due to it hitting the aluminum bracket. you have a few options here, you can leave it out (which is what i did because i'm lazy), you can do a threaded insert on the front face of the pump like i mentioned earlier, or you can drill and tap it for a 10mm bolt and drill out the front steel bracket to clear it.
Lastly, i have seen several types of pulleys. To make things easier, use one with the 3 large holes in the front so you can feed the bolts through with the pulley on. makes life wayyy easier.
hope this helps some people.
 
So what did you gain? More power, pressure and what's the cost Dan? Come on you only gave half the needed info, if your going to post your projects be more thorough and stop licking your che che it's perverted!
 
I wish these photos still worked. Sounds like an easy upgrade.

After reading this post i set out to do this swap on my 1990. I bought the reman pump from autozone pn 7145 with the tank. I found that the pumps are the same with the following exceptions: the mounting holes on the Grand's pump are smooth not threaded, the high pressure fitting is different but swapable from the old pump and the hole that the tank mounts is not the same between the pumps. You must use the GC tank. This swap can be done by swapping your high pressure fitting from the old pump to the Grand pump. You will have to find and use mouting bolts that run all the way through the front mounting bracket, through the pump and out the back of the mounting bracket. Also you will have to use the Grand's pulley because it has holes to run the mounting bolts through. If you use the old pulley you will have to pull the pulley every time you want to remove and install the pump. You will also have to use different high pressure hose do to the tank differences and don't forget to plug the second return to the tank. Hope this helps someone..... blaise
1990 pump
100_1968.jpg

2001 Grand Cherokee v-8 pump
100_1969.jpg

1990 High pressure fitting
100_1970.jpg

1990 pump mounting hole
100_1971.jpg

2001 GC mounting hole
100_1973.jpg

1990 pulley
100_1974.jpg

2001 GC pulley
5.jpg
 
Back
Top