stalls, sputters then dies

So I got everything started and it runs fine (been working on it for 3 weeks)

And now when I accelerate or slowing down and a couple times it just died from me driving straight. Well basically it sputters and then dies or if I turn into a driveway to turn around it just dies. But the weird thing is that sometimes it will not die so I'm kinda confused.

Specs are:
88 XJ
4.0L
AW4
242
Auto

Thanks for any help
Steve

1. Always need to review tuneup hardware status. That involves plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter.

2. LOAD TEST your battery. Stalling is a very common symptom of a marginal battery. And yes, you can have a batter strong enough to start the engine, but marginal enough to give the engine management system fits and give you the symptoms you describe. Any parts store will do this for you for free.

Start there.

Let me list all of the things I've replaced SO FAR lol

Cps
Knock sensor
Map sensor
Tranny
X-case
Dampner pulley
PS pump
Water pump
Valve cover gasket
Oil pan gasket
Plugs & wires
Distributor cap and rotor
Idler and ac pulley
Serpentine belt
Alternator
Ignition coil

Now I replaced the alternator today and the voltage is better but it still shows around 12A. Could it be as simple as the battery? I mean the battery has been sitting for over 8 months in the jeep before I bought it.

Ok, first thing to do on a Renix is hit all of the grounds--replace the POS braided strap from the rear of the head to the firewall, that is the one and only unibody ground. Use a 4 or 2 gauge cable instead of the braided strap. Next, there are CRITICAL grounds at the dipstick tube--ignition control module (ICM), the engine control unit (ECU), the o2 sensor, and others. And of course the main ground cable from the battery's negative terminal to the block. Clean all of the grounds to BARE METAL. Treat the metal with an anti-corrosive agent (any paint store/dept), and make the connections TIGHT.

Check your engine mounts and the bolts that hold the brackets to the block. Check the transmission mount. If things get moving around too much under torque or from unibody flex the harness may get pulled and lead to open/short circuits.

Run your hand along the crank sensor harness checking for bad spots.

There was a TSB for relocating the crank sensor harness to give it a direct path to the ECU to eliminate similar problems.

The C101 connector, right above the brake booster, is a continuous sore spot. Pull it apart, clean all the gunk out, fill it with dielectric grease, and put it back together.

Ill check it out and post back if it fixed it or not.


Anything else you or anybody can think of to check out?

DSteveXJ said:

Could it be as simple as the battery? I mean the battery has been sitting for over 8 months in the jeep before I bought it.

Click to expand...

Yes. Stalling is a very common symptom with a marginal battery. This forum and others are littered with threads on this.

Could it be something else? Yes. Good advice from Joe for grounds, etc.

Load testing that battery should be on your to-do list though. It's easy and it's free.

that was happing to my girls 2 door 88

found it was the 2 small wires from the alt had rubbed a hole in the jacket and was touching the "frame" (right next to the alt). That was making the link wires off the starter relay hot and melt there jacket, then short. making the jeep cut out and die.

its a long shot but it happen to me, might be the same.

Ill check that out also when I'm out there next. I also hear that it could be the fuel pump line not being completely on so now its just a bunch of trouble shooting.

Keep the ideas comin guys!!

Well I think we might have figured out the problem of the stalling intermittently... fuel pump is probably bad. The pressure is at 29-31 at idle and when you unplug the vacuum line at the regulator it jumps up to 39 BUUT when I hit the gas and bring the engine up to 2K in park, the pressure drops down to 20-25.

I've also replaced the battery, fuel pump ballast (ceramic block), IAC and the TPS.

So would the pressure of the gas that I mentioned above be a root cause of the stalling issues and where if I punch the gas it'll "hiccup" a bit??

You have an issue.

Is the vacuum hooked up when you get the drop to 20-25 psi or not? Just curious, as the pressure shouldn't go below the minimum spec, and when you rev the engine up the the vacuum drops off and the fuel psi should be increasing.

Yes the vacuum line is plugged back in when it drops to 20-25 when I'm on the gas. I have no idea what's wrong but its kind of aggravating.

Hey guys new to the forums and new to Cherokees... I have purchased this jeep from DSteveXJ and would like to continue the problem solving ideas...
Just a quick recap on what has been changed...
Cps
Knock sensor
Map sensor
Tranny
X-case
Dampner pulley
PS pump
Water pump
Valve cover gasket
Oil pan gasket
Plugs & wires
Distributor cap and rotor
Idler and ac pulley
Serpentine belt
Alternator
Ignition coil
Battery

It runs and sound really good but when you put it in gear and try to give it some gas it stalls, you have to barely press on the gas for it to stay alive and it intermittently dies still... Most of the time anyways...
I will be double checking the grounds today and the Dizzy, any more info is welcome... :helpme:

The issue is in the fuel pressure.

First, on the driver's side fenderwell there should be a white ceramic ballast resistor with two wires attached. Remove them from the ballast resistor and jumper them together with a piece of same size wire.

Second, I would replace the fuel filter.

Third, throw a fuel pressure gauge back on it and see if the low pressure problem has been mitigated. If not, pull the pump and inspect the rubber lines from the top of the pump to the tank flange, they have probably rotted if they haven't been replaced in the past. You are likely going to have to replace the pump, I recommend Bosch, not the Airtex or Carter.

Hey Joe, Ty for the info... I went through all the wiring today and checked all the grounds, I found out that the main chassi ground was not tight and the surfaces were dirty, plus the two grounds that are supposed to be connected to the dipstick on the block were not even hooked up, they were just hanging behind the motor... I hook them up and cleaned all the surfaces and now the problem is gone :woohoo:

Cool, but throw a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if you can replicate those 20-25 psi numbers. If you can, there is an issue that is going to bite your backside.

Good luck.