This is music to my ears.
My plan is to shorten a stock WJ tie rod
I too was wondering about this when I was pulling the knuckles. The WJ tie rod is bent to push it out from the diff cover, so that would solve a lot of my problems.
This is music to my ears.
My plan is to shorten a stock WJ tie rod
Please cite your source.I read the WJ ends do not hold up well on the drag links.
I am guessing there is nothing there for the tap to cut: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/78STEER.htmlQuestion. If you have to buy taps to chase the threads on a welded bung, why not just tap the dom?
Please cite your source.
I just spent cubic dollars for a MOPAR, RHD rod end, instead of a $30 Crown part. I would like to review the information that you reference.
Please cite your source.
I just spent cubic dollars for a MOPAR, RHD rod end, instead of a $30 Crown part. I would like to review the information that you reference.
So my questions are:
1. What is the disadvantage to a bent tie rod?
2. Do hiems perform that much better than TREs for the tie rod?
3. Would offset hiems work?
4. What is the strength of 7075 aluminum compared to 1.5" X .25" Wall DOM Tube?
Question. If you have to buy taps to chase the threads on a welded bung, why not just tap the dom?
I can't recall the source, but somewhere I have gathered that the cheap aftermarket TREs are junk. My bet is that the cheap parts are the ones prone to failure and the OEM unobtanium parts will serve you just fine.
Hmm, I never thought about the bar rotating, but that does make sense.Without reading everybody elses responses, here are my thoughts.
1. There are 2, one is that when you're driving over bumpy terrain the weight of the tie rod forward of the pivots will allow it to flop up and down. Sometimes this can be a quite noticeable clunking. It will also tend to sit flopped down from gravity. Not the end of the world, but annoys some people. The other is that whenever you bend metal you weaken it. In order for the bend to stay in the material you have to exceed it's elastic limit, the point at which it will not return to its original shape. If you're using strong material this again is not a huge issue and it's not a common failure point, but it's worth mentioning.
4. I think someone already answered this pretty well, but I'd say comparable in overall strength. The big selling point for Aluminum is the amount it can bend and return to straight. Here's a video I made a while back to show how much it can take.
Here's what I just finished up...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ci0Xw-quvdEuCs3MrUd-zISNmSJEHPMpeOLC7r6ARhk/edit?usp=sharing
What I ordered is to the left side in yellow, everything else was other options/ ideas..
I'm running 15" wheels, have lock to lock steering and everything clears!
I finally had time to digest your list and compare it to mine. A few questions:
1. What did you do for your tracbar?
2. What size DOM did you use for your drag link?
JKS over axle bracket, rusty's frame side bracket. The track bar is 1.5"-.25" DOM with 3/4 heims, misalignment's machined to fit the brackets.
Drag link is also 1.5"-.25" DOM.
Nice job of assembling a parts list, with links and all. Well done.
The left and right hand taps to chase the threads after welding in the tube adapter bungs might be worth considering. Rumor has it that welding those in might be detrimental to the condition of the threads.
Drill bit for the knuckles to accommodate the new steering hardware?
Fresh set of bolts for the unit bearings? I have seen some mention of those being designed for single use, but it doesn't seem that most folks fret over those.
Any plans for connecting a steering stabilizer? This is one of those details I have not seen well covered in a WJ brake conversion.
I assume you are already running 16" or larger wheels.
Those are the only things I can think of that might bear considering if you haven't already considered them.